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AjGriiide to the National 
Parks of America 



COMPILED AND EDITED BY 

EDWARD FRANK ALLEN 

Editor of Travel 



WITH MAPS and 
ILLUSTRATIONS 



ROBERT McBRIDE & COMPANY 
1918 



Copyright, 1915, by 
McBride, Nast & Co. 

Copyright, 1918, by 
Robert McBride & Co. 



Revised edition 
Published June, 1918 

Published May, 1915 



JUN 21 1918 

©CI.A499445 



To 
MY MOTHER 



FOREWORD 

The current admonition, "See America 
First," to say nothing of the paralysis of 
trans-oceanic travel by the European war, has 
awakened many good and patriotic Americans 
to the picturesqueness and historical interest 
of their own land. The slogan does not sug- 
gest, however, the extent of the America that 
is to be "seen" ; and it is well that this is not 
signified by its crafty wording, for the aver- 
age traveler would be disheartened at the 
realization that to see his country exhaustively 
would take the rest of his natural life and 
preclude his ever finding time to cross the 
seas. 

Scenic America is represented largely in 
its national parks, of which there are now 
fifteen, aggregating an area of 9,775 square 
miles. (This does not include the Grand 
Canyon, which is technically a forest reserve, 
but which is nevertheless included in this 
book.) To visit them all is to realize the 
boundless possibilities of this under-exploited 



FOREWORD 

country and to see America in its most typical 
phases. 

You cannot judge a country by its cities 
alone — least of all the United States. New 
York is typical of nothing but itself; San 
Francisco is fast losing its individuality ; New 
Orleans' atmosphere of the past is becoming 
more and more vitiated by progress. And so 
the national parks remain as the greatest and 
most individual recreation grounds that any 
American may visit whether he cross the 
water or not. They combine the lure of the 
outdoors, the appeal of tremendous scenic 
magnificence, the attractions of geological 
and archeological study and the observation 
of wild animal life, and the stimulus of being 
brought face to face with Nature at her best 
and freest. Need America ask odds of Europe 
when comparisons are being made? 

In this compilation I have endeavored to 
supply all necessary information as to what 
each of the parks offers the tourist and the 
various ways of seeing these features to the 
best advantage. All the parks are included 
in this second edition, the most notable addi- 
tions being Rocky Mountain, Mt. McKinley, 



FOREWORD 

Hawaii, and Lassen Volcanic National Parks, 
which have been established comparatively 
recently. In subsequent editions others are 
likely to be added, for at this writing there 
are movements on foot toward making na- 
tional parks of such places as Pike's Peak, 
Colorado, and Mount Baker, Washington, as 
well as the Grand Canyon of Arizona. 

I wish to make acknowledgment for valu- 
able data and maps obtained from bulletins 
issued by the Department of the Interior, and 
to express my gratitude to Messrs. Louis W. 
Hill, H. A. Noble, and W.'R. Mills of St. 
Paul, Minn., to Messrs. George W. Hibbard 
and J. F. Bahl of Seattle, Wash., to Mr. 
Stanley D. Roberts of Chicago, and to Mr! 
Stephen T. Mather, Director of the National 
Park Service, for personal aid in obtaining 
information. E. F. A. 

New York, May, 1918. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I Yellowstone National Park .... i 

II Glacier National Park 74 

III Yosemite National Park in 

IV Rocky Mountain National Park . .146 
V Mount Rainier National Park . . . 168 

VI Sequoia and General Grant National 

Parks 197 

VII Crater Lake National Park .... 209 

VIII Mount McKinley, Hawaii, and Lassen 

Volcanic 219 

IX Mesa Verde National Park .... 228 

X The Hot Springs of Arkansas . . . 244 

XI The Grand Canyon of Arizona . . . 255 

XII The Canadian National Parks . . . 286 

XIII National Parks in Embryo .... 307 

XIV Equipment for the National Park 

Visitor 327 

XV Concerning Park Regulations . . . 330 



THE ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 



Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone Park ... 2 

Tourist Camp on Two Medicine Lake, Glacier 

Park, Mont 84 

Rocky Mountains, Swift Current Pass, Glacier 

Park 118 

On the road in the Mariposa Grove, Yosemite 

Park 124 

El Capitan, Yosemite Valley 138 

Mount Rainier, as seen from Eagle Park, Mount 

Rainier Park 152 

Brule Lake and Roche Miette, Jasper Park . . 264 

MAPS 

Yellowstone Park 24 

Glacier Park 92 

Yosemite Park 132 

Mt. Rainier Park 160 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 

The Yellowstone is the largest and the most 
interesting geologically of all the national 
parks of America. Lest this book be open to 
the charge of partiality, let it be said at the 
beginning tnat it takes first place because it 
is the largest, and that its foremost position 
in geological interest is due to its geysers and 
hot springs. It is situated chiefly in North- 
western Wyoming, but some of it overlaps 
Montana and Idaho. Its area is 2,142,720 
acres, or 3,348 square miles, nearly three times 
as large as the land and water area of the 
State of Rhode Island. 

The tourist season in the Yellowstone lasts 
but three months — from June 25 to Septem- 
ber 15 — a time of year when this region a 
mile or more up in the sky is at its best, and 
when, although there are frosts in each month 
1 



2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

of the twelve, the climate is moderate and the 
flowers bloom in wondrous profusion. 

How to Reach the Park 

The traveler may approach Yellowstone 
Park from either Chicago, on the east, or Seat- 
tle, Tacoma and Portland, on the west, by the 
Northern Pacific Railroad, which reaches the 
Park at Gardiner, Mont. This station is near 
the northern border, being the end of a spur 
that leaves the main line of the railroad at 
Livingston, fifty-four miles to the northeast. 
It is only a stone's throw to the entrance of 
the Park from the station, and but five miles to 
the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. 

From St. Louis, Kansas City, and other 
middle-western and southern points, the Park 
is reached by way of the Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Quincy Railroad. This route brings 
the traveler to Cody, Wyo., from which there 
is a drive of sixty-three miles to the eastern 
entrance of the Park. 

The Union Pacific System reaches an en- 
trance, Yellowstone, on the west, and provides 
a convenient means for travelers from Salt 
Lake City and other western points. 





Haynes Photo, St. Paul. 

Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone Park. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 3 

During the season round-trip tickets are 
issued by the various railroads, and on special 
occasions through tickets over these lines allow 
stopovers in the Park within the time-limit of 
the ticket. This is generally the case during 
large conventions and expositions that draw 
visitors from all parts of the country. 

Accommodations and Transportation — Costs 

The hotels, permanent camps, and trans- 
portation lines operated in the Park are all 
under contract with the Department of the 
Interior, which insures visitors against over- 
charges. There is a specified schedule of 
prices for all ordinary requirements, and the 
authorized rates are well within reason. 

Tourists are advised to arrange in advance 
for their hotel or camp accommodations. 

The Yellowstone Park Hotel Co. maintains 
four large and well appointed hotels in the 
Park. The hotels are located at Mammoth Hot 
Springs, the Upper Geyser Basin, the outlet 
of Yellowstone Lake, and the Grand Canyon 
of the Yellowstone. The advent of automo- 
biles has caused the old Fountain Hotel to be 
closed and the lunch stations discontinued. 



4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The address of the hotel company is Yel- 
lowstone Park, Wyo., from June 15 to Sep- 
tember 15, and Helena, Mont., thereafter.!- 
The authorized rates at the hotels are as fol-f 
lows : 

Rates of the Yellowstone Park Hotel Co. 

HOTEL CHARGES. 

Board and lodging, American plan, regular ac- 
commodations (not including private bath), 
per day, each person $ 6.00 

Board and lodging, including private bath, ac- 
cording to the room's location and number 

of occupants, $7.00 to 10.00 

(It is expressly understood that where 
connecting rooms have access to private 
bath, each room is to be considered as hav- 
ing private bath, unless one or more of the 
rooms are locked off from the bathroom.) 

Meals or lodging, part of a day : 

Lodging 2.od 

Breakfast 1.25 

Lunch 1.2 

Dinner i-5' 

Meals served in rooms, extra, each 50 

The Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. 

operates all transportation lines in the park; 

Its motor-cars are comfortable and admir- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 5 

ably adopted to sight-seeing. The address of 
this company is Yellowstone Park, Wyo., be- 
tween June 15 and September 15; thereafter, 
Helena, Mont. The authorized rates are as 
follows : 
Rates of Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. 

PARK TOUR. 

From any entrance — full park tour, and back 
to the same entrance, or any other en- 
trance $25.00 

Including hotel accommodations 52.00 

On regular park tour cars will be routed over 
top of Mount Washburn, minimum of 5 
passengers, each 2.00 

SIDE TRIPS. 

From Mammoth : 

Terraces and Buffalo Corral $ 1.00 

Gardiner and return 2.00 

From Upper Basin : 

Hurry trips to Geysers 5° 

Black Sand Basin 50 

Lone Star Geyser 1.50 

From Thumb (minimum 5 fares) : 

Snake River and return t 8.00 

Jacksons Lake and return 16.00 

From Canyon : 

Top of Mount Washburn and return 4.00 

Either side of canyon, ., , 1.00 



6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Sulphur Mountain .. ...... 2.50^ 

From Tower Falls (minimum 5 fares) : 

Buffalo Farm and return 5.00 

Cooke City and return 14.00' 

LOCAL FARES. 

Gardiner to — 

Mammoth $1 .001 

Norris 5.0.0] 

Yellowstone 10.50 

Upper Basin 1 1 .00 

Canyon (via Norris) 7.50 

Mammoth to — 

Gardiner i.ooj 

Norris 400! 

Yellowstone 9.501 

Upper Basin 10.001 

Canyon (via Norris) 6.50J 

Yellowstone to Upper Basin 6.00! 

Upper Basin to — 

Yellowstone 6.00J 

Thumb 4-Ooji 

Lake 700 

Canyon (via Lake) 10.50 

Lake to — 

Pahaska 6.00J 

Pahaska and return io.oo£ 

Cody 1250 

Cody and return 22.50 

Canyon 3-5°i: 

Mammoth 11.5a 

I 
i 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 7 

Cody to — 

Pahaska $ 6.50 

Pahaska and return 12.50 

Lake 12.50 

Lake and return . . 22.50 

Canyon 16.00 

Pahaska to — 

Cody . 6.50 

Cody and return 12.50 

Lake 6.00 

Lake and return 10.00 

Canyon 9.50 

Mammoth 17.50 

Canyon to — 

Lake 3-5o 

Pahaska 9-5° 

Cody 16.00 

Yellowstone (via Norris) 8.00 

Tower Falls 4.00 

Mammoth 8.00 

Gardiner 9.00 

Tower Falls to — 

Mammoth 4.00 

Gardiner 5.00 

AUTOMOBILE LIVERY AND GARAGE SERVICE. 

Six-passenger touring cars, by special arrange- 
ment, when available for such service, per 

hour $ 6.00 

Storage, per days 50 

Garage charges uniform throughout the park. 



THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



SADDLE HORSES. 



Per day $ 3-50 1 

First hour i.oaj, 

Each subsequent hour 50 

Guide with horse, per day 5.00 

Yellowstone Park Camping Co. 

The Yellowstone Park Camping Co. main- 
tains six permanent camps in the park. They 
are located at Mammoth Hot Springs, River- 
side near the western entrance, Upper Geyser 
Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon of 
the Yellowstone, and Tower Falls. The ad-[ 
dress of the camping company is Yellowstone L 
Park, Wyo., from June 15 to September 15,1, 
and Livingston, Mont., thereafter. The au- 
thorized rates at the camps are as follows: 

Rates of the Yellowstone Park Camping Co. 

CAMP RATES. 

Five-day tours : Meals and lodging on regu- 
lar five-day trip through the park (in- 
cluding baths, where bathhouses are 

completed) $18.00 

Including transportation 43.00 

Meals and lodging without bath : 

Per week . , 21.00 

Per day 3.25-4.00 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 9 

Lodging per person per day : 

Old-style tent 75 

New-style tent 1 .00-1.50 

Breakfast 75 

Lunch 75 

Dinner 1.00 

Bath, where bathhouses are completed .50 

(Children under 12 years old, one-half of 
above rates.) 

Personally Conducted Camping Parties 

The persons named below are licensed to 
conduct camping parties through the park. 
They do not furnish daily service, but make 
trips on certain dates or special trips as ar- 
ranged. Additional information may be ob- 
tained by addressing the licensees. 

Authorized rates of Howard Eaton, 

[Address, Eatons' Ranch, Wolf, Wye] 
YELLOWSTONE PARK TRIP. 

Definitely planned. 

August 6 to August 26 (21 days). 

Party leaves Ranchester, Wyo., in special car 
August 5. 

Trip starts from Gardiner, Mont., on Northern 
Pacific Railroad. 

Trip ends at Cody, Wyo., on Burlington Railroad. 



io THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Fee $200, payable one-half at start of trip and bal- 
ance at end. 

(Note. — Members of Glacier Park party, taking Yellow- 
stone Park trip, leave Belton, Mont., August 3, arriving at 
Gardiner, August 5.) 

JACKSON HOLE TRIP. 

Plans conditional upon not less than 15 entries. 

Definite word to be given July 31. 

September 1 to September 30 (30 days). 

Party leaves Ranchester, Wyo., August 31. 

Trip starts from Gardiner, Mont, on Northern 
Pacific Railroad. 

Trip ends at Gardiner, Mont., on Northern Pacific 
Railroad. 

Fee $300, payable as follows : Deposit of $100 prior 
to July 31 ; one-half of remainder at start of trip, and 
balance at end. 

Authorised rates of E. C. Brown and Simon Snyder. 

[Address, Valley, Wyo.] 

Regular 10- to 45-day trips, price for each 
member of party, including transporta- 
tion, saddle horse, and board and lodging 
in camp, per day per person $ 8.00 

Authorised rates of Joe Claiise.' 
[Address, Yellowstone, Wyo.] 
Regular 5-day trip, price for each member of 
party, including transportation and board 

and lodging in camp $25.00 

Additional per day for stop-overs at points of 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK n 

interest, for each member of party 2.50 

Extra charge for saddle horses, per day 1.00 

Authorised rates of W. H. Jordan. 

[Address, Cody, Wyo.] 

Regular 14-day trip, price for each member of 
party, including transportation and board 
and lodging in camp, per day $ 5.00 

Additional per day for stop-overs at points of 

interest for each member of party 5.00 

Extra charge for saddle horses per day...... 1.50 

Authorised rates of S. E. and E. J. Larson. 
[Address, Gardiner, Mont.] 

Regular 6-day trip price for each member of 
party, including transportation and board 
and lodging in camp $30.00 

Additional per day for stop-overs at points of 

interest, for each member of party 5.00 

Extra charge for saddle horses, per day 2.00 

i-day trip to Mammoth Hot Springs and 
Golden Gate and vicinity, per person per 
day 5.00 

Authorised rates of H. Mullendore. 

[Address, Cody, Wyo.] 

Regular 14-day trip price for, each member of 
party, including transportation and board 
and lodging in camp, per day $ 5.00 



12 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Additional per day for stop-overs at points of 

interest, for each member of party 5.00 

Extra charge for saddle horses, per day 2.00 

Authorized rates of Oscar O. Roseborough and 
H. P. Grant. 

[Address, Gardiner, Mont.] 

Regular 6-day trip, price for each member of 
party, including transportation and board 
and lodging in camp ; . . $30.00 

Additional per day for stop-overs at points of 

interest, for each member of party 3.00 

7-day trip, via Tower Falls from Canyon, each 

member 35-00 

3-day trip to Grand Canyon and return, from 

Gardiner 20.00 

Authorized rates of B. D. Sheffield. 

[Address, Moran, Wyo.] 

Does not camp inside of the park, but takes tourists 
to hotels while en route to hunting lodge at Moran, 
Wyo., by special arrangement, paying usual hotel 
rates for them. 

Regular trips, price for each member of party, 
including transportation and board and 
lodging at hotels (ordinary accommoda- 
tions), one in party, per day $15.00 

For each member of party, if two in party, 

per day 12.50 

Same, with three or more in party, per day. . . 10.00 
Extra charge for saddle horses, per day 5.00 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 13 

Authorized rates of Bert Stewart and John 
McPherson. 

[Address, Gardiner, Mont.] 

Regular 6-day trips, price for each member of 
party, including transportation and board 

and lodging in camp $30.00 

Additional, per day, for stop-overs at points of 

interest, for each member of party 5.00 

To Cook City via Tower Falls Station and 
Soda Butte : 
Rates for team and driver to Cook City, 

per day 7.50 

Rates for team and driver to Yellowstone, 

per day 7.50 

Short i-day trips from Gardiner to Mammoth 
Hot Springs, Golden Gate, and vicinity: 
Regular trips, one day, price for transpor- 
tation, rig carrying two or three people. 8.00 
For same trip, larger rig, for each passen- 
ger 2.00 

Boat Service on Yellowstone Lake 

The Yellowstone Park Boat Co., under 
contract with the Department, maintains and 
operates power boats and rowboats on Yel- 
lowstone Lake. The service on this lake is 
not a part of the regular transportation of 
the Park and an extra charge is made, as 
shown in the schedule hereafter, by the boat 
company for services rendered by it, Under 



i 4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the regulations of the department no power 
boats are permitted to be operated on this 
lake except those that have passed the inspec- 
tion of the United States Steamboat-Inspec- 
tion Service of the Department of Commerce. 

Rates of the Yellowstone Park Boat Co. 

POWER BOATS. 

Excursions to Southeast Arm of lake, per indi- 
vidual (this trip not made for less than 
$20) $2.00 

33-foot cabin cruiser, with crew, per day 35-Oo 

For two or more days, per day 25.00 

16-foot and 18-foot launches : 

Per day 15.00 

For first hour 5.00 

For each additional hour 2.50 

Over six hours, day rates charged,, 

ROWBOATS. 

Per day $2.00 

Per hour 50 

Oarsmen : 

Per hour 50 

Per day 4.03 

ROWBOATS EQUIPPED WITH MOTORS. 

Per day 7.50 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 15 

First hour 3.00 

Each additional hour 1.25 

Boat rental and services of oarsmen and motor 
boat and attendants' time commences from 
the moment of leaving the dock until return. 

FISHING TACKLE. 

Outfit, consisting of rod, reel, line and landing 

net, per day 50 

Same free to each individual hiring launches. 

Charges may be made for broken rods or 

lost outfit at regular price. 
Flies and fishing accessories sold at regular 

prices, according to quality. 

WHAT TO SEE 

Gardiner, Mont., which is the terminus of a 
branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad di- 
rectly north of the northern boundary of the 
Park, is a convenient entrance for travelers 
from either the east or west. The other en- 
trances all have some distinctive characteristic, 
and are equally interesting. The elevation 
here at the log-built railway station is 5,300 
feet. Facing the station is the huge rock 
arch erected by the Government to designate 
the entrance. An inscription on this monu- 
ment proclaims that the Park is "For the 



i6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

benefit and enjoyment of the people." The 
road in general use is east of the arch, near ' 
the soldier station. All camping parties are 
required to register at each of the soldier 
stations passed in their trip in the Park. 

The road from Gardiner to Mammoth Hot \ 
Springs lies along the Gardiner River, a dis- 
tance of five miles, ascending 800 feet. 

Electric Peak (11,100 feet), the highest 
mountain in the Park, can be seen directly 1 
west of the railroad station at Gardiner, \ 
recognized by its sharp peak and a reddish 
hue. Magnetic disturbances noted by the j J 
first party who took surveying instruments to 1 
its top were the cause of its name. To the } 
east of Electric Peak, and southwest of Gard- I 
iner, is Sepulcher Mountain (9,500 feet), so 
named from rocks on its eastern face which | 
suggest the head and foot stones of a grave. [ 

One mile from the railroad station you pass ; 
through Gardiner Canyon, a deep narrow gorge j 
between walls of sandstone on the east and 
volcanic rock on the west. On the west side '• 
is Eagle Nest Rock which ospreys have used j 
as a nesting place as long as history has any | 
record. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK i? 

At Boiling River, three miles farther on, a 
large volume of warm water from the Mam- 
moth Hot Springs flows into Gardiner River, 
and presents an interesting phenomenon. 
The name " Boiling River " is, however, not 
an accurate one, for the highest recorded 
temperature was only 136 F., while the aver- 
age is only about 124 F. 

During the last mile to Mammoth Hot 
Springs (6,264 feet), the road ascends 600 
feet. 

Here are located Fort Yelloivstone (where 
are the headquarters for the Park cavalry), 
the administrative headquarters of the Park, 
the United States commissioner's office, post- 
office, and stores where supplies, curios, etc., 
may be purchased. 

There is a good camping place near the 
buffalo corral ; no camping is permitted along 
Glen Creek nor in Swan Lake Basin, so the 
next camp site is 6 miles south of Mammoth 
Hot Springs on the road to Norris. 

The Terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs 

The calcareous deposits of the Mammoth 
Hot Springs cover an area of nearly 200 



18 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

acres, and comprise from 10 to 12 terraces 
and 70 active springs. 

In seeing the springs and terraces the direc- 
tion here given is usually followed, although 
the trip may be reversed if desired. The 
path starts at Liberty Cap, an extinct hot- 
spring cone, now standing 40 feet above the 
surrounding formation. It is similar in all 
respects to the travertine deposits which 
make up the terraces and is the result of proc- 
esses of erosion. At Mammoth Hot Springs 
the deposits from the hot water consist al- J 
most exclusively of carbonate of lime and are j 
essentially different from those of the geyser , 
basins, the latter being made up mainly of sili- | 
ceous sinter. There are some other minerals I 
in these waters, but it is true here as at all 
other points that the most of the coloring is 
due to a low form of vegetable life that will j 
grow in hot water up to a temperature of 
180 F. 

From Liberty Cap the path runs southwest I 
for a hundred feet and then turns to the I 
south, ascending the first bend to Minerva | 
and Mound Terraces. At Mound Terrace | 
there is a side path to Pulpit Terrace, which ; 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 19 

passes around Mound Terrace to the left. 
Two hundred feet beyond Minerva Terrace 
the path climbs the next bench at a very steep 
angle and continues southeast to the main 
Jupiter Spring, which is at present the larg- 
est spring on this formation. Being large 
and safely approached on the south side, this 
spring gives the tourist his best point to view 
the general features of these springs. The 
water appears to be boiling, but in reality 
is not quite hot enough. At many of the 
springs upon the broad terraces the water pre- 
sents the appearance of boiling springs, when 
as a matter of fact the temperature is far be- 
low the boiling point. The agitation is due to 
the free escape of carbonic-acid gas at the 
surface. The phenomena may be observed at 
a number of localities throughout the park. 
The boiling point on the terraces is on ac- 
count of the altitude, 198 F. The blue color 
of the water here and elsewhere in the park 
is not a mineral color nor a reflection from 
the sky, but is the natural color of clear 
water in large bodies. The water escaping 
from Jupiter Springs rushes down the hill- 
side to the east forming the incomparably 



20 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

beautiful Jupiter Terrace. From Jupiter 
Spring the path leads in a general southwest 
direction past Canary Spring, now dry, across 
an amphitheater of old formation, dotted with 
small pine trees. At the southern end of this 
amphitheater the path passes around a shoul- 
der and to the left lies Angel Terrace. Glen 
Spring which is on the right is now nearly or 
quite dry. The tourist passes up the next 
bench around Angel Terrace, keeping this ter- 
race on his left until a shoulder of formation j 
on the right is passed. The path then turns 
sharp to the right up a narrow gulch ascend- j 
ing the next bench. At the top of this bench j 
at the left is the Devils Kitchen, which may 
be descended by means of the ladders as far 
as the tourist finds comfortable. The tourist 
should note that this is the only opening it 
is safe to descend, as at all the other caves and [ 
openings carbonic-acid gas is present to a 
dangerous extent. Indeed, many birds and 
small animals fall victims annually to the gas I 1 
in these openings. A side path leads from I 
Devils Kitchen to Lookout Point and the But- i ( 
tress, two prominent points on the old inac- f 
tive Highland Terrace, from which the view 1 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 21 

is extensive. The main path then descends 
a short distance to the west to Bath Lake, 
where the bathing is very fine in the clear 
lukewarm water discharged into this lake 
from a hot spring on its southern shore. The 
path then runs over a slight rise to the north- 
west and down to Orange Spring, a very- 
large prominent formation sometimes called 
Orange Geyser, although not possessing any 
of the characteristics of a geyser. Here the 
path merges with an old carriage road. 
Should the tourist be sufficiently interested he 
may follow this road in a southerly direction 
to Soda Spring, Stygian Cave, and the White 
Elephant. Otherwise the road leads north- 
easterly to Narrow Gauge Terrace, which has 
become active within recent years at its west- 
ern end and so threatens to block the old road 
at this point. South of Narrow Gauge Ter- 
race the path turns sharply to the right and 
runs along the Esplanade until .it turns north 
and descends to a level formation, which is 
crossed to the Diana Spring. The waters 
flowing from this spring form the wonderful 
Cleopatra Terrace. About 500 feet from 
Cleopatra Terrace is a side path to Palette 



22 TtiE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Spring, which has recently become active 
again. Beyond the side path the main path 
descends to the level of the starting point, 
with Hymen Terrace, in some respects the 
most beautiful of all, on the left. It will re- 
pay the tourist to make a side trip completely 
around this terrace. 

McCartneys Cave is an old extinct spring, 
the opening of which is now covered by wire 
netting, on the grass lawn midway between 
the hotel and Fort Yellowstone. Cupids 
Cave, west of Jupiter Spring, has been closed 
up by deposit from a hot spring and can not 
now be visited. 

Side Trips from Mammoth Hot Springs 

Around Bunsen Peak. — Twelve miles by a 
one-way wagon road, south from Mammoth, 
Passes buffalo corral, climbs side of Bunsen 
Peak to Middle Gardiner Canyon (second 
canyon in size in the Park), Sheepeater Cliffs 
in canyon sides, along the canyon with view of J 
Osprey Falls (150 feet), and returning via 1 
Golden Gate and main road. Guide not j 
necessary. 

Buffalo herds (tame). — Small show herd 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 23 

is kept in summer in corral 1 mile south from 
Mammoth Hotel, on road to Bunsen Peak. 
Guide not needed. Formation surreys from 
hotel drive to this corral. Main herd is kept 
at buffalo farm on Lamar River, 30 miles east 
from Mammoth, on stage road to Cooke. One 
hundred and sixty-two head of pure-blood 
bison under fence or herder. No accommo- 
dations nearer than Wylie Camp Roosevelt 
(12 miles), but plenty of good camping 
places and fine fishing. 

Tower Falls (132 feet). — Near mouth of 
Tower Creek, 20 miles southeast from Mam- 
moth, on road to Mount Washburn. Beauti- 
ful falls and mountain scenery. Guide not 
needed. Accommodations at Wylie Camp 
Roosevelt, 2 miles from Tower Falls. 

Petrified stumps. — Seventeen miles by 
wagon road and three-fourths mile on side 
road southeast en route to Tower Falls. No 
guide needed. 

Specimen Ridge and Fossil Forest. — 
Twenty-four miles southeast by wagon road, 
thence 4 miles by trail. Guide needed. 

Northeasterjt portion of Park. — A trip could 
be made to include the petrified trees, Tower 



24 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Falls, main buffalo herd, Specimen Ridge and 
Fossil Forest, and some of the best fishing 
in the Park in Yellowstone River in vicinity 
of Tower Falls, Lamar River, and Slough 
Creek. Wylie permanent camp (Roosevelt) 
on Lost Creek, 2 miles northwest from Tower 
Falls (18 miles from Mammoth), provides ac- 
commodations after Mount Washburn Road 
is opened in the spring. Wagon road to 
Tower Falls, Slough Creek, and Soda Butte, 
but other points would have to be reached 
by trail, and guide and pack train would be 
needed. Excellent camping places in abun- 
dance on this trip. 

Mountain Climbing 

Electric Peak (11,100 feet)} — Ten miles 
northwest by trail ; 8 miles may be done with 
saddle horse, balance on foot, and a portion 
of it is difficult and somewhat dangerous. 
Highest mountain in the Park. Fine view on 
all sides. Guide needed. 

Bunsen Peak {9,100 feet)} — South 7 miles. 
Saddle horse can be ridden to top. Fine 
view. Guide not necessary. 

1 There is no drinking water on top of any of these moun- 
tains. 



prm 



TRAVEL GUIDE 

PARK 

YELLOWSTONE 

NATIONAL 

MAP 



— ■ PBrkTr»n.portationCo.Ro«<li. 
=— Available Wbroq Road*. 

Trail* and Old Wagon Roada. 

Flguree show AIHtndo la Feot. 




YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 25 

Mount Everts (7,900 feet)} — Northeast. 
Saddle horse can be ridden up from either end, 
over the top, and down the other end ; total dis- 
tance about 15 miles. No guide needed. 

Fishing trips. — One-day fishing trips from 
Mammoth Hot Springs may be made with 
rig, saddle horse, or even on foot by good 
pedestrians, as follows : South on main road 
to Willow Creek, Indian Creek, Upper Gardi- 
ner and branches, and Glen Creek, for small 
eastern brook trout. Distance 4 to 10 miles. 
East to Lava Creek, 5 miles, for small native 
or eastern brook trout, or to Blacktail Deer 
Creek, 8 miles, for small native or rainbow 
trout. East or northeast to main Gardiner 
River for whitefish, native, Loch Leven, and 
eastern brook trout. North, 6 miles to Yel- 
lowstone River for whitefish and native 
trout. 

Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris 

Three miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, 

on the road to Norris (20 miles), are the 

Silver Gate and the Hoodoos, altitude 7,000 

feet. The massive blocks of travertine, 

1 There is no drinking water on top of any of these moun- 
tains. 



26 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

piled up in a most confused manner and cov- 
ering several acres in the neighborhood of 
Silver Gate, were evidently thrown down 
from higher levels, probably as the result of 
some violent earthquake shock, accompanied 
by powerful lateral thrusts. One-half mile 
farther is Golden Gate (7,245 feet), where 
the concrete viaduct should be noted as part 
of the difficult engineering problems this pass 
presented. Bunsen Peak is on the left, Ter- 
race Mountain on the right. At the head of 
Golden Gate Canyon is Rustic Falls. 

Immediately after passing Rustic Falls (70 
feet high), the road leads into Swan Lake 
Basin. The abrupt passing from the frown- 
ing walls of Golden Gate Canyon to this open, 
smiling mountain valley is typical of the many 
unexpected changes that form the scenery 
along the Park roads. 

On the right are the many peaks of the 
Gallatin Range. Electric Peak, at the ex- 
treme north; then the long, flat summit of 
Quadrant Mountain, then Bannock Peak, 
Antler Peak, The Dome, Trilobite Point, and 
Mount Holmes on the extreme south. 
Mount Holmes, especially, is visible from 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 27 

many points along the road. Glen Creek, 
which flows through Swan Lake Basin, has 
many red speckled brook trout in it. Camp- 
ing is not allowed along Glen Creek or in 
Swan Lake Basin. 

Swan Lake (7,256 feet) is near the 5-mile 
post, and the headquarters camp of the Wylie 
Permanent Camping Co. is passed just before 
reaching the 6-mile post. After passing the 
6-mile post camping is permitted at any point 
over 100 feet from the road. However, as 
the timber commences near this point, the 
openings where grass can be obtained are 
noted on the succeeding pages as camp sites. 
Between 6-mile post and Apollinaris Spring, 
10 miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, are 
many good camp sites. All the streams along 
the road have trout in them. 

Gardiner River (7,300 feet) is crossed at 
the 7-mile post, and a little farther at the right 
of the road is the first camp of the Shaw & 
Powell Camping Co. Here the road enters 
Willow Park (7,300 feet), comprising the val- 
ley of Obsidian Creek, which is frequently 
crossed by the dams of beaver and dotted by 
their ungainly houses. 



28 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

At Apollinaris Spring (10 miles from Mam-jt 
moth Hot Springs, altitude 7,300 feet) is ai 
landing platform on the left of the road foiii 
those tourists who wish to stop and try this 1 ! 
water. On the opposite side of the road is a 
good camping place, the next camp site be4 
ing 4 miles farther on the right side of thefc 
road. 

Obsidian Cliff (12 miles from Mammoth 
Hot Springs, altitude 7,350 feet) is a cliff of 
hard, black volcanic glass. It is the most 
prominent exposure of this rock in the Park.p 
Obsidian also occurs in the red and white; 
forms. It was much used by Indians for af-fl 
row heads and other stone implements, this[ 
being one of the few points in the Park freJj 
quented by them before its discovery by white! 
men. On the right at this point is Beaveri 
Lake, the dam here being very long and! 
heavy. An old beaver house can be seen near 
the south end of the lake. 

A camp site ( 14 miles from Mammoth Hotj 
Springs) is passed a mile and a half south of; 
Beaver Lake; next camp site is just south of 
Bijah Spring, 3 miles farther on. 

Roaring Mountain (15'^ miles from Mam- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 29 

moth Hot Springs, altitude 7,550 feet) is es- 
pecially to be noted as a late development of 
thermal action. In 1902 this mountain side 
was covered by a heavy growth of pine tim- 
ber, and the only evidence of subterranean 
heat was a small opening among the pines 30 
feet square on the extreme top of the moun- 
tain, in which a little steam could be seen ris- 
ing from the ground. In the year mentioned 
activity became greater; the formation gradu- 
ally spread to its present size, and it is not 
certain that the limit has yet been reached. 

Twin Lakes (16 miles from Mammoth Hot 
Springs, altitude 7,513 feet) are two beauti- 
ful lakes, very close together, connected by a 
small brook, yet they are of different color. 

Bijah Spring (17 miles from Mammoth 
Hot Springs, altitude 7,500 feet) is alongside 
the road. There is a good camping place just 
south of this spring; the next camp site is on 
the canyon road a half mile beyond Xorris 
(3^4 miles from this point). 

The Frying Pan (18 miles from Mammoth 
Hot Springs, altitude 7,500 feet) is a peculiar 
hot spring, stewing away in a manner that 
earned 1 it its name. 



30 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

; 
Norris Geyser Basin L 

N orris Geyser Basin (20 miles from Mam-| 
moth Hot Springs, 25 miles from Gardiner,; 
altitude 7,470 feet). — The soldier station is at 1 ' 
the crossing of the Gibbon River, where there! 
is good fishing for rainbow trout. The road, 
leading to the right in a southerly direction j 
is the regular loop road to the Geyser Basins, 
while that leading to the left in an easterly 
direction is the loop road returning from the 
canyon. The geyser basin itself is a half mile 
south of the junction. 

The path for viewing this formation starts': 
immediately in front of the lunch station and I 
follows the board walk in a southwest direc-j 
tion to the road near Black Growler. Owing! 
to the unsafe condition of the crust through! 
this part of the trip it is not wise to step offj 
the walk. Constant Geyser, Whirligig Geyser, ! 
Valentine Geyser, and the new opening of the 
Black Growler are passed in the order named. 
The new opening of the Black Growler first! 
made its appearance in August, 1912, and; 
has steadily increased in power ever since ;| 
it is about 100 feet from the old opening and! 
farther down the hill. This serves to illus- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 31 

trate the main characteristic of this basin, 
which is its unstableness. The phenomena 
of this basin, with the possible exception of 
the Constant and Minute Man, are constantly 
changing in size, locality, character of erup- 
tion, and nature of contents of tube. The old 
opening of the Black Growler is near the road 
and is now inactive. Tourists now proceed 
southwest along the road to the Bathtub, on 
the left. Some seasons this is an active gey- 
ser, playing at intervals of a few minutes, in 
other years it boils violently, but does not 
throw out any water. From the Bathtub a 
branch path leads south past Emerald Pool 
and some small paint pots that have developed 
since 1905 to the New Crater Geyser. This 
geyser is a comparatively recent outbreak of 
a well-known old vent, but unknown to those 
who witnessed the first display of the so- 
called New Crater. The texture and color of 
the most recent deposits are due mainly to 
salts of iron derived from ferruginous min- 
erals in the fresh rock exposed by the open- 
ing of the New Crater. The floor of the Nor- 
ris Geyser Basin consists of siliceous sinter 
similar in all respects to the sinter bottoms of 



32 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the other geyser basins. It is frequently cov- | 
ered with brilliantly tinted algous growths, | 
which flourish luxuriantly in the warm j 
waters. After returning to the Bathtub the ! 
path leads southwest down the hill to the plat- ! 
form near the Minute Man Geyser. Three j 
hundred feet southeast of the Minute Man ! 
near the base of the hill is Norris's biggest 
geyser, the Monarch. Unfortunately this 
geyser has the varying habit, and it is almost 
impossible to foretell what its period between ! 
eruptions will be. During 1913 it played I 
every hour, and further varied its custom by i 
throwing black mud instead of clear water as 
it had previously done. Some seasons it has I 
been known to play only once or twice. The I 
path continues south to Fearless, Palpitation, 
Corporal, Vixen, and Pearl Geysers, all small 
and with such uncertain periods of eruptions | 
that they are unsatisfactory to visit. 

Congress Pool is on the left of the road | 
south of the station, and has at times been a | 
quiet pool, a boiling pool, a steam vent, and a j 
mud geyser, changes occurring so rapidly that 
one month it may have quite different charac- j 
teristics from what it had the preceding month 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 33 

or what it may have the following month. 
The Echinus and Valentine Geysers are well 
worth seeing, but have seldom played during 
the last season or two. The Hurricane is 
now a mud vent on the right of the road 
south of the Congress Pool. 

Norris to Lower Geyser Basin 

From Norris the road leads southwest to 
the old Fountain Hotel. It passes through 
Elk Park, 2 miles from the junction at 
Norris, where there is a camp site, then 
runs along Gibbon River through a short 
canyon, interesting from the peculiar rock for- 
mation. Through Gibbon Meadow, 4 miles 
from Norris, altitude 7,315 feet, are good 
camping places ; the next camp site is below 
Gibbon Falls, 5 miles farther on, but there is 
no forage at the Gibbon Falls camp, the first 
camp beyond Gibbon Meadow where there 
is forage being on Firehole River, 13 miles 
from the Gibbon Meadow. 

At the south end of Gibbon Meadow a 
branch road leads to the left to Gibbon (or 
Artist) Paint Pots, located on the mountain 



34 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

side, 50 feet above the meadow level and a 
half mile from the main road. 

Just after crossing Gibbon River the first 
time (about 4^ miles from Norris) is a trail 
that leads back up the river, then up the 
mountain for about three- fourths mile to the 
Monument Geyser Basin, which is very inter- 
esting on account of the peculiar forms of the 
geyser cones and because it is the highest of 
all the park geyser formations. It is not, 
however, of enough interest to the casual 
visitor to pay for the visit, the thermal activ- 
ity being practically extinct. 

The road now leads through the main Gib- 
bon Canyon, for 5 miles, first on one bank of 
the rapidly flowing stream, then on the other. 
The canyon is characterized by fine views and 
many curiosities, but the tourist has time and 
inclination now only for the more prominent. 
Beryl Spring (5 miles from Norris, altitude 
7,296 feet) is a fine boiling spring close to the 
road. Iron Spring (8 miles from Norris, 
altitude 7,100 feet) is a cold mineral spring 
that, like Apollinaris Spring, is usually 
sampled by tourists. Gibbon Falls, 80 feet 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 35 

high (8'J^ miles from Norris), is the very 
pretty waterfall of Gibbon River on the left 
as the road descends. One-half mile farther 
is a good camping site on the left, but it has 
very little, if any, forage for horses. 

Ten miles from Norris a branch road to the 
west leads to the western entrance. At this 
point the road leaves Gibbon River, climbs 
the mountain to the left, and passes for nearly 
5 miles over a rolling sandy country covered 
by pine forests. The road then descends to 
Firehole River at the Cascades of the Fire- 
hole (14^2 miles from Norris) which are 
only a hundred feet away but are out of sight 
from the road. They are, however, well 
worth the slight stop and effort required to 
reach them. Another road from the western 
entrance joins the belt road at Firehole Cas- 
cades. There is good fishing in Firehole 
River for eastern brook, Loch Leven, Von 
Behr, native, and rainbow trout, and also 
whitefish. 

. THe road now leads up Firehole River and 
just north of the 17-mile post from Norris is 
a good camp site. Camp sites are now al- 
most continuous for 2 miles. At the 18-mile 



36 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

post a soldier station is passed; in front of 
this station a short road to Excelsior Geyser 
and Upper Geyser Basin branches out to the 
right. This short road, however, misses 
most of the Lower Geyser Basin. One-half 
mile from the soldier station Nez Perce Creek 
is crossed. This is the last camp site till Ex- 
celsior Geyser, 4^ miles farther, is reached. 

Side Trips from Fountain Hotel 

I 
Great Fountain Geyser and Firehole Basin, j 

— One and one-half miles southeast by wagon 

road, No guide needed. 

Twin Buttes and Fairy Falls (250 feet). — f 
Three miles southwest by trail. No guide \ 
necessary. 

Fishing. — Good fishing in Firehole River,: 
and branches within easy distances of hotel. 

Lower Geyser Basin (Fountain Hotel) to Upper 
Geyser Basin (Old Faithful Inn) 

Lower or Fountain Geyser Basin (20 miles 
from Norris, 40 miles from Mammoth Hoti< 
Springs, and 45 miles from Gardiner, altitude;; 
7,240 feet) is the largest of the park geyser 
basins, but its curiosities are too scattered to'- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 37 

admit of more thorough examination than 
can be given to the more prominent ones 
along the road. 

After passing the hotel and crossing a flat 
a few hundred feet wide, the road ascends a 
low hill to the Mammoth Paint Pots, a strik- 
ing example of what has been given the 
name " paint pots." They occur everywhere 
throughout the Park, but the more prominent 
are here and at the West Thumb. 

From the unloading platform at the Mam- 
moth Paint Pots a side path leads along the 
ridge through the pines to the Fountain Gey- 
ser, which is surrounded by a great many 
small geysers. The Fountain Geyser was in 
former years very prominent, more on account 
of the vast quantities of water erupted than 
of its height. Since 191 1 the eruptions have 
been erratic and seldom witnessed. 

The Clepsytra, Belief ontaine, Jelly, and Jet 
are all small geysers near the Fountain; 
usually one or more of them is in eruption. 
They are given little attention because of the 
greater attractions that lie before the tourist. 

South of the Mammoth Paint Pots a branch 
road leads to the left to Firehole Lake and 



38 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

other curiosities. It is usually taken by the 
tourist unless it is important to hurry on. 
The main road proceeds in a straight line in 
a southwest direction. The first interesting 
feature is Hot Lake, at the western end of 
which is a pair of constantly playing geysers, 
known as the Black Warrior or Steady. But 
the most remarkable feature here is the second 
lake at the extreme western end of the road, 
known as Firehole Lake. If the tourist 
leaves his conveyance and follows the path a i 
hundred yards or so to the extreme western | 
point of the lake, he will see the so-called | 
flames. But they are to be seen from only I 
two points, and should the wind be causing | 
a disturbance of the water he may not see j 
them at all. At the eastern end of this small I 
lake is a circular opening of a deep-seated 
spring not unlike other vents of thermal 
waters. Through this vent, which usually 
stands full of clear, transparent water, numer- 
ous bubbles of mingled air and superheated 
steam rise gradually. Before reaching the ; 
surface they unite to form one large mass that 
in its upward passage strikingly resembles a 
flame of fire. This continues till the bubble 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 30 

bursts, only to be followed by a repetition of 
the phenomenon. The explanation is that' the 
slightly agitated water is reflected in the thin 
film of the ascending volume of gas. The 
phenomena are far better seen at Firehole 
Lake than elsewhere, but under favorable 
conditions they may be seen at other locali- 
ties but in a far less striking manner. On the 
return, the road branches to the left, leading 
to the Great Fountain Geyser, playing every 
3 to 12 hours and rightly considered as one of 
the sights of the Park. Even during a quies- 
cent period the beauty of its pool and the deli- 
cate tracery of its formation are worthy of 
close examination. 

Between Firehole Lake and the Great 
Fountain, Bath Lake, with its bathhouse, is 
passed; Young Hopeful, Narcissus, Bead, 
and Pink Cone are all small and interesting 
geysers. 

To the west of Great Fountain a footpath 
a half mile in length runs past Surprise, Dia- 
mond, Five Sisters, and Buffalo Springs. All 
are worth visiting if one has the time. 

From the Great Fountain two roads lead 
back to join the main road. The one running 



4 o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

i 

northwest passes the imposing cone of the I 
White Dome. This cone is large and inter- 
esting, but the geyser itself is too feeble to de- 
tain the tourist long. I 

The other road leads west, and about 200 ! 
feet from the Great Fountain is a violently j 
boiling spring close to and at the right of the j 
road. This is Firehole Pool, with phenomena | 
similar to Firehole Lake, but it is often neces- | 
sary to walk entirely around the spring to I 
find a favorable point of view. 

One hundred feet farther, at the right, is j 
Broken Egg Spring, an exquisite dainty. | 
For the next mile or two the road approaches i 
Twin Buttes, a prominent landmark in the ! 
southern end of Lower Geyser Basin and 
west of Firehole River. 

Midzvay Geyser Basin (3 miles from Foun- j 
tain) is, properly speaking, a part of the j 
Lower Geyser Basin, but owing to the size of 
its features it has often been given a separate 
designation. There are numerous camp sites 
along the river above and below Excelsior 
Geyser. The next camp site is at Biscuit 
Basin, 3 miles farther on. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 41 

The greatest attraction here is Excelsior 
Geyser, which was the largest geyser in the 
park, but which has not been active since 1888. 
The beautiful tints and colors of Prismatic 
Lake and Turquoise Spring make them wor- 
thy companions. 

Biscuit Basin (6 miles from Fountain) is in 
reality the lower end of the Upper Geyser 
Basin. There is a good camp site here, the 
next being near Riverside Geyser iy 2 miles 
farther. Fishing here, and in fact all the way 
from Nez Perce Creek, is good, but the con- 
stant fishing makes the fish wary. 

The road forks opposite Biscuit Basin ; the 
road on the right should be taken if Biscuit 
Basm is to be visited ; if no stop is to be made 
at Biscuit Basin, either road may be taken, as 
they unite near Mirror Geyser. 

Biscuit Basin is on the west side of Fire- 
hole River and is reached by a footbridge. 
Sapphire Pool, one minute quiet and two or 
three minutes later violently boiling, is the at- 
tractive feature here; the peculiar formation 
at its south end gives the name of " Biscuit " 
to this basin. A short distance west the Jewel 
and Silver Globe are small geysers whose 



42 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

striking formation gives them their charac- j 
teristic names. 

Mystic Falls is on Little Firehole River i 
some distance to the west and rather difficult I 
to find. 

A half mile after leaving Biscuit Basin, at 
the right and below the road, is the Artemisia \ 
Geyser, which has a beautiful crater and j 
throws a tremendous volume of water when 
in action. 

Upper Geyser Basin 

A mile and a half south of Biscuit Basin, 
at the base of a small hill, the road branches 
again. The road on the right should be taken 
as on it is Morning Glory Spring, whose beau- 
tiful shape and color make it an object of uni- 
versal admiration. At this point we enter 
that far-famed Upper Geyser Basin, where 
the largest and finest geysers of the world are 
gathered together in a small space only a 
mile north and south by a half mile or less 
wide. * 

The Fan Geyser is on the right between the 
road and the river. The Mortar is a few feet 
farther up the river. At their best these 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 43 

geysers are very interesting, but unfortunately 
have been seldom in eruption for the last two 
seasons. 

At the left, just above the bridge on the ex- 
treme edge of the river, is the Riverside, one 
of the prominent geysers of the basin. Its 
period is very regular, ranging from six to 
seven hours. An overflow from the lower 
opening presages an eruption within an hour 
and a half. A camp site is located on the 
knoll above the Riverside Geyser. Camping 
not being allowed in the basin, the next camp 
site is south of Old Faithful Geyser, nearly 2 
miles by road from this point. 

At the left and close to the road is the 
Grotto Geyser, differing from most in that 
the empty crater is more interesting than the 
eruption. At this point it is usual to follow 
the path instead of keeping to the road. 

From here to Old Faithful Geyser there are 
two roads and a path. The road to the left 
is the direct road, but it does not pass any 
curiosities except Castle Geyser. (See de- 
scription under the trip by path.) The road 
to the right (the Blacksand Road) is slightly 
longer and passes many curiosities. 



44 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The road to the right turns up the hill and 
passes the Wylie camp on the right. Imme- 
diately beyond the road comes close to a group 
of geysers and springs. Of these, the Daisy 
is a powerful little geyser that plays fre- 
quently and regularly. During the last five 
years it has been increasing in frequency and 
power. Next to it on the west is the hooded 
opening of the Comet, while over near the 
edge of the formation is the Splendid. The 
Comet and Splendid very seldom play. These I 
three geysers as well as all springs in this 
neighborhood are connected. When one of i 
the geysers plays it affects them all. 

A quarter mile beyond the road passes a I 
crested spring on a mound on the right. This j 
is the Punchbowl. Then the Black Sand \ 
Spring, Specimen Lake, and the Spouter Gey- 
sey are passed. Near the Spouter is a foot- 
bridge to the west bank of Iron Creek. On j 
crossing the bridge, immediately before one 
are the attractive Sunset Lake and the Rain- I 
bow Pool, and to the south lies Emerald Pool, \\ 
one of the most beautiful of the Upper Basin \ 
springs. As the road leads on across a more j 
or less level stretch it passes the Three Sis- I 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 45 

ters group of springs, and shortly afterwards 
joins the main road a couple of hundred yards 
or so north of Old Faithful Inn. 

The path that leaves the road at the Grotto 
Geyser leads first to the shattered cone of the 
Giant Geyser, the greatest geyser of them all 
but rather uncertain in its periods. At the 
right of the Giant are the Bijou and Mastiff, 
two small geysers that are playing most of the 
time. On the opposite side of the river east 
of the Giant are three pools, normally quiet 
but apparently connected with the Giant, as the 
surface of their water lowers each time their 
big neighbor erupts. A short distance far- 
ther is the crater of the Oblong Geyser, beau- 
tiful to look at either while quiet or in action. 
Crossing the river on a footbridge and contin- 
uing, the path passes Chromatic and Beauty 
Springs and on to the Economic Geyser. For 
many years this small and active geyser played 
every three minutes, using the same water 
over and over again. But lately its action 
has been erratic and sometimes months pass 
without it being seen in action. 

A quarter mile farther to the south, at the 
base of a rock-covered hill, is one of the finest 



46 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

i 

geysers, the Grand, its eruptions being|: 
smooth, strong, and powerful, as well as beau-f 
tiful to behold. Immediately to the north is| 
the Turban Geyser, so called because of thd 
image of a turban seen in a detached piece: 
of its northern rim. All the springs and gey-[. 
sers in this section seem to be more or lessfc 
connected to the Grand, for while each geyserj: 
plays independently their water supply seems' 
to be affected by the action of the Grand. 

The Triplets, Bulger, Chimney, and Tea-i 
kettle are for the most part quiet pools but 
sometimes violently agitated. The Tardy is ap 
very powerful little geyser with such a small' 
opening that there is a sharp whistling noisei 
to each eruption. The Spasmodic is a small 
geyser. But the important member of this 1 
group is the Sawmill Geyser; here the violent 
whirling motion of its waters in action is duep 
no doubt to the explosion of bubbles of super-' 
heated steam, aided, perhaps, by some pecul J > 
iarity of its crater. 

It is usual here to turn to the right ancj' 
cross the river on the footbridge. The path' 
then leads up the hill to the Crested Pool 
beautiful open spring of great depth. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 47 

never boils, nor is it at all affected by the 
eruption of the near-by Castle Geyser. This 
is another powerful geyser, and is, so far as 
known, unconnected with any other spring or 
geyser. It is also peculiar in that it fre- 
quently spurts up 15 or 20 feet, just as if it 
might play. This spurting sometimes con- 
tinues for several days and is usually an in- 
dication that the geyser will not play. This 
geyser has the highest and probably the most 
remarkable cone of any. 

From this point the path leads to the sol- 
dier station on the river bank, where the 
river is crossed again to the east side on an- 
other footbridge. Immediately in front and 
a hundred yards from the river is a rounded 
hill of geyser formation with a group of four 
geysers on its top. These are the Lion, Lion- 
ess, and two cubs. The Lioness, which is 
the large open crater of boiling water, and 
the large cub, the smaller of the two cones, 
are very seldom in eruption. But the little 
cub, the smallest opening, plays every two 
hours, and the Lion, the largest of the cones, 
plays frequently. 

To the west on the next elevation is the 



48 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Devils Ear, and a little farther on is the 
Doublet, both quiet boiling springs. Then the 
path turns to the south to the Sponge Geyser, 
remarkable for the color and texture of its 
formation and the explosiveness of its erup- 
tions, although it only throws its water two 
or three feet. 

Next a low mound to the south is ascended, 
and on it are located three open pools, some- 
times quiet, sometimes boiling, and sometimes 
in action. The connection between all three is 
very close. The first pool with the raised rim 
is the Teakettle: the second, the smaller of the 
rimless pools, is the Vault; the largest pool is 
the crater of the Giantess, a large, powerful, 
and uncertain geyser. It is just as well not to 
approach the Giantess too close ; she has not 
much consideration for the safety of her visi- 
tors, and has been known to break forth intoj 
eruption with no warning whatever from its 
quiet, smiling crater. When this geyser does, 
start, the vast masses of erupted water are! 
wonderful to behold. 

Now the path turns south and then down 
toward the river, but the tourist should keepj 
far enough to the south to avoid the small 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 49 

openings that indicate the dangerous nature 
of the ground between the Giantess and the 
nearest point of the river. 

On the edge of the high bank of the river 
is the broken crater of the old Cascade Gey- 
ser. Immediately opposite on the west side 
of the river .is the small round opening of the 
Chinaman Spring. 

At this point the tourist turns a little north 
of west to the cone of the Beehive, the most 
artistic and symmetrical of all. 

Crossing the bridge below the Beehive and 
going south to the very head of the basin the 
tourist arrives at Old Faithful Geyser, the 
tourists' friend. Other geysers may be more 
powerful, others may throw their water 
higher, others may have more beautiful cra- 
ters, but Cld Faithful has some of each of 
these qualities, and, in addition, it plays often 
and with regularity. It had the honor of 
welcoming the first explorer, and never since 
that day has it failed any tourist who cared 
to look at it. 

The head of the Upper Basin is 9 miles 
from the Fountain, 29 miles from Norris, 49 
miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, 54 miles 



50 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

from Gardiner, and the altitude is 7,330 feet. 
A general store is located here near the hotel. 
The road leaves the basin south of the Old 
Faithful for the West Thumb, 19 miles away. 
There are camp sites south of Old Faithful 
for a half mile or as far as the first wagon 
bridge across Firehole River. The forage, 
however, is scarce at these sites. The next 
camp site is 4 miles farther, on the branch 
road to the Lone Star Geyser, which is three- 
quarters of a mile from the main road. 

Side Trips from Old Faithful Inn 

Shoshone Lake and Geyser Basin. — Four 
and one-half miles by road via Lone Star 
Geyser, thence 8 miles via trail. Union Gey- 
ser, 100 feet high ; Bronze Geyser. Guide 
needed. Fishing for Loch Leven, lake and 
eastern brook trout. 

Upper Geyser Basin to Thumb of Yellowstone 
Lake 

As the road leaves Upper Geyser Basin it 
begins its long climb to the Continental Di- 
vide, first along Firehole River and then up 
Spring Creek Canyon. Two miles from Up- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 51 

per Basin there is a platform on the right to 
enable one to view the pretty Keppler Cas- 
cades. 

At the junction of Firehole River and' 
Spring Creek (3^ miles from Upper Basin) 
the road leaves the Firehole, but there is a 
branch road to the right running three-quar- 
ters of a mile to the Lone Star Geyser, which 
plays for 10 minutes at intervals of 40 min- 
utes, height 40 to 60 feet, altitude 7,600 feet. 
On this branch road are good camp sites, the 
next being 6^2 miles farther up the main road 
at De Lacy Creek. 

The first crossing of the Continental Di- 
vide, 8J/2 miles from Upper Basin, at an alti- 
tude of 8,240 feet, is through Craig Pass 
alongside of a little lily-covered lake, Isa 
Lake, whose waters in springtime hesitate 
whether to flow out one end into Pacific 
waters or out the other into Atlantic waters 
and usually compromise by going in both di- 
rections. 

Then the road turns down the narrow and 
tortuous Corkscrew Hill to a little valley at 
De Lacy Creek, hemmed in by pine-covered 
heights on all sides. Here is the last camp 



52 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



site till Dry Creek is reached between ij^jf 
and 2 miles farther on. Forage is scarce, and. 
as there is not much water at the next point 
(2 miles from Dry Creek) it is well to be pre-i 
pared to go clear on to the Thumb, 9 miles j 
from De Lacy Creek. 

Soon after leaving De Lacy Creek the road,- 
comes out on Shoshone Point from which 
Shoshone Lake is in plain sight and the Teton 
Mountains can be seen on a clear day. There 
is fine fishing in Shoshone Lake, which can 
be reached on horseback by following down 
De Lacy Creek for a distance of about 3 miles 
from the main road. 

The road descends a little from Shoshone! 
Point and then climbs to the Continental Di-\ 
vide again at an altitude of 8,345 feet (15^!; 
miles from Upper Basin). 

From this point it pitches rapidly down; 
through dense timber until within 1 mile of' 
the Thumb, when a glimpse of Yellowstone 
Lake is had. A little later Duck Lake is[ 
passed far below the road on the left. 

As the road leads out to the lake shore the 
soldier station is on the left where the road 
forks. The road to the right leads to th 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 53 

hotel company's lunch station, the boat land- 
ing, Lewis Lake, the South Boundary, and 
Jackson Lake. The road to the left is the 
main road. Tourists no longer have the op- 
tion of a boat ride from this point to the Lake 
Hotel (16 miles), for since the installation 
of motor-cars in the Park, there has been lit- 
tle demand for it. 

Side Trips from the Thumb 

Jackson Hole and Lake. — Forty-eight miles 
(25 outside of park). Lewis Lake and Falls. 
Teton Mountains in Jackson Hole; Grand 
Teton, 13,691 feet. Fishing for native and 
lake trout. Wagon road. 

Heart Lake and Geyser Basin. — Twelve 
miles south by trail. Guide needed. Fish- 
ing for lake and native trout. 

The Thumb 

At the Thumb the tourist should see The 
Paint Pots. They are not as large as the 
ones at the Fountain, but are more brilliantly 
colored. The Fishing Cone is situated on 
the margin of Yellowstone Lake, a quarter 



54 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

mile north of the boat landing. The Lake- 
shore Geyser, which frequently plays to a 
height of 30 feet, is on the lake shore, 200 

feet north of the boat landing. 

Thumb to Lake Hotel 

Should the traveler elect to follow the road 
from West Thumb (19 miles from Upper Ba- 
sin, 28 miles from Fountain, 48 miles from 
Norris, 68 miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, 
J2> miles from Gardiner, altitude of Yellow- 
stone Lake, 7,741 feet), he will follow the 
shore of Lake Yellowstone for about 5 miles. 
There are camp sites 2 miles from Thumb, 5 
miles from Thumb, and on Bridge Creek, ir 
miles from Thumb. 

As the road passes around Thumb Bay fine 
views of Mount Sheridan to the south are 
had. Near the top of the hill is obtained a 
fine view of Thumb Bay on the right ; a little 
later the Knotted Woods on the left are \ 
passed. The road then traverses a rolling I 
table-land covered with dense pines. At a j; 
point 10 miles from Thumb the road crosses 
Bridge Creek ; a half mile farther on is a j. 
camp site. The Natural Bridge is about 11 V> 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 55 

miles from Thumb ; it is 200 yards from the 
road on the left and in plain sight. There is 
a camp site at this point, and from here to the 
Yellowstone Canyon good camp sites are nu- 
merous. 

At the Lake Hotel (16 miles from Thumb, 
35 miles from Upper Basin, 44 miles from 
Fountain, 64 miles from Norris, 84 miles 
from Mammoth Hot Springs, 89 miles from 
Gardiner) are the boat landing and a general 
store selling supplies and curios. There is 
good fishing all along Yellowstone Lake, but 
especially at the outlet of the lake, 1*4 miles 
north. Boats and tackle may be rented at 
the boat landing. 

Lake Hotel to Grand Canyon 

Nearly 2 miles from Lake Hotel the road 
to East Boundary and Cody branches off to 
the right. Seven and one-half miles from 
Lake Hotel there are platforms for tourists 
wishing to see Mud Volcano and Grotto 
Spring, located 100 yards to the left of the 
road. There is good fishing all along the 
river. The road sobn enters and crosses 



56 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Hayden Valley and then enters a narrow val- 
ley by side of the Yellowstone River. 

Fifteen miles from Lake Hotel, and right 
at the head of the rapids, a branch road leads 
to and across the Chittenden Bridge to the 
east for 2^2 miles to Artists Point. From 
this branch road there can be obtained mag- 
nificent views of the Upper Falls, the Lower 
Falls, and the Grand Canyon. There is a path 
along the rim that can be followed on foot, 
and a great many views seen to advantage. 

The main road leads to the left. In about 
a half mile the platform at Upper Falls, 109 1 
feet high, is reached, steps leading down to k 
the rim of the falls. A few hundred feet far- 
ther is the soldier station and then shortly 
after the roads fork again. This is Canyon 
Junction, 16 miles from Lake, 32 miles from 
Thumb, 51 miles from Upper Basin, 60 miles 
from Fountain, 80 miles from Norris, 100 
miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, 105 miles 
from Gardiner; altitude 7,850 feet. Camp 
sites are opposite the soldier station andji 
across Chittenden Bridge. The road to the 
right leads to Lower Falls, to the northern^ 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 57 

side of the Grand Canyon, the Canyon Hotel, 
and Mount Washburn. There is good fishing 
in Yellowstone River and Cascade Creek. 

Grand Canyon 

If the canyon is to be viewed from the north- 
ern rim, the road to the right is taken. A 
high, steel bridge is crossed over Cascade 
Creek. At the east end of the bridge a path 
leads to the right down the edge of the gulch 
to Crystal Falls, a lovely little falls, that is of- 
ten overlooked in the presence of the larger 
attractions. This path can be followed to top 
of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, 
308 feet high, if the tourist wants a little 
scramble. Another path from the end of the 
bridge leads to the left ; this is a short cut to 
the Canyon Hotel. The main road winds up 
the hill, affording here and there glimpses of 
the Grand Canyon. At the top of the hill are 
the stairs to the Lower Falls. A few hun- 
dred feet farther, the branch road to the hotel 
and to Mount Washburn turns out to the left. 

On the road about 1 mile from Canyon Junc- 
tion is Lookout Point, reached by walking a 
hundred feet out to the right of the road. 



58 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Down the gulch to the right of Lookout Point 
is a rather steep trail leading to Red Rock, a 
fine point from which to view the Lower 
Falls. Grand View and Castle Ruins are 
other good points from which to view the 
canyon. 

But better yet is Inspiration Point, at the 
end of this road. This point, Artists Point, j 
Lookout Point, and the edge of the Lower 
Falls are the best places from which to view 
the wonders of the canyon. The view from 
each is different from the others, and each f 
merits a careful inspection from the tourist. } 
This canyon is some 20 miles in length, but ill 
is only the first 3 miles below the Lower Falls | 
that carry these wonderful colors. This is) 
due to the fact that in times gone by fumes 
rising from hot springs deep in the ground 
have risen through the rhyolite rock of this 
3-mile section until the rock has been decom-/ 
posed and changed. The remainder of the) 
canyon has not been acted on by the hot-spring f 
fumes and hence retains its dark gray walls. 

A short distance from Inspiration Point, 
on the east side of and close to the road, 
is the Glacier Bowlder, not by any means the!' 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 59 

only glacial boulder in the Park, but the most 
striking example of this force. This boulder 
must have been brought a distance of at least 
20 miles by the ancient glacier that carried 
it and dropped it here for the wonder of the 
tourist. 

Grand Canyon to Gardiner via Norris 

On the road from Canyon Junction to Nor- 
ris there is a steep hill for the first mile and 
then the road winds through timber-covered 
rolling country to the Wedded Trees, about 
5^2 miles from Canyon Junction ; a mile and a 
half farther the road enters Virginia Mead- 
ows, altitude 7,765 feet, where there is a camp 
site and the fishing is good. This is the only 
camping ground between Canyon Junction and 
Norris. At the lower end of the meadow 
Gibbon River is crossed and the road con- 
tinues down its north bank past the Virginia 
Cascades to Norris Geyser Basin, 11 miles 
from Canyon Junction. 

Norris to Gardiner 

The tourist returns over the road previously 
described. 



60 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Grand Canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs via 
Mount Washburn and Tower Falls 

In honor of Gen. Hiram M. Chittenden, 
the engineer officer to whom the excellence of 
the present park roads is largely due, the 
road from Canyon Junction to the top of 
Mount Washburn is known as the " Chitten- 
den Road." It is usually not free from snow 
until after July i. It leads up past the hotel 
and the hotel barns. Camping places are 
scattered all along this road, the best being 
Dunraven Pass, 7 miles from Canyon Junc- 
tion, at an altitude of 8,800 feet. These are 
not very good, owing to lack of water, the 
first water to be counted on being at Tower 
Creek, 17 miles from Canyon Junction by Dun- 
raven Pass Road and 20 miles by road over 
Mount Washburn. 

At Dunraven Pass the road forks; the road 
to the left is the direct road to Tower Falls, 
shorter and avoiding the heavy grades of 
Mount Washburn, that to the right leading to 
the top of Mount Washburn (wagons can be 
driven to the extreme top and down the north- 
ern side). It is well to get up Mount Wash- 
burn as early in the day as possible, on ac~ 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 61 

count of the heavy winds that spring up later. 
The climb is long, but the views constantly 
unfurling as the tourist rises are unrivaled, 
and the time taken in the slow climb is put to 
good advantage by the sight-seer. The view 
from the top of Mount Washburn, altitude 
10,000 feet, is equaled only by that from Elec- 
tric Peak and Mount Sheridan, both of which 
are as yet too inaccessible to be climbed 
readily. 

Beyond Mount Washburn the road enters 
an open country free from heavy timber, and 
so affords numberless opportunities to view 
the surrounding region. The grade is a 
steadily descending one to Tower Creek, alti- 
tude 6,400 feet. A footpath bears to the right 
just before reaching the steel bridge across 
Tower Creek and leads to Tower Falls, 132 
feet high. The base of the falls can be 
reached by going down to the Yellowstone 
River and then up Tower Creek. The two 
columnar walls in the sides of the canyon 
across the Yellowstone should be noted. Fish- 
ing in the river at this point is good. 

The next camp site is near the soldier 
station, 2 miles farther on. The road after 



62 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

leaving Tower Creek passes first the towers, 
or minarets, that give this section its name; 
then passes close to a wonderful cliff of co- 
lumnar basalt that overhangs the road. This 
is the famous Overhanging Cliff. Shortly 
after the Needle is reached. This is a long, 
slender spire that starts at the river's edge 
and mounts up nearly 300 feet. 

Shortly after, the bottom of the long de- 
scent from Mount Washburn is reached, 2 
miles from Tower Falls. Here a branch road 
leads to the left to " Camp Roosevelt," and 
one to the right to the main buffalo corral, 12 
miles, and to Soda Butte, 17 miles. Next is 
the soldier station. The next camp site is 1 
mile farther, where a road bears off to the 
left to the Petrified Trees, one-half mile from 
the main road. There is a very pretty walk 
back of Camp Roosevelt up through Lost 
Creek Canyon and past Lost Creek Falls. 
The next good camp site is at Blacktail Deer 
Creek, 10 miles farther. 

After leaving Petrified Trees Junction the 
road climbs a hill 3 miles long, then traverses 
Crescent Gulch to the Blacktail Deer Divide, 
from which point there is a long, steady de- 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 63 

scent to Gardiner River, within 2 miles of 
Mammoth Hot Springs. 

At Blacktail Deer Creek is a good camp site 
and there is good fishing for native and rain- 
bow trout. A trail to the right, just beyond 
the bridge, leads to Yellowstone River, 3 
miles away, where there is more good fishing. 

A mile and a half beyond this creek the 
road crosses Lava Creek, and a few hundred 
yards below is Undine Falls (60 feet), re- 
markable for the development of basalt in 
the walls of its canyon (East Gardiner or Lava 
Creek Canyon). It is 5 miles from Mam- 
moth Hot Springs, and there is a good camp 
site. Good fishing for native and eastern 
brook trout. 

At Gardiner River, 18 miles from Tower 
Falls, the road crosses on the highest and 
longest steel bridge in the Park, and soon 
after Mammoth Hot Springs is reached. 

Yellowstone, Mont. (Western Entrance), to the 
" Loop " Road 

Yellowstone, Mont., is a terminus of 
Union Pacific System, and is the western 
entrance to the Park. Guides, outfits, 



66 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

8 miles from eastern boundary, the road 
leaves Middle Creek and passes between high 
frowning cliffs on either side. 

Two beautiful small lakes are passed, the 
first being Lake Eleanor and the second Syl- 
van Lake, a dainty little sheet of water, set 
in the midst of heavy timber, surrounded by 
high and rugged peaks. Sylvan Lake is 9 
miles from the eastern boundary and its alti- 
tude is 8,350 feet. At this point is a camp 
site; the next one is at Cub Creek, 4 miles 
farther. There is another camp site 4 miles | 
beyond Cub Creek. 

Turbid Lake, altitude 7,900 feet, 20 miles j 
from the eastern boundary, has a camp site i 
at its southern end. This lake is remark- } 
able for the innumerable hot springs and I 
steam openings in its bottom and along its j; 
shores. These springs keep the water more | 
or less agitated and muddy, but there is good |i 
water for camp purposes in Bear Creek, flow- |s 
ing into Turbid Lake from the southeast. 
The next camp site is at Indian Pond, near the 
north shore of the Yellowstone Lake, 3 miles 
farther and 5 miles from Lake Hotel. The 
junction point of this road and the Loop 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 67 

Road is nearly 2 miles north of the Lake 
Hotel. 

Moran, Wyo., via Southern Entrance to Loop 
Road 

Moran, Wyo., is located on Jackson Lake, 
25 miles south of the southern boundary of 
Yellowstone Park. From Moran to the 
southern boundary the road lies to the east of 
Jackson Lake and Snake River. There are 
numerous camp sites along this section of the 
road. 

At the southern boundary, altitude 6,850 
feet, is the soldier station. A good camp site 
is near and there is good fishing for whitefish, 
native, Loch Leven, and Lake trout in Lewis 
and Snake Rivers. Next camp site is 8 miles 
farther on. 

Moose Falls is on Crawfish Creek, 1 mile 
north of southern boundary and 100 yards 
east of road. The road leads over the hills 
west of and parallel with the Lewis River to 
Lewis Falls (upper, 80 feet high; lower, 50 
feet high), altitude 7,650 feet, 9 miles from 
south boundary. While climbing the hill 
through the burned section the tourist should 



68 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

look back at the Teton Mountains to the south. 
A good camp site is just north of Lewis Falls, 
on Aster Creek, up which the road turns. , 
The next camp site is at the north end of | 
Lezvis Lake, 4 miles farther on. 

Lewis Lake, altitude 7,720 feet, is a heart-: 
shaped lake, 3 miles north and south by 2\ 
miles wide, lying to the west of Mount Sheri-^ 
dan. It has an extensive hot springs basin 
on its northwestern shore. Lewis River, 1 
which rises in Shoshone Lake farther north, 1 
flows through this lake on its way to Snake' 
River. There is good fishing in Lewis Lake! 
and its inlet for Lake trout. The next camp! 
sites after leaving Lewis Lake are 2 miles! 
north and 7 miles north. 

From Lewis Lake the road climbs gradually)) 
up the Continental Divide, altitude 8,000 feet, 
and then drops down to Yellowstone Lake, a 
mile and a half south of the Thumb. 

Prominent Geysers and Springs 

The most important geysers and springs are. 
listed below, together with their height, dura- 
tion and interval of eruption. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 69 
Prominent geysers and springs. 

[Based upon observations, season 1916.] 
NORRIS BASIN. 

Black Growler, steam vent only. 

Constant — ht. 1 15-35 ft.; dur, 2 5-15 sec.; int. 3 20-55 
sec. 

Congress Pool, large boiling spring. 

Echinus — ht. 30 ft. ; dur. 3 min. ; int. 45-50 min. 

Emerald Pool, beautiful hot spring. 

Hurricane — ht. 6-8 ft.; continuous. 

Minute Man — ht. 8-15 ft; dur. 15 to 30 sec; int. 
1 to 3 min. ; sometimes quiet for long periods. 

Monarch — ht. 100-125 ft.; dur. 6 min.; int. irregu- 
lar. 

New Crater — ht. 6-25 ft.; dur. 1 to 4 min.; int. 2 
to 5 min. 

Valentine — ht. 60 ft.; dur. 15 to 60 min.; int. ir- 
regular. 

LOWER BASIN. 

Black Warrior — dur. continuous. Small but in- 
teresting geyser. 

White Dome — ht. 10 ft; dur. 1 min.; int. 40 to 
60 min. Small but interesting geyser. 

Clepsydra — ht. 10-40 ft.; dur. few seconds; int. 3 
minutes. 

Fountain Geyser, seldom in eruption. 

Firehole Lake, peculiar phenomena. 

Great Fountain — nt. 75-150 ft. ; dur. 45 to 60 min. ; 
int. 8 to 12 hours. Spouts 4 or 5 times. 

Mammoth Paint Pots, basin of boiling clay. 

1 Height of eruption. 

2 Duration of eruption. 

3 Interval between eruptions. 



70 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Excelsior — lit. 200-300 ft.; dur. about y 2 hour. 
Ceased playing in 1888. 

Prismatic Lake, size about 250 by 400 feet; re- 
markable coloring. 

Turquoise Spring, about 100 feet in diameter. 

'UPPER BASIN. 

Artemisia — ht. 50 ft.; dur. 10 to 15 min. ; int. 24 
to 30 hours. Varies. 

Atomizer — ht. 2 ft. 

Bee Hive — ht. 200 ft.; dur. 6 to 8 min. ; int. 3 to 5 
times at 12-hour intervals following Giantess. 

Castle — ht. 50-75 ft.; dur. 30 min.; int. 24 to 26 
hours. Quiet 4 to 7 days, then plays 3 or 4 times at 
intervals stated. 

Cub, large — ht. 60 ft. ; dur. 8 min. ; int. with Lion- 
ess. Short chimney to Lion and Lioness. 

Cub, small — ht. 10-30 ft; dur. 17 min.; int. 2^ | 
hours. Short chimney to Lion and Lioness. 

Daisy — ht. 70 ft.; dur. 3 min.; int. 85 to 00 min. J 

Economic — ht. 20 ft.; dur. few sec. Seldom in j 
eruption. 

Fan — ht. 15-25 ft.; dur. 10 min.; int. irregular. | 

Giant — ht. 200-250 ft. ; dur. 60 min. ; int. 6 to 14 | 
days. 

Giantess — ht. 150-200 ft; dur. 12 to 36 hours; int. 
irregular, 5 to 40 days. 

Grand — ht. 200 ft.; dur. 15 to 30 min.; int. irreg- 
ular, 1 to 2 days. 

Grotto — ht. 20-30 ft.; dur. varies; int. 2 to 5 hours. 

Jewel — ht. 5-20 ft.; dur. about 1 min.; int. 5 min. 

Lion — ht. 50-60 ft; dur. about 2 to 4 min.; int. 
irregular. Usually 2 to 17 times a day. 

Lioness — .ht 80-100 ft; dur. about 1,0 min.; int. 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 71 

irregular. Played once in 1910, once in 1912, and 
once early in 1914. 

Mortar — ht. 30 ft.; dur. 4 to 6 min. ; int. irregular. 

Oblong — ht. 20-40 ft; dur. 7 min.; int. 8 to 15 
hours. 

Old Faithful — ht. 120-170 ft.; dur. 4 min.; int. 65 
to 80 min. Usual interval 75 minutes. 

Riverside — ht. 80-100 ft.; dur. 15 min.; int. about 
6 hours. Very regular. 

Sawmill — ht. 20-35 ft- ) dur. 1 to 3 hours ; int. k- 
regular. Usually 5 to 8 times a day. 

Spasmodic — ht. 4 ft.; dur. 20 to 60 min.; 1 to 4 
times a day. 

Splendid — ht. 200 ft. ; dur. 10 min. Not played 
since 1892. 

Turban — ht. 20-40 ft.; dur. 10 min. to 3 hrs. ; int. 
irregular. 
Notable springs : 

Black Sand Spring (about 55 by 60 feet). 

Chinaman. 

Emerald Pool. 

Morning Glory. 

Punch Bowl. 

Sponge. 

Sunset Lake. 

Notes on Fish in Yellowstone Park 

Black spotted or cut-throat trout (Salmo 
Mykiss). — Native to many park waters. 
Without doubt reached Upper Yellowstone 
and Yellowstone Lake from Pacific slope 
through Two-Ocean Pass during high water 
in spring. 



72 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

White fish (Cor eg onus clupeiformis). — Na- 
tive to Yellowstone River below falls, and I 
Gardiner, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers, i 
Planted in Yellowstone River above the falls, i 

Grayling (Thymallus Ontariensis Mon- 
tanus). — Native to Madison and Gallatin | 
Rivers and branches. 

Eastern brook trout (Salvelinus fontanalis) . 

— Planted. 

Loch Leven Trout (Salmo Trutti levensis). 

— Planted. 

Von Behr (German brown) trout (Salmo 
Fario). — Planted. 

Rainbow trout (Salmo Irideus). — Planted. 

Lake trout (Cristivomer Namaycush). — 
Planted. 

Land-locked salmon and black bass have 
been planted in the Park, but apparently did 
not thrive, as they have never been heard from 
since they were planted. 

Regarding Automobiles 

Permits for automobiles may be secured at 
the entrances to the Park on payment of $7.50, 
which covers such requirement for the season. 
Motorists intending to take their cars into the 
Yellowstone are advised to write the National 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 73 

Parks Service, Washington, D. C, for a full 
set of rules, regulations and maps. 



II 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 



Second in size of the United States parks, but | 
second to none in point of grandeur and in- 
terest, Glacier National Park comprises some 
915,000 acres in Northern Montana. Here 
are 1,430 square miles of wild and rugged 
land in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, 
wholly unspoiled by the hand of man, yet so | 
equipped with conveniences for the traveler I 1 
and so accessible by the Great Northern Rail- f 
way from both east and west that it is one 
of the finest recreation grounds in the world. 

Glacier National Park is unique among the ■> 
parks under Federal supervision. It takes its <■■ 
name from the many glaciers which are scat- 
tered among the mountain heights throughout 
its area. Within its borders there are more ' 
than 250 lakes, in whose clear depths are mir- : 
rored lofty mountains, some heavily wooded 
with primeval forests and others gaunt craggy 
74 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 75 

heights of inviting awesomeness. In Glacier 
Park you can come as close as you wish to 
the " great heart of nature " ; but even the old 
and infirm may see much of the Park with- 
out discomfort, owing to the automobile trans- 
portation between several of the camps and 
the well regulated hostelries that offer their 
large hospitality in various parts of the Park. 
The tourist season in Glacier National Park 
is from June fifteenth to October first. 

How to Reach the Park 

There are two principal entrances to Glacier 
Park, both of them on the main line of the 
Great Northern Railway. At the southeast- 
ern corner one enters at Glacier Park Sta- 
tion, and at the southwestern end the entrance 
is made at Belton. Either of these is quite 
accessible from Chicago and other eastern 
points, and Seattle and other parts of the 
northwest by way of the Great Northern Rail- 
way. From the southeast and middle west 
the Park is reached by the Chicago, Burling- 
ton & Quincy Railroad connecting at Billings, 
Mont., with the Great Northern Railway, and 
from the southwest via the Southern Pacific 



76 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

and the Union Pacific System to Butte, Mont., 
and thence by the Great Northern. 

Stopovers are allowed on all through tickets 
over the Great Northern Railway to allow of 
as long a sojourn in the Park as one desires. 
On round-trip tickets, during the Park season, 
this is without regard to the time limit indi- 
cated. 

Accommodations and Transportation — Costs 

Trips through the Park may be taken with 
equal advantage from either entrance, but to 
approach the Park from the east possibly gives 
one a more imposing impression of the gran 
deur of the scenery. It is here that is situated I 
the unique and beautiful Glacier Park Hotel 
(American Plan — $4 per day upward) not- 
able for its adaptation of chalet architecture | 
and the novel use of huge tree trunks in its 
construction. In the ten permanent camps 
operated by the Great Northern Railway ( 
throughout the Park very satisfactory accom- f 
modations and meals are furnished at $3 per 
day, so that even a long sojourn need not call |i 
for an excessive outlay of money. The camps 
are composed of log buildings, built in the 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 77 

Swiss chalet style, and are as comfortable and 
sanitary as they are picturesque. They are 
situated at the following points : Glacier Park 
Station (outside the Park), Two Medicine 
Lake, Cut Bank River, Lake St. Mary, Many 
Glacier Camp, Going-to-the-Sun Camp, Gun- 
sight Lake, Sperry Glacier, Granite Park, and 
Belton (outside the Park). All inquiries to 
these should be addressed to the Great North- 
ern Railway, Glacier Park Station, Mont. 

The following are camps or hotels under 
private management and situated on patented 
land: 

National Park Cabin Resort, at the foot of 
Lake McDonald. Prop., E. E. Dow, Belton, 
Mont. Rates $2 to $3 per day. 

Glacier Hotel, near head of Lake McDonald. 
Prop., J. E. Lewis, Lake McDonald P. O., 
Mont. Rates $4 to $6 per day. 

Park Hotel (Geduhn's), at head of Lake 
McDonald. Prop., James Conlon, trustee, 
Belton, Mont. Rates $2.50 to $3 per day. 

The methods of transportation in the Park 
are by automobile, horse stage, launches on the 
lakes, and saddle and pack horses. There are 
no fixed definite tours which must be con- 



78 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

formed to or made in a special number of 
days, but a large variety of tours can be made 
ranging from one-day auto tours to thirty- 
day horseback tours. 

Vehicles can be used between Belton and 
Lake McDonald, also between Glacier Park 
Station and Two Medicine, Cut Bank, St. 
Mary, and Many Glacier camps. Between all I 
other points the tourist must travel on horse- 
back or walk. 

Attention is particularly directed to the fact 
that walking tours offer an inexpensive way to 
see the Park. Permanent camps are located 
within a day's walk of each other, ranging 
from 8 to 16 miles apart. Walking tours can 
be made at a cost of $3.25 to $3.50 per day by 
using the chalet camps, or, if a small party 
takes its outfit and dispenses with guides and 
horses, the trip can be made for $1 per person 
per day, provisions being purchased as needed 
from the camps and hotels. 

Stage and Automobile Service 

All regular stage fares include transporta- 
tion of one piece of baggage weighing not more [ 
than 20 pounds. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 79 

Glacier Park Station, St. Mary Chalets, and 
Many Glacier Hotel on Lake McDermott. — 
Daily automobile service is maintained on the 
following schedules : 

Automobile schedule, Glacier Park Station to St. 
Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel. 

Leave Glacier Park at 8 a. m. and 1.30 p. m. 
Arrive St. Mary Chalets at 10.45 a. m. and 4.15 p. iff. 
Leave St. Mary Chalets at 1 1 a. m. and 4.30 p. m. 
Arrive Many Glacier Hotel at 12.45 P- m - and 6.15 
p. m. 

Automobile schedule, Many Glacier Hotel to St. Mary 
Chalets and Glacier Park Station. 

Leave Many Glacier Hotel at 8 a. m. and 1.30 p. m. 
Arrive St. Mary Chalets at 9.45 a. m. and 3.15 p. m. 
Leave St. Mary Chalets at 10 a. m. and 3.30 p. m. 
Arrive Glacier Park Hotel at 12.45 p. m. and 6.15 
p. m. 

Automobile Rates. 

Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Cha- 
lets $3.50 $7.00 

Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier 

Hotel 6.50 13.00 

St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier 

Hotel 3.00 6,00 



80 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 
Automobile Rates — Continued. 

Between- gg "gff 

Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medicine 

Chalets ' 1.50 3.00 

Glacier Park Hotel and Cut Bank 

Chalets 1 ; 5.00 

Belton and Lake McDonald 50 1.00 

1 No regular daily service between these points; rate ap- 
plies only for minimum of 4 round-trip fares. 

Glacier Park Station and Ttvo Medicine 
Chalets. — Daily automobile service is main- 
tained between Glacier Park Station and Two 
Medicine Chalets. 

Leave Glacier Park Hotel at 10 a. m. 
Arrive at Two Medicine Chalets at 11.30 a. m. 
Leave Two Medicine Chalets at 4 p. m. 
Arrive at Glacier Park Hotel at 5 p. m. 
Fare, $1.50 in each direction. 

Automobile rental. — Tourists desiring to 
rent private automobiles for special trips from 
Placier Park Hotel or Many Glacier Hotel 
may secure them from the Glacier Park Trans- 
portation Co. This service may be had only 
when cars are available without interrupting 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 81 

regular service. Charge is on the basis of 80 
cents a mile for the round trip, with a minimum 
charge of $40. No cars will be chartered for 
more than one day, except by special arrange- 
ment with the automobile company. Cars will 
not be chartered for one-way trips. 

A flat charge between Glacier Park and 
other points for special cars operating in char- 
ter service will be as follows : 

Glacier Park to Two Medicine and return. .. .$20.00 

Glacier Park to Cut Bank and return 35-0O 

Glacier Park to St. Mary and return 50.00 

Glacier Park to Many Glacier and return 85.00 

There will be an additional charge of $4 per 
hour for touring cars chartered by special par- 
ties for every idle hour during the company's 
working day, which is from 7 a. m. to 7 p. m. 
No charge will be made after 7 p. m. until 7 a. 
m. the following morning. 

Belt on, foot of Lake McDonald, and Fish 
Creek. — John Weightman (address, Belton, 
Mont.), maintains a stage service and the 
Glacier Park Transportation Co. an auto serv- 
ice between Belton Station, the foot of Lake 
McDonald, and Fish Creek, connecting with 



82 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

launches for all points on the lake and with 
all Great Northern passenger trains at Belton. 

Stage fares between Belton, Lake McDonald and 
Fish Creek. 

Belton and Lake McDonald, each way $0.50 

Belton and Fish Creek, each way 75 

Boat Service 

All regular boat fares include transportation 
of one piece of baggage weighing not more 
than 20 pounds. 

Upper St. Mary Lake. — Two round trips a j 
day will be made between St. Mary and Go- 1 
ing-to-the-Sun Chalets, connecting with the} 
automobile service between Glacier Park Sta-j 
tion, St. Mary Chalets, and Many Glacier j 
Hotel at Lake McDermott. Fare between St. | 
Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, 75 cents i 
in each direction. 

Launch schedule between St. Mary and Going-to- 
the-Sun Chalets. 

Leave Going-to-the-Sun Chalets at 8.45 a. m. and 
2 p. m. j 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 83 

Arrive St. Mary Chalets at 9.45 a. m. and 3 p. m. 
Leave St. Mary Chalets at 11. 15 a. m. and 5 p. m. 
Arrive Going-to-the-Sun Chalets at 12.15 p. m. and 
6 p. m. 



Lake McDonald. — Launch service is main- 
tained by Lewis & Kelley (Belton, Mont.), on 
Lake McDonald, connecting with all stages at 
the foot of the lake for points on the lake. 
Distance, 10 miles ; time, 1 hour. Fare one 
way to or from the head of the lake, 75 cents ; 
round trip, $1.25. Trunks and baggage, each 
way, 50 cents. Fare to Fish Creek, park of- 
fice, 25 cents each way. 

Rowboats on Two Medicine, St. Mary, Mc- 
Dermott, and Gnnsight Lakes. — At Two Medi- 
cine and St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier 
Hotel, McDermott, and Sunsight Lakes row- 
boats can be rented at the rate of 25 cents per 
hour, with a maximum cost of $1.50 per day. 

Horses and Guides 

The Park Saddle Horse Co. furnishes saddle 
and pack horse service, guides and camp out- 
fits. 



84 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Guides, saddle, and pack horses can be se- 
cured, or released, at Glacier Park Station, 
Many Glacier Hotel, Going-to-the-Sun Cha- 
lets, Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald, for 
non-scheduled, indefinite trips, at the following 
rates ; 

Rates for guides and horses. 

Guides, including horse and board, per day.... $5.00 
Saddle and pack horses, per day 3.00 

Park rules require 1 guide for every 10 per- 
sons or fraction of 10. Pack horses are not- 
needed for short one-day trips, but are neces- 
sary for long trips of several days. One pack 
horse will carry the dunnage of 10 people. 

All saddle horses are required to be equipped 
with waterproof slickers, which outfitters sup- 
ply free. 

The guides in charge of a party shall at all 
times precede the party and the assisting guides 
shall follow the party. 

It shall be the duty of the assisting guide to 
handle the pack horses, to prevent their crowd- 
ing each other or the horses of the tourists on 
mountain trails. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 85 

A complete horseback tour of Glacier Na- 
tional Park from Glacier Park Hotel, visiting 
all chalet groups, with several side trips to 
principal points of interest, such as Iceberg 
Lake, Cracker Lake, Sperry Glacier, etc., can 
be made in from 10 to 14 days. Tourists us- 
ing such horseback tours can travel at their 
own convenience without the necessity of fol- 
lowing a fixed schedule. 

What to See 

Probably the best way to see Glacier Park 
with moderate thoroughness is by taking a 
horseback tour. One cannot penetrate very 
far into the interior in any other way, but this 
is not to say that those who have to do their 
traveling in the Park by automobile miss the 
majority of its splendid attractions. 

If you leave the train at Belton, you will 
feel as though you had stepped out on the edge 
of Switzerland. A stone's throw from the 
chalet, across the emerald green Flathead 
River, is the Park. The mountains are not 
precipitous here, but there is promise in the 
sharp slopes, and the tonic air of this high- 



86 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

land country invites to action. Perhaps as 
dusk falls, a party of travelers arrives from a 
trip across the Divide. Men and women in 
outdoor clothes breeze in with a clatter of hob- 
nailed boots, throw off their Mackinaw coats 
and felt hats, and draw chairs around the log 
fire. Later you hear them recounting their 
adventures. Perhaps they ran into a snow- 
storm up near Gunsight Pass, or maybe they 
saw a grizzly bear shuffle across the trail, or it 
might have been that they had been fishing in 
Red Eagle Lake and had caught a ten-pound 
trout. All this sounds very good to you with 
the dust of cities still on your shoes, the cob- 
webs of the indoors on your brain, and to- 
morrow, when you will start out to see for j 
yourself, seems a long way off. 

A half-hour's ride behind four horses takes 
you across the green Flathead, sparkling in the - 
morning sun, into the confines of the Park. 
Just over the bridge the road ascends a short [ 
hill. You are unconsciously glad you have the 
inside track, and if you meet another vehicle 
coming in the opposite direction, grazing , 
wheels as it passes on the edge of what seems | 
a considerable cliff with an inhospitable river 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 87 

below, you justify your complacency by re- 
marking, " Well, I suppose these people are 
used to it." The hill is not very steep, though, 
and presently your wagon is bowling merrily 
over a broad, flat road through a forest of 
fragant pines. Life has suddenly developed 
into a different thing. A bird sings out a wel- 
come, and you are glad — this is freedom! 
Miles are shortened into rods, and only the 
knowledge that beyond lie lake and mountain 
and forest restrains your desire to linger right 
here. 

Lake McDonald, largest of all the bodies of 
water in Glacier National Park, is also the 
most accessible. Your drive of three miles 
from Belton brings you to the southern end, 
where there is an unassuming motor boat 
ready to take you to the northern. Put your 
camera away, fight the almost irresistible im- 
pulse to take snapshots of those mighty moun- 
tains so far ahead, for the results will not jus- 
tify the use of films in a region where you are 
not always in sight of a photographic supply 
store. There will be plenty of opportunities 
later when you are in the midst of things. Sit 
back, and as the boat cuts its way through the 



88 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

blue water, a mile and a half from either shore, 
consider the absence of every sight that would 
suggest commerce, and the fact that your 
grandchildren's children may see this un- 
changed. This is Never Never Land, where 
hours stand still, and lock-out time comes only 
when you are outside its borders. 

There has been singularly little of Mon- 
tana's picturesque history enacted in the re- 
gion now embraced by the Park. Lewis and 
Clark, on their expedition early in the Nine- 
teenth Century, passed from the northeastern 
to the southwestern part of the State. The 
gold mines of Virginia City and thereabouts 
were 300 miles south, and it was thither the 
" bad men " flocked with their guns and bowie 
knives that paved the way for so much profit- 
able material for the fiction magazines. Road- 
agents avoided this country, for there were no 
roads. The Blackfoot Indians, whose reserva- 
tion now adjoins the Park on the east, roamed j 
far afield in the early days, and when theyj 
came in contact with the white man it was 1 
generally on the upper reaches of the Missouri; 
River. 

They hunted in the mountains and fished iff 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 89 

the lakes that are now yours as an American 
citizen. That is a better thought as you glide 
over the surface of Lake McDonald than it 
possible can be as drawn on a printed page. 
Glacier Park is yours and your children's ! 

Near the upper end of the lake there is a 
camp called Glacier Hotel, rustic but thor- 
oughly comfortable. A cluster of log houses 
among the trees looks out across the water to 
mountains that rise in a sharp slant from near 
the shore. If your vision is keen, you can see 
wild mountain goats or sheep far up on those 
cliffs. Round about the log houses is a dense 
forest of tall, columnar trees into the depths 
of which you are impelled by a desire to go. 
There is a trail that leads through the timber 
to the northern end of the lake and a little 
beyond, where McDonald Creek spills white 
over the rocks. Follow along this way and 
you may have the good fortune to see some 
wild life. The birds, at any rate, will welcome 
you with song, squirrels will pause in their 
scamperings and look at you unafraid, and per- 
haps you will see a deer. Much of the charm 
of the Park is devoid of the spectacular, and 
the freedom here in the wilderness, and the 



go THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

simplicity and beauty of the unspoiled wood- 
lands, will remain a part of the wonder of it 
all, even in the presence of the most stupendous 
views. 

Let us have the horses saddled, leave our 
first camp, and strike out over the mountains 
to the east. It will be a ride to be remembered 
always, so don't stay behind. The horses are 
well used to the mountain trails; and even if 
you are not saddle-broken, you will always be 
glad that being a tenderfoot did not prevent 
you from going. " When I get back to New 
York," said a fellow-traveler whose enthusi- 
asm had led him to an unwise display of ama- 
teur horsemanship on the level stretches, " I'm 
going to insult every horse I meet." The 
moral is — take it easy ! 

The way to Sperry Glacier Camp is upward, 
and the trail leads down into the valleys and 
canyons between. The horses, perhaps there 
will be fifteen or twenty of them if you go j 
with a party, stretch out in Indian file, with a j 
guide to the fore and another bringing up the \ 
rear. This is real traveling, and the thought ] 
that it is the only way you can go — the way P 
the pioneers went — appeals to you. Pres- P 



• GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 91 

ently there is a swift running stream to cross. 
The first horse of the little caravan steps into 
the flood, halts and plunges his nose into the 
cold water. Then he starts across and the rest 
follow, each stopping for a drink before wad- 
ing through. Across this river there is an- 
other ford, and the novelty of riding up the 
bed of a little stream that empties into the 
larger. Then up the trail that leads into the 
recesses of the everlasting hills. You look 
across deep canyons to jagged cliffs, snow 
spotted in July ; gaze far out over waves of 
glinting peaks ; you pause to gather from your 
saddle a flower that has blossomed for you all 
alone here in the Rocky Mountains. The 
ponies forge ahead, and, as the line straggles 
along, your thoughts go back to the pioneers 
who crossed the divide when the nation was 
young. There were no camps then, conve- 
niently located a day's journey, or less, apart, 
and the Indians knew not the restrictions of 
reservations. To-day the majesty of the 
mountains is as undefiled and as poignant as 
then, and the region is still aloof from the des- 
ecrating hand of man, but we have been given 
the means of going there and enjoying in full 



92 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the glory of what in the early days was a ter- 
rible and dangerous barrier. 

Sperry Glacier Camp is up in the world — 
a cluster of log houses similar to those on 
Lake McDonald, but built to resemble the 
chalets of the Swiss mountains — and, having 
reached it after several hours in the saddle, 
it is a haven — nay, a heaven — of rest. The 
guides take care of the horses, and the trav- 
elers — those to whom the outdoors calls nat- 
urally — turn to the little stream near by for 
ante-prandial ablutions, or, in parlance more 
current in these parts, a " wash-up before 
grub." 

Sperry Glacier is half a mile — bee-line 
measurement — from the camp, but the trip 
there and back requires an afternoon. The 
way lies over an up-and-down, zigzag trail j 
that has been cut out of solid rock. There j 
is a wonderful satisfaction in " coming down I 
off this feather bed of civilization," as Stev- j 
enson puts it, " and finding the globe granite | 
underfoot," even at the risk of temporary dis- i 
comfort to one's breathing apparatus. Fi- 
nally the glacier is reached, and unless you arej 
something more — or less — than human, you j 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 93 

will reach down for a handful of the snow 
that covers the ice beneath, and pelt your 
nearest neighbor with it, thinking the while 
how you will tell the people back home of the 
day in June, or July or August when you in- 
dulged in the luxury of a snow-ball fight. 
" They won't believe it," you muse whimsically, 
" but it makes a good story." 

From Sperry Glacier Camp the way is 
over a trail that leads up beyond the timber 
line, skirting lakes that in the far distance 
below look like glassy pools, clinging to 
mountainsides, and climbing up, up, up to the 
tip top of the continent at Gunsight Pass. It 
is here that you cross the Great Divide, the 
culminating point in a series of scenic cli- 
maxes that come in quick succession. To the 
south, far down the mountainside, Lake 
Louise reflects the blue of the sky and the 
gray of the peaks ; to the north, nestling at 
the base of a mighty mountain, a mother of 
many glaciers, lies Gunsight Lake, 3,000 feet 
below, a gem in the great mosaic of rock and 
forest and sky and snow that is titanically 
spread out. 

Beside the lake, once you have climbed 



94 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

down the trail that descends to it in short 
zigzags, you will end your day's journey at 
another of the chalet camps. There in the 
wilds you will rest and be refreshed ; you will 
be lulled to sleep by the shrill yelp of the 
coyotes, and find yourself wondrously satis- 
fied with this life in the open. 

The next stage of the journey is along the 
St. Mary River, which flows out of Gun- 
sight Lake, crosses a green plateau, dives 
between the twin peaks of Citadel and Going- 
to-the-Sun, and empties into Lake St. Mary, 
near the head of which is Going-to-the-Sun 
Camp. Here, where the shores of the lake 
converge, is one of the most beautiful spots) 
in the Park. To the west rises the mountain 
the Indians called Going-to-the-Sun ; sloping) 
to the north is Goat Mountain; and between | 
the two the cold white of Sexton Glacien 
stands out against the rocks. The thought 
comes to you that these Rocky Mountains) 
are appropriately named. 

Here, at the Going-to-the-Sun Camp, is am 
opportunity for those whose enthusiasm for; 
the saddle has waned to complete the trip ini 
another way. It is only an hour or so by 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 95 

launch to the camp at the lower end of the 
lake, and there one may be met by an auto- 
mobile for the return to — I had almost said 
" civilization," but if that implies an asper- 
sion on the life of fulness in Glacier National 
Park, it shall be left unsaid. 

The shores of Lake St. Mary are more 
mountainous than those of that other great 
and beautiful body of water, Lake McDonald, 
and the region is in consequence more pic- 
turesque. Sometimes, however, a windstorm 
will sweep down between the mountains and 
kick up a sea that covers the surface with 
white-caps and sends big breakers rolling in- 
shore, and when that happens it is necessary 
to make the trip down the trail on horseback 
or, better still, wait over at the Narrows 
Camp until the Lake is calm again. You can 
fish or you can hunt (with a camera) or you 
can take excursions into the mountains ; time 
will not hang heavily on your hands. 

It is thirty or forty or fifty miles from St. 
Mary Camp at the lower end of the lake 
back to Glacier Park Station, the eastern 
gateway to the Park, depending on whether 
you stop over at Cutbank or Two Medicine, 



g6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

or both, or go direct. The shortest way is 
by automobile — about three hours of the most 
pleasurable motoring imaginable. A few 
miles from Lake St. Mary the road leaves the 
Park and strikes out across the gaunt, rolling 
prairie land of the Blackfoot Indian Reserva- 
tion, on which you may see really noble red 
men. It winds in and out among the low hills, 
between clumps of aspen and cottonwoodj 
across running streams, through strange hoi-' 
lows and over elevations from which you cam 
look north into Canada. Behind you and off| 
to the west are the gleaming mountains;; 
ahead, and to the east, stretches the prairie' 
that once knew the thunder of buffalo herds; 
and the Indian warwhoop, but now hears only! 
the occasional whirr of a gasoline engine and! 
the hoofbeats of bronchos. You will feel thei 
fascination of the West in all this bigness and 1 
freedom and it will be strange if you do not 
yield to the invitation to put in at Two Medi-j 
cine Lake to spend another night in the midstj 
of the mountains. You feel as a boy who may, 
not stay in swimming longer than a certain 
allotted time, and when that time has passed; 
wants " just five minutes more." 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 97 

The way to Two Medicine is over a forest 
road so new that you can see the scars on the 
trees where the trail was blazed before it. 
Except for the birds and an occasional creek 
that has come from the glaciers high above, 
there is absolute quiet. It is worth while, by 
the way, to encourage any natural loquacity 
that may be a part of your guide's make-up. 
He will converse intelligently and often with 
much native humor on any topic from 
woman's suffrage to the possibility of meeting 
with a grizzly bear. He will no doubt sug- 
gest a twenty-minute detour from the road to 
the Trick Falls ; and if you follow him down 
the wild woodland trail, you will be rewarded 
by the sight of a river pouring out of a slit in 
the rocks down to the river bed some twenty- 
five feet below. When the water is flowing 
with greater volume, it tumbles over the top 
of the cliff as well, making a double cascade, 
as high again but less curious. 

The camp at Two Medicine Lake is almost 
directly at the water's edge. It faces Mt. 
Rockwell, a steep and sharply-pointed peak 
like a sugar-loaf, which seems half a mile 



9 8 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

down the lake and is in reality three. Shad- 
owing it on the north is Rising Wolf Moun- 
tain, with tiny streams spilling down its side 
into the lake. All about is the forest. It 
seems like a little world in itself, this niche in 
the Rockies, a place where everything of yes- 
terday and of to-morrow is out of place — can- 
not come in. 

From Two Medicine Camp back to the Gla- 
cier Park Hotel and the railroad is only half 
a day's easy ride on horseback, or an hour or 
so by motor, over the Blackf oot Indian Res- i 
ervation. 

An alternative horseback route through the! 
Park from the head of Lake McDonald foU 
lows McDonald Creek northward to Granite! 
Park Camp, with an opportunity on the way 
for a side trip of a few miles to Avalanchej 
Basin. The next stage of the journey takesj 
the tourist to Many Glacier Camp, on Mc-i 
Dermott Lake, whence he may visit Iceberg, 
Lake, in which huge pieces of ice are floating 
in summertime. 

From Many Glacier Camp there is a trail, 
to Going-to-the-Sun Camp, meeting the route 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 99 

Independent Camping Trips 

Glacier National Park contains many beau- 
tiful camping spots, and camping tours inde- 
pendent of hotels or chalets are popular for 
tourists who like to "rough it." The Park 
Saddle Horse Co., licensed outfitters in Gla- 
cier Park, are prepared to furnish complete 
outfits at the following prices for trips of 10 
or more days ; 

Rates for Complete Camping Tours. 

Cost per day 
per person. 

1 person $25.00 

2 persons 15.75 

3 persons 12.65 

4 persons 12.40 

5 persons 11.30 

6 persons io.6o 

7 persons 10.00 

8 persons 9.70 

9 persons 9.60 

10 persons or more 9.50 

Foregoing rates include the necessary 
guides, cooks, saddle horses, pack horses, pro- 
visions, tents, cooking utensils, stoves, and 
everything except blankets. Tourists are ad- 
vised to bring their own blankets or bedding, 
or can rent blankets from the outfitters at $1 
per pair. 



ioo THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Trips from Hotels and Camps 
Below are given the principal trips from the 
hotel and camps. Road trips can also be made 
on horseback or on foot; trail trips can be 
made on horseback or on foot unless otherwise 
indicated. 

From Glacier Park Hotel (Glacier Park Station 
and Post Office) 

(Altitude 4,800 feet.) 

St. Mary Camp (4,500 feet). — Road; 32 
miles ; automobile stage fare $3 in each direc- j 
tion. 

Two Medicine Camp (5,200 feet) on Tzvo j 
Medicine Lake. — Road; 12 miles; stage fare! 
$1.25 in each direction. 

Mount Henry (8,875 feet). — Trail. From 
Mount Henry can be obtained a splendid view 
of the peaks surrounding Two Medicine Lake. 
This trip can be extended to Two Medicine I 
Camp (5,200 feet) and the return made by j 
stage. Distances : Glacier Park Hotel to 
Mount Henry, 7 miles ; Mount Henry to Two 
Medicine Camp, 4 miles ; Two Medicine Camp 
to Glacier Park Station by stage road, 12 miles. 

Cut Bank Camp (5,200 feet). — Road; 22 
miles ; stage fare, $2.25 in each direction. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 101 

From Two Medicine Camp on Two Medicine 
Lake 

(Altitude, 5,200 feet.) 

Trick Falls (5,000 feet). — Road; 2 miles. 

Upper Two Medicine Lake (5,600 feet). — 
Trail, or boat and trail ; 4 miles. 

Bighorn Basin (6,000 feet). — Trail; 4 
miles. 

Dawson Pass (7,500 feet). — Trail; 6 miles. 

Glacier Park Hotel (4,800 feet). — Road; 
12 miles; stage fare $1.25 in each direction. 

Glacier Park Hotel (4,800 feet). — Trail 
by way of Mount Henry (8,875 feet) ; 11 
miles. 

Mount Henry (8,875 feet). — Trail; 4 miles. 
From Mount Henry can be obtained a fine 
view of the peaks surrounding Two Medicine 
Lake. 

Cut Bank Camp (5,200 feet). — Trail; 16 
miles. 

From Cut Bank Camp on North Fork of Cut 
Bank Creek 

(Altitude, 5,200 feet.) 

Cut Bank Pass (7,861 feet). — Trail; 7 
miles. From Cut Bank Pass mav be obtained 



iQ2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

a fine view of Stimson Mountain (10,155 
feet) and Mount St. Nicholas (9,385 feet). 
As far as known Mount St. Nicholas has never 
been ascended. 

Triple Divide Peak (8,001 feet). — Distance 
6 miles. There is no trail, and this trip should 
be taken by mountain climbers only. Triple 
Divide Peak separates the headwaters of the 
Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Ocean, and Hud- 
son Bay. 

Glacier Park Hotel (4,800 feet). — Road; 
22 miles ; stage fare, $2.25 in each direction. 

Two Medicine Camp (5,200 feet).— Trail; 
16 miles. 

St. Mary Camp (4,500 feet). — Trail and; 
road; 16 miles. 

From St. Mary Camp on St. Mary Lake 

(Altitude, 4,500 feet.) 

Red Eagle Lake (4,702 feet). — Trail; 8 
miles; good fishing. 

Red Eagle Pass (7,500 feet) and glacier.- 
Trail; 16 miles. 

Going-to-the-Sun Camp (4,500 feet).- 
Launch ; 8 miles ; fare, 75 cents in each direc-, 
tion. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 103 

Cut Bank Camp (5,200 feet). — Road and 
trail; 16 miles. 

Many Glacier Camp on Lake McDermott 
(4,900 feet). — Road; 23 miles; stage fare, 
$2.50 in each direction. 

Many Glacier Camp on Lake McDermott 
(4,900 feet). — Trail; 16 miles. 

Glacier Park Station (4,800 feet). — Road; 
32 miles; automobile stage fare, $3 in each 
direction. 

From Going-to-the-Sun Camp on St. Mary 
Lake 

(Altitude, 4,500 feet.) 

Roes Basin (6,500 feet). — Poor trail; 6 
miles. 

Sexton Glacier (7,000 feet). — No trail; 6 
miles. 

Piegan Pass (7,200 feet). — Trail; 12 miles. 

Many Glacier Camp on Lake McDermott 
(4,900 feet). — Trail by way of Piegan Pass 
(7,200 feet) ; 22 miles. This trip gives good 
views of Siyeh and Piegan Mountains, the 
Garden Wall, and Grinnell Glacier; on this 
trip Lakes Grinnell, Altyn, and McDermott 
are passed. 



104 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

St. Mary Camp (4,500 feet). — Launch, 3 
miles, fare 75 cents in each direction. 

Gunsight Camp (5,300 feet). — Trail; 9 
miles. 

From Gunsight Camp 

(Altitude, 5,300 feet.) 

Going-to-the-Snn Camp (4,500 feet). — 
Trail ; 9 miles. 

S perry Camp (9,000 feet). — Trail crossing 
Gunsight Pass ; 8 miles. 

Many Glacier Camp on Lake McDermott 
(4,900 feet). — Trail by way of Piegan Pass; 
23 miles. 

Black feet Glacier (7,000 feet). — Trail; 2 
miles. This is the largest glacier in the Park, 
having an area of 3 square miles. The gla- 
cier is especially dangerous in the vicinity of 
the upper cascades. Visitors are not allowed 
to go upon it unless accompanied by competent 
guides who should be supplied with ropes, 
belts, creepers, alpenstocks, and emergency 
equipment. Each visitor to the glacier should 
have an alpenstock or stout stick 6 or 7 feet 
long. The alpenstock should be used to sound 
for blind crevasses and in case a person breaks 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 105 

through the ice, the alpenstock should be 
thrown across the crevasse in order to prevent 
a fall to the bottom. 



From Many Glacier Camp on Lake McDermott 

(Altitude, 4,900 feet.) 

Daily during the season side trips will 
be conducted from Many Glacier Camp. 
Guides and horses will be available for a reg- 
ular daily trip to either Iceberg Lake or 
Cracker Lake at flat rate of $3 per person 
regardless of number in party. Parties leave 
Many Glacier Camp at 9 a. m., returning to 
camp about 5p.11. 

St. Mary Camp (4,500 feet). — Road; 23 
miles ; fare, $2.50 in each direction. 

St. Mary Camp (4,500 feet). — Trail; 16 
miles. 

Going-to-the-Sun Camp (4,500 feet) by way 
of Piegan Pass (7,200 feet). — Trail ; 22 miles. 
This trip gives good views of Siyeh and Pie- 
gan Mountains, the Garden Wall, Grinnell 
Glacier, Lakes Grinnell, Altyn, and McDer- 
mott. 

Iceberg Lake (6,000 feet). — Trail; 7 miles. 



io6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Cracker Lake (6,000 feet). — Trail; 7 
miles. 

Grinnell Lake (5,000 feet). — Trail; 5 
miles; footpath to Grinnell Glacier (7,000 
feet), distance 2 miles from Grinnell Lake. 

Piegan Pass (7,200 feet) and Garden Wall. 
— Trail; 10 miles. 

Swift current Pass (7,176 feet). — Trail; 7 
miles. 

From Sperry Camp 

(Altitude, 8,000 feet.) 

Gunsight Camp (5,300 feet). — Trail by way 
of Gunsight Pass ; 8 miles. 

Glacier Hotel (Lewis's), Lake McDonald 
(3,200 feet). — Trail; 7 miles; 2 miles farther 
to Park Hotel. 

Sperry Glacier (9,000 feet). — Trail; 2 
miles. This is a steep trail and horses may 
be used to the foot of the escarpment under ' 
the south rim of the glacier, but walking is 
recommended. The escarpment may be 
climbed by means of an iron ladder bolted to 
the rock, or by way of zigzag goat trails. 
Whichever method of ascent is attempted, vis- 
itors should be accompanied by competent! 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 107 

guides provided with ropes. While this gla- 
cier is less broken than Blackfeet Glacier, ex- 
plorations should not be attempted without a 
guide. 

From Glacier and Park Hotels at Head of Lake 
McDonald 

(Altitude, 3,200 feet.) 

There will be maintained daily, July J 
to September 1, inclusive, guide and saddle 
horse service between Going-to-the-Sun Camp 
and Glacier Hotel (Lewis's) on Lake Mc- 
Donald via Sperry Camp and Gunsight Pass, 
in both directions. Rate per person, regard- 
less of number in party, $7. Two days re- 
quired to make the trip, the night being spent 
at Gunsight Camp. Horses leave Going-to- 
the-Sun Camp and Lewis Hotel at 9 a. m. 

Paradise Canyon. — Trail ; 4 miles from Gla- 
cier Hotel, 2 miles from Park Hotel. 

Avalanche Basin (3,885 feet). — Trail; 9 
miles from Glacier Hotel, 7 miles from Park 
Hotel. 

Trout Lake (3,880 feet). — Trail; 8 miles 
from Glacier Hotel, 9 miles from Park Hotel. 

Lake Ellen Wilson (5,914 feet). — Trail; 



io8 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

10 miles from Glacier Hotel, 12 miles from 
Park Hotel. 

Stanton Mountain (7,744 feet). — Trail to 
the summit; 7 miles from Glacier Hotel, 5 
miles from Park Hotel. 

S perry Camp (8,000 feet). — Trail; 7 miles 
from Glacier Hotel, 9 miles from Park Hotel. 

Fishing 

The lakes and streams of Glacier National 
Park abound in fish. The varieties are the 
small flat trout, the cutthroat, Dolly Varden, 
and rainbow trout, varying in size from half a 
pound to the large bull and Mackinaw trout 
weighing up to 20 pounds. Of these the 
gamest is the cutthroat, so called from the 
two streaks of red running parallel beneath 
its gills, which inhabits most of the streams 
and many of the lakes. Bull trout are found 
mostly in St. Mary Lake. They can be de- 
pended upon to put up a hard fight. Most of 
the trout rise to a fly during June, July, and 
August. Grasshoppers are used also at times 
when they refuse the fly. In September spin- 
ners with a piece of fresh meat are effective. 

All persons desiring to fish in the waters of 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 1D9 

the Glacier National Park must obtain a fish- 
ing license under the laws of the State of 
Montana. The fees for these licenses are as 
follows : 

Citizens of the United States who have resided in 
the State of Montana for six months last past, $1. 

Citizens of the United States who have not re- 
sided in the State of Montana for six months last 
past, $2. 

Persons not citizens of the United States, irrespec- 
tive of the length of time they have resided in the 
State, $5. 

Licenses may be obtained from the State 
fish and game warden, Helena, Mont. The 
applicant for a license must give his residence, 
post-office address, business, age, height, 
weight, color of hair and color of eyes. All 
fishing must be done in conformity with the 
State laws regarding open season, size of fish, 
and limit of catch. 

Tzvo Medicine Camp. — Two Medicine Lake 
is at present being stocked with fish fry by the 
Government and fishing is therefore tempo- 
rarily prohibited, but good fishing will be 
found in the Two Medicine River below Trick 
Falls, about 2 miles from camp. The trout 
were never able to get above Trick Falls on 



no THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

account of the great height and so transplant- 
ing was necessary. 

Cut Bank Camp. — This camp is located on 
the banks of the Oat Bank River, which may 
be fished both ways from the camp for a dis- 
tance of from 3 to 5 miles with good results. 
Flat trout and cutthroat are the principal va- 
rieties. I 

St. Mary Camp. — St. Mary Lake is the! 
home of the " Mackinaw " trout, which are |; 
caught by trolling from a row boat. Red- 
Eagle Lake located a few miles from St. Mary' 
Camp, has the reputation of being one of the, 1 '; 
best fishing spots in the Park. There is also; 
good fishing in Red Eagle Creek. 

Going-to-the-Sun Camp. — Baring Creek, 
which empties into St. Mary Lake about a 
mile above the camp will be found worthy of 
a visit. For the large Mackinaw trout the 
upper end of the lake is a good ground. 

Many-Glacier Camp. — Very good fishing is- 
to be had near this camp in the Swiftcurrenf 
River, in Canyon Creek, and in Cracker Lake! 

Lake McDonald. — Good fishing may be hac' 
at all times in Lake McDonald. McDonald' 
Creek and Avalanche Lake may also be fished 



Ill 

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 

In the midst of the Sierra Nevada, compris- 
ing a section 36 miles long and 48 broad, Yo- 
semite National Park is situated in the coun- 
ties of Tuolumne, Mariposa, and Mono, Cali- 
fornia. Its present area of 719,622 acres, or 
1,124 square miles, entitles it to third place 
among the national parks of the United States. 
It was prior to 1905, some 556 square miles 
greater in extent, but the boundaries were 
changed by act of Congress. 

" The famous Yosemite Valley," says John 
Muir, the well-beloved apostle of the western 
forests, in his splendid book " Our National 
Parks," 1 " lies in the heart of it, and it includes 
the headwaters of the Tuolumne and Merced 
rivers, two of the most songful streams in the 
world ; innumerable lakes and waterfalls and 
smooth silky lawns ; the noblest forests, the 

1 Houghton, Mifflin Co. 1909, pp. 77-78. 
Ill 



ii2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

loftiest granite domes, the deepest ice-sculp- 
tured canyons, the brightest crystalline pave- 
ments, and snowy mountains soaring into the 
sky twelve and thirteen thousand feet, arrayed 
in open ranks and spiry pinnacled groups par- 
tially separated by tremendous canyons and 
amphitheaters. . . ." 

The musical appellation of this park sig^ 
nifles in the Indian tongue " full-grown grizzly} 
bear." 

The regular tourist season is from May i 
to November i, but, unlike most of the nai 
tional parks, the Yosemite is accessible anc 
hotel accommodations are furnished through- 1 
out the year. Snow sports in the winter ar^, 
an attraction to many tourists in addition t( 
the beauties incident to the season. 

How to Reach the Park 

The Yosemite is about 140 miles from Sar 
Francisco. It is reached from Merced, Cal.j 
on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe am 
the Southern Pacific Railroads, thence by wai 
of the Yosemite Valley Railroad to El Por 
tal, near the western boundary of the Parl^ 
Stage lines run from the terminus of the Yo! 

1 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 113 

Semite Valley Railroad to Yosemite Valley 
within the Park and from the latter point 
through Wawona on the southern boundary of 

the Park to the Mariposa Big Tree Grove. 

v 

Accommodations and Transportation — Costs 

Government regulations make the cost of 
visiting Yosemite Park moderate. Personal 
taste, however, in the matter of accommoda- 
tions may allow for considerable variation. 
Following is a schedule of prices ; 

Desmond Park Service Co. — Hotels and Camps 

The following hotels and permanent camps 
in the park are operated by the Desmond Park 
Service Co. : 

Sentinel Hotel: 

Room without bath, including meals, 
American plan. Baths in detached room 
free — 

2 persons in room, per day, each $4.00 

1 person in room, per day, each 5.00 

2 persons in room, per week, each... 25.00 

1 person in room, per week, each. ... 30.00 

2 persons in room, per month, each.. 105.00 
I person in room, per month, each,,, 126.00 



ii4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

New Glacier Point Hotel: 

Room without bath, including meals, 
American plan — 
2 persons in room, per day, each $4.00 

1 person in room, per day, each 5.00 

2 persons in room, per week, each... 25.00 

1 person in room, per week, each 30.00 

2 persons in room, per month, each.. 105.00 

1 person in room, per month, each. .. 126.00 
Rooms with bath, meals American plan — 

3 persons or more in room, per day, 

each 6.00 

2 persons in room, per day, each.... 6.50 1 
1 person in room, per day, each 7.0O1 

It is especially understood that where con- 
necting rooms have access to private 
bath, each room is to be considered as 
having private bath unless one or more 
of the rooms are locked off from the 
bathroom. 

Yosemite Falls Camp : 

Rate, including meals, American plan. 
Tub and shower baths free in detached 
building; wooden bungalows used for 
bedrooms — 

Per day, each , 4-0< 

Per week, each 25.0^ 

Per month, each 105.0^ 

^See price for rooms occupied by one 
person. 
1 See note on page 115, 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 115 

Swimming pool rates — 

Use of pool, showers, bathing suit and 

towels, dressing room and electric 

hair driers $0.50 

Same price will be charged if person 

provides self with own bathing suit 

and towels. 
5 tickets 2.00 

Camp Ahwahnee: 

Board and lodging — 

One person in tent, per day 3.75 

One person in tent, per week 22.75 

One person in tent, per month 90.00 

Two persons in tent, per day 3.00 

Two persons in tent, per week 17.50 

Two persons in tent, per month 67.50 

El Capitan Camp: 

Rate, including meals, American plan. 
Tub and shower baths free in detached 
building; canvas cottages used for bed- 
rooms — 

Per day, each 2.75 

Per week, each 17.50 

Per four weeks, each , 65.00 

*See price for rooms occupied by one 
person. 

1 The bungalow sleeping accommodations supplied for camps 
and mountain lodges are arranged for two persons and the 
sleeping rooms are separated by means of curtains. An extra 
charge of $i per day will be made for the exclusive use of 
bungalows by one person. 



n6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Tenaya Lake Lodge: 

Rate, including meals, American plan. 
Shower baths in detached building free. 
Sleeping quarters in canvas bungalows — 

Per day, each $4.00 

Per week, each 25.00 

Per month, each 105.00 

1 See price for rooms occupied by one 
person. 
Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp : 

Rates, including meals, American plan. 
Shower baths in detached building free. 
Sleeping quarters in canvas bungalows — 

Per day, each 4.00 

Per week, each 25.00 

Per month, each 105.00 j 

2 See price for rooms occupied by one 
person. 
Merced Lake Lodge: 

Lodge rates, including meals, American 
plan. Shower baths in detached build- 
ing free. Sleeping quarters in canvas 
bungalows — 

Per day, each 4.00 

Per week, each 25.00 

Per month, each 105.00 

*See price for rooms occupied by one 
person. 
1 The bungalow sleeping accommodations supplied for camps 
and mountain lodges are arranged for two persons and the | 
sleeping rooms are separated by means of curtains. An extra 
charge of $1 per day will be made for the exclusive use of 
bungalows by one person, 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 117 

At the Yosemite Falls and Tuolumne Soda 
Springs Camps, Tenaya and Merced Lake 
Lodges, Sentinel and Glacier Point Hotels, 
the following rates apply: 

Rates will be computed on the basis of $1 
for each meal, and $1 and upward for lodg- 
ing, according to class of accommodations. For 
instance, on the basis of $5 per day, lodging 
and breakfast would be $3, viz., $2 for room 
and $1 for the meal. All fractions of a day will 
be arrived at on this basis. ■ 

The following lodging and meal rates will 
apply at El Capitan Camp: 

Meal rates with lodging: 

Meals, each $0.50 

Lodging, each 1.25 

Transient meal rates : 

Breakfast .50 

Lunch 75 

Dinner 75 

The following lodging and meal rates will 
apply at Camp Ahwahnee: 

Meals : 

Each $0.75 

Per day 2.25 

Lodging 75 

Baths, each , , , , , .25 



ii8 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

A deduction of 50 cents from the regular daily rates 
will be accorded guests when lunch is taken at Gla- 
cier Point. 

Rates for children when accompanied by 
parents or guardians : 

Children 8 years of age and over, full rate. 
Children under 8 years of age and occupying seat 
in dining room, one-half of regular rate will be 
charged. 

Camp Curry 

Authorised rates at Camp Curry, beneath Glacier 

Point, on south side of valley, operated 

by the Curry Camping Co. 

Board and lodging: 

One person, per day $ 2.75 

One person, per week 17-50 

One person, per four weeks 65.00 

Children between 5 and 8 years of age, 

per day 2.00 

Children between 3 and 5 years of age, 

per day 1.50 

All children under 3 years of age, per day. 1.00 
Guests desiring extra tent room will be 
chaiged as follows: 
Tent for four people, occupied by two 

people, per day extra, each 1.00 

Tent for two people, occupied by one 

person, per day extra 1.00 

. Extra tent rates will be applied only between 
June 1 and Aug. 15. 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 119 

Breakfast .,»<»..,,,, $0.50 

Dinner or lunch 75 

Lodging 1.25 

Meals in connection with lodging. . .. .50 

For a regular rate of $2.75 per day, 50 cents 

will be deducted for meals taken at the Glacier 

Point Hotel. 
Meals sent to tents or served out of meal 

hours, 25 cents extra. 

Tub and shower baths, each .35 

3 tickets for 1 .00 

5 tickets for 1.50 

Plunge baths, including shower, together with 
use of bathing suit: 

1 ticket 50 

5 tickets 2.00 

Moving-picture shows not to exceed per hour 

per person 10 

Dancing, per evening per couple, not to exceed .25 

Amusements 

Swimming. — There are swimming pools at 
Yosemite Falls Camp and Camp Curry. 

Boating. — The Desmond Park Service Co. 
has rowboats and launches for hire on Tenaya, 
Dog 1 , Washburn, and Merced Lakes. Rates: 
Rowboats, first hour, 50 cents ; each additional 
hour, 25 cents; per day, $2; launches, excur- 
sions, per hour, 8 persons or over, each person, 



120 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

50 cents; exclusive Use of launch, first hour, 
$3; each additional hour, $2; per day, $15. 
Over six hours, day rates are charged. 

Fishing. — Persons desiring to fish in the 
waters of the Yosemite National Park must 
secure a sporting fishing license, as required 
by the laws of California. These laws pro- 
vide that every person over the age of 18 years 
who obtains fish without first taking out a 
license is guilty of a misdemeanor. The li- 
cense fees are as follows : 

To the citizens of the United States who are bona 
fide residents of the State of California, $1. 

To the citizens of the United States not bona tide 
residents of the State of California, and to persons 
not citizens of the United States, $3. 

These licenses may be obtained from any 
county clerk, from the State board of fish 
and game commissioners, or at any hotel or 
camp in the park, or at the general store in 
Yosemite village. The main office of the State 
board of fish and game commissioners is lo- 
cated in the Mills Building, San Francisco, 
and branch offices are located as follows : 
Forum Building, Sacramento; Consolidated 
Realty Building, Los Angeles ; Forsyth Build- 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 121 

ing, Fresno. Every person applying for a li- 
cense must give his residence, age, height, na- 
tionality, color of eyes and of hair. All fish- 
ing must be done in conformity with the State 
laws regarding open season, size of fish, and 
limit of catch. 

Public Utilities and Conveniences 

Information bureaus. — The National Park 
Service maintains an information bureau at 
the supervisor's office, in Yosemite, and those 
in charge will supply accurate information 
concerning points of interest, trails, camping 
facilities, camping locations, fishing places, 
etc. 

An information bureau is also maintained by 
the Desmond Park Service Co. in the Trans- 
portation Building, Yosemite, but information 
can also be obtained at any of the hotels, camps, 
lodges or garages. 

I Medical sendee. — Yosemite Valley has 
among other conveniences a hospital build- 
ing where medical and surgical service is pro- 
vided under authority granted by the Secre- 
tary of the Interior. Two competent physicians 
and surgeons, with attendant nurses, are in 



122 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

charge of the building and will promptly at- 
tend patients at any place within the park. 
Prices are regulated by the Secretary of the 
Interior. 

Laundry. — Adequate laundry facilities are 
provided in the valley. 

Telephone and telegraph. — Long distance 
telephone, Western Union and Wells Fargo 
service are available in Yosemite village. Tele- 
phonic communication may be had to all in- 
terior hotels, camps, and lodges, and long-dis- 
tance and telegraph messages may be sent from 
interior points and delivered by telephone to 
such points. 

Messenger service. — A messenger service 
is in operation between the telegraph office 
in the village and established camps on the 
floor of the valley. A charge of 25 cents 
is made for delivery of a telegram or package, 
or the performance of an errand from the vil- 
lage to a camp. 

General store. — A general store and camp- 
rental depot is conducted in Yosemite village 
by the Desmond Park Service Co. A great 
variety of goods, clothing and other commodi- 
ties, including toilet articles and proprietary 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 123 

medicines, are kept in stock. A confectionary 
counter, soda fountain, and a curio section are 
among the departments of the store. The 
Yosemite post office is also located in the store. 

Transportation Within the Park 

There are several transportation lines oper- 
ated under concessions from the Department 
of the Interior, but every person is at liberty 
to provide his own means of transportation, 
subject to regulations. 

The authorized rates are as follows : 

Between El Portal and Yosemite Valley 

Authorised rates of the Desmond Park Service Co. 
Between El Portal and Yosemite Valley, in 

either direction $2.50 

Round trip, when purchased in connection with 

railroad ticket 4.50 

Authorised rates of Big Trees Auto Stage Co. 
From El Portal to Tuolumne Big Trees, thence 

to Yosemite Valley $7-50 

From Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Big Trees, 

thence to El Portal 7.50 

Authorised rates of Big Trees Auto Stage Co. in con- 
junction with the Desmond Park Service Co. 

From El Portal to Yosemite Valley, via Tuol- 
umne Big Trees and return via El Portal 
road direct ,.,,,,,., $10.00 



124 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

From El Portal to Yosemite Valley, via El 
Portal Road direct and return via Tuol- 
umne Big Trees $10.00 

Between Merced and Yosemite Valley via Mari- 
posa and Wawona 

Authorized rates of Yosemite Stage & Turnpike Co? 
Merced and Yosemite, either direction, one way .$14.25 

Merced and Yosemite, round trip 22.15 

Wawona and Yosemite, either direction, one 

way _ 5.50 

Wawona and Yosemite, round trip 9.50 

Yosemite to Mariposa Big Trees and return to 

Wawona 7.25 

Side trip, Chinquapin to Glacier Point and 

return , 5.00J 

(In connection with above trips only, 
charge is additional to above-quoted rates.) 

i 
Sight-Seeing Automobile Trips 

The following service will be maintained by 
the Desmond Park Service Co., starting frorc 
the Sentinel Hotel or any of the permanent 
camps, on floor of valley, contingent on fou: 
or more in party: 

Rates for sightseeing automobile trips. 
To or from Happy Isles or Mirror Lake, one 

way $0.^ 

Round trip via Happy Isles or Mirror Lake. . .. 1.2 

1 This company offers round trips from points outside cj 
the park only. It is not engaged in the transportation/ 
passengers between points in Yosemite Park. All of its tri 
either begin or end outside of the park limits. 




On the road in the Mariposa Grove, 
Yosemite Park. 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 125 

To Bridal Veil Falls, one way. . , , $1.00 

To Bridal Veil Falls, round trip 1.75 

To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the village, Ca- 
thedral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capi- 

tan, round trip 3.25 

To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the village, Ca- 
thedral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, 
Artist and Inspiration Point, round trip... 4.50 
To Artist Point and Inspiration Point, round 

trip 3.00 

To Cascades, round trip 2.75 

To New Inspiration Point, round trip 3.00 

Galen Clark sight-seeing tour, round trip, $2, visit- 
ing the following points of interest : Yosemite Vil- 
lage, John Muir Studio, Big Tree Room, Sentinel 
Hotel, Artist Colors, Le Conte Lodge, Hutchins 
Orchard, Desmond Park Service Co.'s stables', where 
pack animals are being loaded for trails; bear pit; 
Indian village, where Yosemite Indians live ; Galen 
Clark's retiring seat, foot of Yosemite Falls ; Yo- 
semite Falls Camp, with its entertainment plaza, 
swimming pool, bath house, and children's play- 
ground; El Capitan Camp, Grizzly Hotel under con- 
struction ; epitaphs on tombstones at graves of Galen 
Clark and John Mason Hutchings ; and viewing 
from floor of valley, Washington Columns, Royal 
Arches, North Dome, Half Dome, Eagle Peak, Gla^ 
|cier Point, and Yosemite Falls from Galen Clark's 
seat. 

Automobile Tours 

The following automobile tour rates will 



126 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

apply from Yosemite Valley to points named 
on daily schedule, or at other times for par- 
ties of four or more. 

Rates for automobile tours. \ 



To Wawona, round trip, from valley $ 9.50* 

To Mariposa Big Tree Grove and return to 

Wawona 7.7$] 

To Mariposa Big Tree Grove, round trip, from 

valley 1 1 .25 

To Glacier Point, one way, from valley 5.5c; 

To Glacier Point, round trip, from valley 9.5^ 

To Tuolumne Big Trees, one way. 2.5<kj 

To Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 4.21.; 

To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, 

one way 8.?j 

To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, 

round trip 15.2 

To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, one 

way 10.0 

To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, 

round trip 17.51, 

Glacier Point to Mariposa Big Tree Grove and 

return to valley 11.2 

Glacier Point to Mariposa Big Tree Grove and 1 

return to Glacier Point II.2L 

From valley to Mariposa Big Tree Grove via 

Glacier Point (overnight at Glacier Point), 

transportation only (hotel, usual rate) and 

return to valley 16.^ 

Glacier Point to Wawona, one way 5.= 

Glacier Point to Wawona, round trip. .,,,,,,,, 9.; 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 127 

Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy and return $14.00 

Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy, one way 8.00 

Yosemite to Crocker's Sierra Resort and re- 
turn to Yosemite 9.50 

Yosemite to Crocker's Sierra Resort, one way. . 5.50 

(Note. — Rates for one-way trips for less than four persons 
apply only when a car is bound in the direction desired. On 
above trips one piece of hand baggage weighing not to ex- 
ceed 20 pounds will be carried free for each person.) 

On all sight-seeing trips, children under 5 years of age 
held in lap will be carried free. If occupying seat, full fare 
will be collected. 

Automobile Rental 

Tourists desiring to rent private automo- 
biles for special trips from Yosemite Valley 
to points of interest can secure six-passenger 
cars at $6 per hour from the Desmond Park 
Service Co. This service may be had only 
when cars are available without interrupting 
regular service, and such service is obtainable 
only for trips on floor of valley. Cars limited 
to six passengers. 

All special automobile rates are based on an 
average running time of 12 to 15 miles per 
hour. No charge for time consumed as result 
of breakdown. 

Rental rates for trips off of the floor of the 
valley will be considered special service, and 
rates will be made accordingly. 



128 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 
Day Automobile Bus Service 

For passengers between village and established 
camps and hotels on floor of valley, or be- 
tween camps, single trip, per person $0.25 

Horseback Tours from Yosemite Valley 

The following service will be maintained by 
the Desmond Park Service Co., and the rates 
given apply to round trips from hotel and 
camps in the Yosemite Valley : In regular par- 
ties of five or more, leaving on regular sched- 
ule time, rates for all horseback tours include 
service of guide free. For parties of less than 
five, $5 per day additional is charged for guide 
(provided, however, that the total charge for 
party of less than five shall not exceed $17.50), 
which price includes horse and meals for 
guide. Trips other than those given, or special 
service, will be subject to special arrangements. 

One-day Tours 

Rates for one-day tours cover only horse 
and guide : 

Vernal and Nevada Falls $3.50 

Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point and 

return, continuous 3.50 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 129 

Vernal and Nevada Falls and Clouds Rest.., $3.50 
Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome via Union 

Point (short trail) 3.50 

Yosemite Point 3.50 

Eagle Peak 3.50 

North Dome via Mirror Lake and return via 

Yosemite Falls 3.50 

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome and Fissures, via 

Union Point (short trail) 3.50 



Saddle Tours 
Private Party Camping Tours 

Throughout the park merchandise stores 
are prepared to furnish campers supplies at 
reasonable rates. Camp and traveling equip- 
ment may be rented or purchased at the Yose- 
mite store at rates prevailing elsewhere for 
such commodities. 

Tourists who travel with saddle horses from 
livery through the park are required to be 
accompanied by a competent and registered 
guide. One guide can ordinarily handle eight 
persons. 

Pack horses are necessary on such trips for 
the purpose of carrying dunnage bags and 
extra clothing. One pack horse will suffice 
for a party of eight, 



130 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Rates for private party camping trips. 

Saddle horses, per day, each $3.50 

Pack horses, per day, each 3.00 

Guides, with horse, per day, each 5.00 

Packers, with horse, per day, each 5.00 

Cook, with horse, per day, each 5.00 

When campers secure the service of cooks, 
guides, or packers separate from renting a 
complete outfit, they are required to furnish 
meals to such employees as accompany them 
when not stopping at one of the Desmond Park 
Service Co.'s camps, lodges, or hotels. 

All-expense Camping Tours 
The following prices are for complete out- 1 
fits for trips for 10 days or more : 

Rates for all-expense camping tours. 

Cost per Cost perji 

day per day per j, 

person. person, l 

1 person $25.00 6 persons $io.6c?l 

2 persons 15.75 7 persons io.od 

3 persons 12.65 8 persons 9.7C: 

4 persons 12.40 9 persons 9.6^ 

5 persons 11.30 10 persons or more. 9.5c) 

Above rates include the necessary guides,; 
cooks, saddle horses, pack horses, provisions? 
canvas shelters, cooking utensils, stoves anc 
bedding. 

II 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 131 

Hikers' Tours with Camp, Hotel, or Lodge 
Accommodations 

The walking tours are recommended to only 
those who are accustomed to tramping, al- 
though distances between the mountain camps 
are not great and can be easily covered in a 
day, thereby assuring the tourist a very com- 
fortable bed and good, wholesome meals. 
Meals may be obtained at any of the lodges, 
thereby obviating the necessity of carrying 
anything except a small canteen of water and 
knapsack for such clothing as will be neces- 
sary. 

Hikers' Tours — Camping 

It is advisable for hikers to travel with pack 
mule. Bearing heavy equipment robs the 
camping trip of half of its joys. Pack animals 
may be rented at the rate of $3 per day. 

It is necessary to employ a guide only when 
saddle animals are used. 

The prospective camper may be fully 
equipped after arrival in the park. The store 
in Yosemite rents or sells tents, bedding, cook- 
ing utensils, outing clothes, fishing tackle — in 
a word, everything which goes to make camp- 



i 3 2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

ing a pleasure. Provisions can be obtained at 
any of the supply depots throughout the park. 

Campers should pack their goods in dunnage 
bags, rather than in suit cases or grips, which 
are liable to be damaged while a trail trip is 
in progress. Dunnage bags may be rented in 
the park at a nominal rate. 

A deposit is required on all equipment taken 
outside of Yosemite Valley and refunded upon 
return of equipment. 

Camping Outfits for Valley Use 

Tourists may rent their camping outfits at 
reasonable rates as indicated above. It is ad- 
visable in every instance that tourists desiring 
to camp in the park should have reserved the 
necessary equipment before arrival, as during 
the busy season tents are in great demand. 

No charge is made for camp sites, which are 
assigned to campers by the supervisor of the 
park. 

What to See 

June is an ideal time to visit Yosemite Na- 
tional Park, for then the roads and trails are 
less dusty than later in the season, the de- 



TRAVEL- GUIDE MAP 

)SEMITE NATIONAL PARK 

CALIFORNIA 

Scale 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 133 

ciduous trees and shrubs are clothed in their 
freshest green, the woods and meadows are 
fragrant with wild flowers, and the waterfalls, 
the Park's greatest attraction, are at their full. 

"I never knew any one to be disappointed 
in his first sight of the valley/' says a Cali- 
fornia author ; x "but there is one thing that 
generally surprises — that is its narrowness 
and the remarkable verticality of the enclos- 
ing walls. These stupendous cliffs shoot 
straight upward to a height of almost a mile 
(to be exact, from 3,000 to 5,000 feet) above 
the valley floor, which is itself 4,000 feet above 
the sea. As the Yosemite is only about 
three-quarters of a mile across at its broadest, 
it is, in fact, less a valley than a gorge — an 
incidental bulge some seven miles long in the 
wild, deep-cut canyon of the Merced River." 

Yosemite Valley is the best known and most 
frequently visited portion of the Park, but 
although it is the most spectacular in the mat- 
ter of scenic grandeur, it is by no means a 
proportionately large part of the whole. 

Approaching from El Portal, at the ter- 

1 " Tenting and Footing It in the Yosemite," by Charles 
Francis Saunders. Travel. May, 19 14. 



134 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

minus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad, it is 
a drive of but 134 miles to the Park entrance. 
Six miles from El Portal is the first of the 
big sights of the valley, Cascade Falls (600 
feet) on the north side of the Merced River. 
It is at Bridal Veil Meadows, a couple of 
miles farther on, that the traveler gets a first 
view of the greater part of the valley, an in- 
spiring sight, with Bridal Veil Falls (620 feet) 
spilling its filmy waters on the right hand, and 
on the left the great cliff El Capitan rising 
sheer (3,588 feet) from the valley floor. A 
short distance beyond Bridal Veil Falls are the 
Three Graces, peaks which, though less lofty 
than El Capitan opposite, are impressive for 
their size and beauty. On the same (south) 
side of the river, a mile farther on, and al- 
most directly opposite El Capitan, are Cathe- 
dral Spires, two pinnacles that are as aptly 
named as anything in the Park. One is 700 
feet in height, while the other soars to 2,660 
feet above the river. Across the river and 
2,y 2 miles farther east are those inseparable 
triplets, the Three Brothers, nearly 4,000 feet 
in height, which are a formation not unlike 
the Three Graces. The tallest of the Brothers 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 135 

is known as Eagle Peak and can be reached 
by a trail. 

Facing Three Brothers is a stupendous wall 
of granite which culminates in Sentinel Rock, 
a chimney-like peak 3,100 feet above the val- 
ley floor. Turning once again to the opposite 
side of the river, the traveler may see Yosem- 
ite Falls, of which Charles Francis Saunders 
says: 

"This magnificent cataract holds first place 
among the important waterfalls of the world 
in the matter of height, being fifteen times as 
high as Niagara. It is the last leap of Yo- 
semite Creek, bearing the dissolving snows of 
Mount Hoffman, eighteen miles away, to swell 
the Merced. First dropping sheer 1,500 feet 
without a break, then gathering breath in a 
precipitous 600-foot series of forming cas- 
cades, it makes a final plunge straight down 
400 feet to the valley floor." 

At this point in Yosemite Valley is the Sen- 
tinel Hotel, and, nearby, Camp Lost Arrow 
and Ahwahnee, reached after a drive of four- 
teen miles from the railroad station at El 
Portal. 

From the hotel as a base there are numerous 



i 3 6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



trips that can be made, either by horseback or 
on foot, to the various wonder spots in the 
valley. The various distances from here to 
the principal points are as follows : 

Distances from Yosemite Post Office to Principal 
Points in Yosemite Valley. 

Distance. Direction. 
Miles. 

Basket Dome (top of) 9.0 Northeast 

Camp Ahwahnee 1.0 West 

Camp Curry 1.0 East 

Camp Lost Arrow 5 North 

Gouds Rest 11.0 East 

El Capitan 3.5 West 

Glacier Point 4.5 South 

Glacier Point Hotel and Camp... 4.5 South 

Half Dome (foot of) 3.0 East 

Happy Isles 2.5 East 

Liberty Cap 5-5 East 

Mirror Lake 3.0 East 

Mount Watkins (top of) 9.0 East 

Nevada Falls (594 feet) 6.0 East 

North Dome (top of) 11.0 Northeast 

Sentinel Rock 1.0 West 

Tenaya Canyon 4.0 West 

Union Point 3.0 South 

Vernal Falls (317 feet) 5.0 East 

Yosemite Falls (1,750 feet).. 5 North 

A trip to the Mariposa Grove of big trees 
on the southern boundary of the Park should 
be the program of every visitor. It is 35 T /4 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 137 

miles from Yosemite, and there is a wagon 
road, so that one need not ride horseback to 
see these giants of the forest. The following 
table indicates the route, distances, and eleva- 
tions : 

Yosemite to Mariposa Big Trees by Wagon Road, 
via Wawona. 



PS <-> -r. •" w 



V 

I Is c "g'g > >' 
1 5.S <n 3 g <u o 



Q^a Q£>< w-gji 
Miles. Miles. Feet. 

Yosemite 3,960 

El Capitan Bridge 3.0 3.0 3,976 

(Bridge across Merced River.) 

Bridal Veil Falls (620 feet) 1.0 4.0 3,960 

Artists Point 2.0 6.0 4,701 

(Beautiful view of the valley.) 
Inspiration Point 1.5 7.5 5,391 

(From this point on the old In- 
dian trail Yosemite was dis- 
covered in 185 1.) 
Fort Monroe , 5 8.0 5,540 

(Stage relay station.) 
Grouse Creek 2.5 10.5 5,500 

(Stage relay station.) 
Chinquapin 4.0 14.5 6,256 

(Stage relay station.) 
Elevenmile Station 2.0 16.5 6,000 

(Stage relay station.) 
Eightmile Station 

(Stage relay station.) 



138 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Sc 8 J: J! 
Ill I s i ?2~ 

SJS.H t^gg £o£ 
Miles. Miles. Feet. 

Wawona 8.0 27.5 4,096 

(Hotel; good camping and fish- 
ing.) 
Big Tree Road Junction 4.0 31.5 5,500 

(Stage relay station.) 
Mariposa Big Tree Grove 4.0 35.5 6,000 

(Largest grove of big trees in 
the world. Discovered by Ga- 
len Clark in 1857.) 

The Mariposa Grove occupies an area of 
four square miles, and consists of two -divi- 
sions called the Lower and Upper Groves. In 
the Lower Grove, which is reached first, there 
are about 240 examples of the Sequoia \ 
gigantea, the largest of all being the "Grizzly j 
Giant," with a girth of 91 feet where it emerges I 
from the ground. The first branch of this j 
herculean tree is 125 feet up and is 6y 2 feet I 
in diameter. In ascending to the Upper 
Grove, in which there are 360 big trees, the 
road goes under an arch cut directly through 
the 27-foot diameter of a living Sequoia, j 
Many of the trees in Mariposa Grove are over 
250 feet high, while the highest is 272 feet. 

Arboreal monsters are found also in the 

i 




El Capitan, Yosemite Valley. 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 139 

Merced and Tuolumne Groves of big trees, 
21 and 18 miles respectively from Yosemite 
postoffice. They are located on the west-cen- 
tral boundary of the Park a few miles north 
of the latitude of Yos-emite Valley, and can 
be reached by stage. 

Yosemite to Merced Big Trees by Wagon Road, via 
Cascade Falls. 





C 03 

<u 

..h en 

s-sl 


Miles. 


Feet. 




3,96o 



Miles. 

Yosemite 

Cascade Falls and junction of 

Coulterville Road 8.0 8 3450 

(Beautiful waterfalls close by 

the road leading to El Portal. 

Coulterville Road is direct 

road to Merced; distance, Yo- 
semite to Coulterville, 50 

miles; to Merced, 92 miles.) 

Big Meadows 4.0 12 4,500 

(Meadowland owned by Myers 

and Mason.) 

Merced Grove of Big Trees 9.0 21 6,000 

(Beautiful grove of Sequoias 

composed of about 40 trees. 

While the trees are not so 

large as those in the Mariposa 

Grove, they are well worth 

seeing.) 



I4Q THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

To Hetch Hetchy Valley, in the northwest- 
ern corner of the Park, is a horseback trip of 
31 miles from Yosemite by the shortest trail. 
The trail passes through a very beautiful part 
of the Park, and there is good camping at 
almost any point. 

This valley has become celebrated in recent 
years on account of the agitation regarding 
its proposed mutilation for the benefit of San 
Francisco's water supply. It is a wonderfully 
beautiful counterpart of Yosemite Valley, and 
for those who can endure the discomforts of 
horseback riding and camping is eminently 
worth while. 

Among the camping trips that may be taken 
from Yosemite are the following; 

Yosemite to Soda Springs by Horse Trail via Vogel- 
sang Pass. 

nS • g' -a ••=■" : 
5u" 5 c rt u » 

2 * c 2 B g >>s\ 

sla Si£ w-gll 

Miles. Miles. Feet, j 

Yosemite 3,960 

Nevada Falls 6.0 6.0 7,000 1 

(Beautiful view from top of 
falls.) 

1 

i 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 141 



g c g .ti 2 S 

SSi S £ taw . 

S ' > "S Sew S v- 

*•*« *§§ ,S|^ 



w £i 



o^a q££ w-Sii 

Miles. Miles. Feet. 
Junction of Cloud's Rest and 

Soda Springs trail 5.52 11.52 7,000 

(Good camping.) 

Echo Creek 5.0 16.52 8,000 

(Good fishing.) 

Lake Merced 2.48 19.0 7,500 

(Good fishing and camping.) 

McClure Fork 3.0 22.0 9,000 

(Good camping and fishing.) 
Junction of Isberg Pass and 

Tuolumne Pass trails 4.0 26.0 9,000 

(No camping.) 
Upper Crossing of McClure Fork 4.8 30.8 10,000 
(Can camp in August; before 
then feed is scarce.) 

Fletcher Lake 1.5 32.3 10,000 

(Good camping.) 

Tuolumne Pass 1.6 33.9 10,000 

(No camping.) 

Evelyn Lake 1.5 35.4 10,000 

(Poor camping.) 
Junction of Lyell Fork of Tuo- 
lumne and Ireland Creek... 3.0 38.4 9,000 
(Excellent camping and fish- 
ing.) 

Soda Springs 7-0 454 8,594 

(Excellent camping and fish- 
ing.) 



142 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Yosemite to Soda Springs and Lyell Fork Meadows 
by Horse Trail via Nevada Falls. 



«>£ «*§ 2S-- 

s^a SijS s-sl 

Miles. Miles. Feet. 

Yosemite 3,960 

Top of Nevada Falls 6.0 6.0 7,000 

Junction of Cloud's Rest trail 3.52 9.52 7,167 

Top of Sunrise Hill 3.23 12.75 8,000 

(Good camping.) 
Divide at head of Cathedral 

Meadows 5.20 17.95 9,ooo 

(Good camping.) 

Junction of Tioga Road 4.44 22.39 8,550 

(Good camping and fishing.) 

Soda Springs 1.0 23.39 8,594; 

(Good camping and fishing.) 
Junction of Lyell and Dana 

Forks of Tuolumne 6 23.99 8,594 1 

(Good camping.) 
Head of Lyell Fork Meadows.... 9.31 33.30 9,000 
(Fine camping and excellent 
fishing.) 



Yosemite to Soda Springs by Horse Trail via Yo- 
semite Falls, Eagle Peak, and Yosemite Point 
Trail. 

Yosemite 3,960 

Junction of Eagle Peak trail 4.5 4-5 7,283 

Junction of Yosemite Point trail.. .5 5.0 7,300; 
Porcupine Flat and junction of 

Tioga Road 7-5 12.5 8,066 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 143 



p^a Q^£ E-Sl 

Miles. Miles. Feet. 

Tenaya Lake 8.0 20.5 8,146 

Soda Springs 8.0 28.5 8,504 

(Left-hand trail to Eagle Peak; right-hand trail to 
top of Yosemite Falls, where from a railing can 
be seen 1,600 feet of perpendicular waterfall, and 
a beautiful view of Yosemite Valley. The second 
left-hand trail leads to Yosemite Point, which 
affords a splendid view of Yosemite Valley and 
surrounding hills. There is good grazing and 
camping at Porcupine Flat, and good camping 
and fishing at Lake Tenaya and Soda Springs.) 

Yosemite to North Dome by Horse Trail and Return 
via Yosemite Point. 



'X, v'o 

Miles. 

Yosemite 

Mirror Lake 3.00 

(Beautiful reflection.) 
Foot of trail in Tenaya Canyon. . 1.00 

(Good fishing.) 
Junction of Lake Tenaya and 

North Dome trails 2.25 6.25 6,500 

(Close to Snow Creek.) 
Junction of Tioga Road trail at top 

of divide 2.50 8.75 8,000 

(Good camping close by.) 



.2 g *> 

."So 


rt v . 

w.-sJi 


Miles. 


Feet. 




3,96b 


3.00 


4,096 


4.00 


4,100 



S 6 


> > « 


.-oo 


« 5 


Miles. 


Feet. 


II.50 


7,531 



144 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



£*« 

sll 

Miles. 

North Dome 2.75 

(Beautiful view of Yosemite 
Valley, Tenaya Canyon, and 
surrounding country. Very 
interesting point.) 

Yosemite Point 3.50 15.000 6.935 

(Beautiful view.) 

Yosemite 4.50 19.50 

Yosemite to Lake Tenaya by Horse Trail and Return 
via Forsyth Pass and Clouds Rest. 

Yosemite , 3^96o 

Mirror Lake 3.00 3.00 4,096 

(Beautiful reflection.) 
Junction of Lake Tenaya and 

North Dome Trails 3.25 6.25 6,500] 

(Close to Snow Creek.) 

Lake Tenaya 7.50 13.75 8,146 1 

(Good camping; fair fishing.) 

Forsyth Pass 2.50 16.25 9.500 j 

(The only pass through which 
a horse trail could be built 
between Lake Tenaya and 
Clouds Rest to shorten the 
distance between these two in- 
teresting points.) 

Clouds Rest 3.00 19.25 9,925 

(Beautiful panorama.) 

Nevada Falls 5.00 24.25 7,000 

(Beautiful waterfall.) 
Yosemite 6.00 30.25 3,900 



YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 145 

Yosemite to Merced Lake and Washburn Lake by 
Horse Trail. 1 

»> ,. ■ u . c « 

o C u •- - .2 w 

S « id 5 S i« « . 

•2 ^ c 5 g g» > >~ 

p^a Qi^ h-s« 

Miles. Miles. Feet. 

Yosemite 3,960 

Nevada Falls 6.00 6.00 7,000 

(Beautiful view from top of 
falls.) 
Junction of Lake Merced and 

Sunrise Trails 5.00 1 1.00 8,000 

(Good camping.) 
Merced Lake 5.50 16.50 7,500 

(Splendid camping and fishing.) 
Washburn Lake 4.50 21.00 7,640 

(Splendid camping and fishing.) 

1 Trip can be made from Lake Tenaya to Lake Merced 
by taking a branch connecting trail that leads off of the 
trail from Lake Tenaya to Clouds Rest and joins the 
Merced Lake Trail at its junction with the Sunrise Trail. 
This makes the distance between Lake Tenaya and Lake 
Merced about 11 miles. 



IV. 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 

Rocky Mountain National Park, created by 
the act of January 26, 191 5, and enlarged 
February 14, 19 17, is located in Colorado, 
about 45 miles in an air line northwest of 
Denver. It has an area of approximately 255,- j 
000 acres, and is on both sides of the Conti- j 
nental Divide in the neighborhood of Longs | 
Peak. Is is under the control and supervis- 
ion of the Secretary of the Interior, who is 
represented in administration of the park by 
a supervisor, assisted by a number of park 
rangers who patrol the reservation. The ad- 
dress of the supervisor is Estes Park, Colo. 

How to Reach the Park 

Both sides of the park may be reached from 
Denver. The east gateway is Estes Park, 

146 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 147 

which is connected by the automobile stages 
of the Rocky Mountain Parks Transportation 
Co., with Denver as well as with the railway 
stations at Fort Collins, on the Colorado & 
Southern and the Union Pacific Railroads ;; 
Loveland, on the Colorado & Southern Rail- 
way; Lyons, on the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy Railroad ; Ward, on the Denver, Boul- 
tfcer & Western Railroad ; and Longmont on 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy and the 
Colorado Southern Railroads. The rate from 
Denver via rail or automobile to Lyons, Love- 
land, Fort Collins, Longmont, or Ward, thence 
automobile to Estes Park, is $5.50 one way, 
$9.60 round trip. The rate via automobile 
from Longmont, Lyons, Loveland, or Fort Col- 
lins to Estes Park is $3.50 one way, $7 round 
trip. 

The west side of the park may be reached 
from Denver by way of Granby, on the Denver 
& Salt Lake Railroad ; from Granby stages run 
to Grand Lake. 

There has been some confusion about the 
name of Estes Park, which is a small village 
at one of the eastern entrances of Rocky Moun- 
tain National Park. Estes Park, however, has 



148 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

come to signify a region, and is practically one 
with the greater park. 

Transportation Within the Park — Automobile 
Rides 

The Rocky Mountain Parks Transportation 
Co. conducts the following regular sight-seeing 
trips from Estes Park, Colo., into the park: 

The Fall River Road drive, approximately 20 

miles $3.00 

The Fall River Road and Highdrive, approxi- 
mately 24 miles 3.50 

Longs Peak Inn or Highdrive 2.00 

Longs Peak Inn or Highdrive and Fall River 

Road 5.50 

Horseback and Camping Outfits 

At Estes Park and the smaller settlements 1 
near, and at Grand Lake, horses and camp 
outfits may be had at reasonable rates. Estes 1 
Park, with its many hotels, is especially well ! 
equipped with conveniences for those wishing 
to climb the mountains. There is much horse- 1 
back riding throughout the entire district, and! 
this is the best method of seeing the country; 
within the borders of Rocky Mountain Na-i 
tional Park, for there are comparatively fewi 
roads in this mountainous region. . _ . . 

1 
1 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 149 

Resorts and Hotels 

The following hotels are located in or near 
the park; post-office address, Estes Park, 
Colo. : 

Longs Peak Inn: 

Board and lodging — 

Single rooms, per week $i9.00-$42.oo 

Two in double rooms, each, per 

week 15.00- 35.00 

Single meals 75- 1.25 

Shelter Cabin, Longs Peak: 

Meals .75 

Lodging 1.00 

Sprague's Resort: 

Board and lodging — 

Two in room, each, per week... 17-5° 

Two in room, each, per month.. 56.00 

One in room, per week 20.00 

One in room, per month 75-00 

Regular dinner 1.00 

Special dinner, fish or chicken, mid- 
day or evening 1.25 

Breakfast or supper .75 

The Brinwood : 

Board and lodging — > 

Per day 3-00- 4.50 

Per week 14.00- 22.50 

Horseshoe Inn : 

Board and lodging — 

Room with private bath, two in 
room, each, per day, , 4-5° 



150 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Room with private bath, one in 
room, per day $6.< 

Suite of two rooms, bath be- 
tween, two in room, each, per 
day 4.1 

Suite of two rooms, bath be- 
tween, one In room, per day. . 5.< 

Rooms with running hot and 
cold water, one in room, per 
day 4.< 

Rooms with running hot and 
cold water, two in room, each, 
per day 3.. 

Cottages, two in room, each, per 
day 3/ 

Cottages, one in room, per day. 3., 

Tent rooms, double, each, per 

day 2.; 

Tent rooms, single, per day. ... 3.< 

Room with private bath, two in 
room, each, per week 

Room with private bath, one in 
room, per week 

Suite of two rooms, bath be- 
tween, two in room, each, per 
week 

Suite of two rooms, bath be- 
tween, one in room, per week. 

Best rooms with running hot 
and cold water, two in room, 
each, per week 

Best rooms with running hot 
and cold water, one in room, 
per week ,,,,,,...,,........ 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 151 

Other rooms with running hot 
and cold water, two in room, 

each, per week $17.00 

Other rooms with running hot 
and cold water, one in room, 

per week 20.00 

Cottages, two in double, each, 

per week 16.00 

Cottages, single, per week 20.00 

Tent rooms, two in double, each, 

per week 14.00 

Tent rooms, single, per week. . , 17.00 

Lawn Lake Resort, Bradley & Patrick, 
proprietors : 

Meals .75 

Lodging 1.00 

Hewes-Kirkwood : 

Board and lodging — 

Tents, per week 16.50 

Cabins, per week 20.00 

Do 21.00 

Do * 22.50 

Day rates 4.00 

Children under 7 years, half price. 
The Columbines, C. H. Alexander, man- 
ager: 

Board and room, per week $15.00- 22.00 

Regular meals .75 

Special chicken dinner ., . 1.00 

Fern Lodge, Byerly & Rogers, proprie- 
tors : 
Board and lodging — 

One in room, per day 3.50 

1 And up. 



152 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

One in room, per week 

One in room, per month 

Two in room* each, per day 

Two in room, each, per week. . 
Two in room, each, per month. 
Horse feed — 

Hay and grain .50 

Grain only .35 

The Pool, Byerly & Rogers, proprietors : 

Board and lodging — 

One in room, per day 3.50 

One in room, per week 23.00 

One in room, per month 85.00 

Two in room, each, per day 3.00 

Two in room, each, per week. . 20.00 

Two in room, each, per month. 75-00 

Horse feed — 

, Hay and grain .50 

Grain only .35 

Bear Lake: 

Board and lodging — 

One in room, per day 3.50 

One in room, per week 23.00 

One in room, per month 85.00 

Two in room, each, per day 3.00 

Two in room, each, per week. . 20.00 

Two in room, each, per month. 75-0O 

Horse feed — 

Hay and grain .50 

Grain only .35 

Fall River Lodge: 

Board and room, per day 2.50- 5.00 | 

Board and room, per week 14.00- 30.00 




d 

'bio 
W 

£ 

o 



■- -*&■ 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 153 

Moraine Lodge, Mrs. W. D. McPherson, 
proprietress : 
Board and lodging — 

Per day 1 $300 

Per week x 14.00 

Elkhorn Lodge : 

Board and room, per day * 3.00 

Board and room, per week 12.00- 20.00 

Hupp Hotel: 

Board and room, per day 3.00 

Board and room, per week 12.00- 15.00 

Lester Hotel: 

Board and room, per day * 2.50 

Board and room, per week 14.00- 20.00 

Rockdale Hotel: 

Board and room, per day * 3.00 

Board and room, per week 15.00- 22.50 

Steads Ranch and Hotel : 

Board and room, per day - 1 2.50 

Board and room, per week 12.00- 20.00 

Stanley Hotels : 

Board and room, per day a 4.00 

Board and room, per week 28.00- 84.00 

Estes Park Hotel: 

Board and room, per day 1 2.50 

Board and room, per week IO.OO- 14.00 

The Crags Hotel: 

Board and room, per day * 3.00 

Board and room, per week 14.00- 25.00 

1 And up. 



154 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Lewiston Hotel: 

Board and room, per day . * $3.50 

Board and room, per week 20.00- 40.00 

Brown Tea Pot (American and Euro- 
pean plans) : 

Per day * 3.50 

Per week 20.00- 35.00 

Hotels at Grand Lake on the west side. 

Lehmans Hotel, $2 a day. 
Langles Hotel, $2 a day. 
Kauffman House, $2.50 a day. 
Narwata Hotel, $2.50 a day. 
The Rapid Hotel, $2.50 a day. 

What to See 

There is probably no other scenic neighbor- 
hood of the first order which combines moun- 
tain outlines so bold with a quality of beauty 
so intimate and refined. Just to live in the 
valley in the eloquent and ever changing- pres- 
ence of these carved and tinted peaks is it- 
self satisfaction. But to climb into their em- 
brace, to know them in the intimacy of their 
bare summits and their flowered, glaciated 
gorges, is to turn a new and unforgetable page 
in human experience. 

1 And up. 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 155 

This national park is certainly very high up 
in the air. The summer visitors who live at 
the base of the great mountains are 8,000 feet, 
or more than a mile and a half, above the level 
of the sea ; while the mountains themselves 
rise precipitously nearly a mile, and sometimes 
more than a mile, higher still. Longs Peak,- 
the biggest of them all, rises 14,255 feet above 
sea level, and most of the other mountains in 
the Snowy Range, as it is sometimes called, 
are more than 12,000 feet high: several are 
nearly as high as Longs Peak. 

The valleys on both sides of this range and 
those which penetrate into its recesses are 
dotted with parklike glades clothed in a pro- 
fusion of glowing wild flowers and watered 
with cold streams from the mountain snows 
and glaciers. Forests of pine and silver- 
stemmed aspen separate them. 

The range lies, roughly speaking, north 
and south. The gentler slope is on the west. 
On the east side the descent from the Conti- 
nental Divide is precipitous in the extreme. 
Sheer drops of two or three thousand feet into 
rock-bound gorges carpeted with snow patches 
and wild flowers are common. Seen from the 



156 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

east side valleys this range rises in daring re- 
lief, craggy in outline, snow spattered, awe in- 
spiring. 

In the northeast corner, separated from the 
Continental Divide by the Fall River Canyon, 
lies a tumbled majestic mountain mass which 
includes some of the loftiest peaks and the fin- 
est glaciers. 

To the south of Longs Peak the country 
grows even wilder. The range is a succes- 
sion of superb peaks. The southern park 
boundary unfortunately cuts arbitrarily 
through a climatic massing of noble snow- 
covered summits. The St. Vrain Glaciers, 
with their surrounding ramparts, a spectacle 
of grandeur, lie outside the park and, still 
farther below, the Continental Divide grows in 
splendor to Arapaho Peak and its glacier. 

The west side, gentler in its slopes and less 
majestic in its mountain massings, is a region 
of loveliness and wildness diversified by splen- 
did mountains, innumerable streams, and lakes 
of great charm. Grand Lake, which has rail- 
road connections near by, is the largest and 
deepest lake in the park. It is the center of a 
growing cottage and hotel population, and is 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 157 

destined to become a center of much import- 
ance upon the completion of the Fall River 
Road, which will connect the east and west 
sides across the Continental Divide. 

Until the creation of the Rocky Mountain 
National Park there was little in common be- 
tween the settlements on the east and on the 
west sides. The difficult trails over the divide 
were crossed by few. The projection of the 
Fall River Road by the State of Colorado 
sounded the note of common interest. The 
energetic prosecution of this road, and the im- 
provement of trails and the building of new 
trails by the Department of the Interior, will 
work the rapid development of the entire re- 
gion. 

One of the remarkable features of the Rocky 
Mountain National Park is the legibility of the 
record left by the glaciers during the ages when 
America was making. The evidences of gla- 
cial action, in all their variety, make themselves 
apparent to even the most casual eye. 

In fact, there is scarcely any part of the 
eastern side where some great moraine does 
not force itself upon the attention. One 
enormous moraine built up by ancient parallel 



158 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

glaciers and rising with sloping sides a thous- 
and feet and more above the surrounding val- 
ley is so prominent that a village is named for 
it. From Longs Peak on the east side the Mills 
Moraine, named after Enos Mills, who is 
known locally as "the father of the Rocky 
Mountain National Park," makes a bold curve 
which instantly draws questions from visitors. 

In short, this park itself is a primer of gla- 
cial geology whose lessons are so simple, so 
plain to the eye, that they immediately dis- 
close the key to one of nature's chiefest scenic 
secrets. 

Just at timber line, where the winter tem- 
perature and the fierce icy winds make it im- 
possible for trees to grow tall, the spruces lie 
flat on the ground like vines ; presently they 
give place to low birches, which, in their turn, 
give place to small piney growths, and finally 
to tough straggling grass, hardy mosses, and 
tiny Alpine flowers. Grass grows in shel- 
tered spots even on the highest peaks, which 
is fortunate for the large curve-horned moun- 
tain sheep, which seek these high, open places 
to escape their special enemies, the mountain 
lions. 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 159 

Even at the highest altitudes gorgeously col- 
ored wild flowers grow in glory and profu- 
sion in sheltered gorges. Even in late Sep- 
tember large and beautiful columbines are 
found in the lee of protecting masses of snow 
banks and glaciers. 

Nowhere else is the timber-line struggle be- 
tween the trees and the winds more grotesquely 
exemplified or its scene more easily accessible 
to tourists of average climbing ability. The 
first sight of luxuriant Engelmann spruces 
creeping closely upon the ground instead of 
rising a hundred and fifty feet or more straight 
and true as masts arouses keenest interest. 
Many trees which defy the winter gales grow 
bent in half circles. Others, starting straight in 
shelter of some large rock, bent at right angles 
where they emerge above the rock. Others 
which have succeeded in lifting their heads in 
spite of winds have not succeeded in growing 
branches in any direction except in the lee of 
their trunks, and suggest big evergreen dust 
brushes rather than spruces and firs. 

Still others which have fought the winter's 
gales for years are twisted and gnarled beyond 
description — like dwarfs and gnomes of an 



*6o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

aboreal fairyland. Others yet, growing in 
thick groups, have found strength in union 
and form low, stunted groves covered with 
thick roofs of matted branches bent over by 
the winds and so intertwined that one can 
scarcely see daylight overhead — excellent shel- 
ter for man or animal overtaken by mountain- 
top storms. 

These familiar sights of timber line are 
wonderfully picturesque and interesting. They 
never lose their charm, however often they 
may be seen. 

Above timber line the bare mountain masses 
rise from one to three thousand feet, often in 
sheer precipices. Covered with snow in au- 
tumn, winter, and spring, and plentifully spat- 
tered with snow all summer long, the vast, 
bare granite masses, from which, in fact, the 
Rocky Mountains got their name, are beauti- 
ful beyond description. They are rosy at sun- 
rise and sunset. During fair and sunny days 
they show all shades of translucent grays and 
mauves and blues. In some lights they are 
almost fairylike in their delicacy. But on 
stormy days they are cold and dark and for- 
bidding, burying their heads in gloomy clouds 




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TRAVEL GUIDE MAP OF MT. RAINIER PARK, WASH. 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 161 

from which sometimes they emerge covered 
with snow. 

Often one can see a thunderstorm born on 
the square granite head of Longs Peak. First 
out of the blue sky a slight mist seems to 
gather. In a few moments, while you watch, it 
becomes a tiny cloud. This grows with great 
rapidity. In five minutes, perhaps, the moun- 
tain top is hidden. Then, out of nothing, ap- 
parently, the cloud swells and sweeps over the 
sky. Sometimes in 15 minutes after the first 
tiny fleck of mist appears it is raining in the 
valley and possibly snowing on the mountain. 
In half an hour more it has cleared. 

Standing on the summits of these mountains 
the climber is often enveloped in these brief- 
lived clouds. It is an impressive experience to 
look down upon the top of an ocean of cloud 
from which the greater peaks emerge at inter- 
vals. Sometimes the sun is shining on the ob- 
server upon the heights while it is raining in 
the valleys below. It is startling to see the 
lightning below you. 

One of the striking features of the Rocky 
Mountain National Park is the easy accessibil- 
ity of these mountain tops. One may mount a 



162 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

horse after early breakfast in the valley, ride 
up Flattop to enjoy one of the great views of 
the world, and be back for late luncheon. The 
hardy foot traveler may make better time than 
the horse on these mountain trails. One may 
cross the Continental Divide from the hotels 
of one side to the hotels of the other between 
early breakfast and late dinner. 

In fact, for all-around accessibility there ! 
surely is no high mountain resort of the first 
order that will quite compare with the Rocky 
Mountain National Park. Three railroads toi 
Denver skirt its sides and Denver is only 30; 
hours from Chicago. 

This range was once a famous hunting! 
ground for large game. Lord Dunraven, a! 
famous English sportsman, visited it yearly to' 
shoot its deer, bear, and bighorn sheep, audi 
once he tried to buy it for a private game pre-| 
serve. Now that the Government has made 
it a national park the protection offered itSj 
wild animals will make it in a few years, one of 
the most successful wild animal refuges in the 
world. 

These lofty rocks are the natural home ofj 
the celebrated Rocky Mountain sheep, or big- 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 163 

horn. This animal is much larger than any 
domestic sheep. It is powerful and wonder- 
fully agile. When fleeing from enemies, these 
sheep, even the lambs, think nothing of drop- 
ping off precipices apparently many hundreds 
of feet high, breaking the fall at short in- 
tervals, of course, upon friendly ledges. They 
do not land on their curved horns, as many 
persons declare, but upon their four feet held 
close together. Landing on some near-by ledge, 
which breaks their fall, they immediately 
plunge again downward to another ledge, and 
so on till they reach good footing in the val- 
ley below. They also ascend slopes surpris- 
ingly steep. 

They are more agile even than the celebrated 
chamois of the Swiss Alps, and are larger, 
more powerful, and much handsomer. It is 
something not to be forgotten to see a flock 
of a dozen or 20 mountain sheep making their 
way along the blown-out volcanic crater of 
Specimen Mountain in the Rocky Mountain 
National Park. 

The greatest of all these mountains, Longs 
Peak, has a great square head towering above 
everything else. It is a real architectural struc- 



164 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

ture like an enormous column of solid rock 
buttressed up on four sides with long rock 
ledges. On the east side a precipice of 2,000 
feet drops sheer from the summit into the 
wildest lake that one can possibly imagine. It 
is called Chasm Lake, and there is only one 
month in the year when its surface is not, par- 
tially at least, frozen. Mount Meeker and 
Mount Lady Washington inclose it on the 
south and north, and snow fields edge its 
waters the year round. There is another lake 
known as Iceberg Lake in which small ice- 
bergs float all summer long. 

A distinguished feature of the Rocky Moun- 
tain National Park is its profusion of preci- 
pice-walled canyons lying between the very 
feet, so to speak, of the loftiest mountains. 
Their beauty is romantic to a high degree. 
Like all the other spectacles of this favored 
region they are readily accessible from the val- 
ley villages by trail, either afoot or on horse- 
back. 

LTsually several lakes are found, rock em- 
bedded, in such a gorge. Ice cold streams wan- 
der from lake to lake watering wild flower 
gardens of luxuriance and beauty, 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 165 

There are few wilder and lovelier spots, for 
instance, than Loch Vale, 3,000 feet sheer be- 
low Taylor Peak. Adjoining it lies Glacier 
Gorge on the precipitous northern slope of 
Longs Peak and holding in its embrace a group 
of Lakelets. 

These, with lesser gorges cradling romantic 
Bear Lake, almost inaccessible Dream Lake, 
beautiful Fern Lake, and exquisite Odessa 
Lake, and still others yet unnamed, constitute 
the Wild Garden of the Rocky Mountain Na- 
tional Park, lying in the angle north of Longs 
Peak ; while, in the angle south lies a little 
known wilderness of lakes and gorges known 
as the Wild Basin. 

Although as many as 50,000 persons, have, 
in a single summer, visited the valleys at the 
foot of these mountains, comparatively few 
have yet enjoyed their heights and their fast- 
nesses. This is because of the absence of roads 
and well-developed trails. 

When these are provided, this region, be- 
cause of its accessibility and the favorable liv- 
ing conditions of its surrounding valleys, is 
destined to become one of the most popular 
mountain resorts in the world. 



166 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 
The Mountain Peaks 



Front Range peaks following the line of the Conti- 
nental Divide, north to south. 



A little west of 
the divide. 



On the Conti- 
nental Divide. 



Alti- 
A little east of tude 

the divide. in 

feet. 



Specimen Mt ; 12,485 

Slaipler Mt 11,40c 

Mount Ida 12,72* 

Terra Tomah Pk 12,686 

Mount Julian... 12,928 

Nakai Peak 12,221 

Stones Peak 12,928 

Flattop Mt 1 2,30c 

Hallett Peak 12,72s 

Otis Peak 12,41? 

Taylor Peak 13,150 

! Thatchtop ...... 12,60c 

McHenrys Pk 13*200 

Storm Peak 13, 335 

Chiefs Head 13, 579 

Pagoda 13,49^ 

Longs Peak 14,253 

Mount Lady 

Washington . . 13,2651 

Mount Meeker.. 13,91^ 

Mount Alice i3»3i<t 

Andrews Peak 1 2,564 

Tanina Peak 12,41; 

Mount Craig 12,00.' 

Mahana Peak.... 12,625 

Ouzel Peak 12,60$ 

Mount Adams 12,115 

Mount Copeland. 13,17^ 

Estes Cone 11,015-, 

Battle Mt ii,93« j 

Lookout 10,74^ 

Mount Orton.... ii,68>. 

Meadow Mt 11,63^ 



ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 167 

Peaks of the Mummy Range northeast of the Conti- 
nental Divide from Fall River, north. 

Altitude, 
in feet. 

Mount Chapin 12,458 

Mount Chiquita 13,052 

Ypsilon Mountain .. 13,507 

Mount Fairchild 13,502 

Mummy Mountain 13,413 

Hagues Peak 13,562 

Mount Dunraven 12,548 

Mount Dickinson 1 1,874 

Mount Tileson 1 1,244 

Big Horn Mountain 1 1,473 

McGregor Mountain , 10,482 

Peaks in the Grand Lake Basin. 

Snowdrift Peak 12,280 

Nakai Peak 12,221 

Mount Patterson 11 ,323 

Mount Bryant 1 1,000 

Mount Cairns 10,800 

Nisa Mountain 10,791 

Mount Enentah 10,737 

Mount Wescott 10,400 

Shadow Mountain 10,100 

The above tables show that there are 51 
named mountains within the park that reach 
altitudes of over 10,000 feet, as follows : 

Over 14,000 feet , 1 

Between 13,000 and 14,000 feet 13 

Between 12,000 and 13,000 feet 20 

Between 11,000 and 12,000 feet 10 

Between 10,000 and 11,000 feet. .,,,..,.,...,.,., 7 



V. 

MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

Less than one-third the size of Yosemite, 
Mount Rainier, Washington, is none the less 
a national park of appreciable magnitude and 
surpassing beauty. It has an area of 207,360 
acres, and includes Mount Rainier and all its 
approaches. 

The latest report gives the corrected height 
of Mount Rainier as 14,408 feet; but 93 feet 
less than Mount Whitney, which is the highest 
peak in the United States. The latter, how- 
ever, merely marks the culminating point in a 
ridge, while Mount Rainier is a solitary peak, 
and for that reason is far more imposing. 

From it radiates one of the greatest sys- 
tems of glaciers in the world ; said to be greater 
than that of the whole Swiss Alps. Surround- 
ing the mountain are beautiful forests of fir j 
and cedar, and in the natural parks below the \ 
168 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 169 

snow line are luxuriant fields of flowers. 
(One botanist has listed 360 species that are 
found within the park borders.) 

The tourist season is from June 1 to Sep- 
tember 30, but winter parties can be arranged 
for. 

How to Reach the Park 

The southern portion of Mount Rainier Na- 
tional Park, which is the most accessible to 
tourists is reached by rail from Seattle and 
Tacoma to Ashford, 6]/ 2 miles from the en- 
trance, via a branch line 1 of the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul Railway, and thence by 
automobile stage line to Longmire Springs, 13. 
miles in all. The trip from Seattle to the Na- 
tional Park Inn takes about six hours ; from 
Tacoma an hour less. The round trip fare 
from Tacoma is $7. 

Seattle and Tacoma are reached from the 
east by the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, 
Great Northern, and Northern Pacific Rail- 
ways ; from the south by the Southern Pacific 
and Union Pacific System. 

The northern part of the Park can be 
reached by rail to Fairfax, Wash., 2 on the 

1 The Tacoma Eastern Railroad. 

2 Nine miles from the park boundary. 



i;o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Northern Pacific Railway, from which point 
trails only are available for the traveler. 

Accommodations and Transportation — Costs 

The hotels and camps mentioned below are 
for the most part operated under concessions 
from the Department of the Interior, but the 
visitor who has occasion to use others will be 
reasonably sure of fair treatment in the matter 
of charges. 



National Park Inn (at Longmire Springs) — Board 
and lodging, per day: one person in room, $3.50; 
two persons in room, $3.00 each ; one person in 
tent, $3.00; two persons in tent, $2.50 each. Ten 
per cent, discount for stay of week or longer. 

Lodging, per day: rooms, according to number 
of occupants, $i.oo-$i.so; tents, according to num- 
ber of occupants, $o.50-$i.oo. 

Meals : dinner, 75 cents ; lunch, 50 cents ; break- 
fast, 75 cents. 

Paradise Inn (in Paradise Valley) — American plan, 
per day, $3.50 and up ; European plan, room or 
bungalow tent accommodation, per day, 75 cents 
to $1.00 and up, meals a la carte. 

New Paradise Camp (west of the Inn) — Operation 
of this camp will be planned so that patrons may 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 171 

live in any way they choose. A lunch pavilion 
will provide meals a la carte, or patrons may bring 
their own food supplies and prepare them on the 
large cook-furnace furnished free for their use. 
(Further information regarding the foregoing can 
be had from Rainier National Park Co., Tacoma, 
Wash.) 

Camp at Henry's Hunting Ground — Board and 
lodging per day, $2.50; bed, 75 cents; meals, 75 
cents; board per week, $15.00. 

Camp at Nisqually Glacier — Sleeping accommoda- 
tions for one person in single tent, per day, $1,00; 
one person in half of bungalow tent, per day, $1.00; 
two persons in single tent or half of bungalow tent, 
per day, 75c. each. 

Longmire Hotel (at Longmire Springs) — This hotel 
is on patented land just opposite the National Park 
Inn, and its rates are not subject to Government 
regulation. Per day, from $2.50 up ; special weekly 
rates. 



Auto stage service from Ashford to points within 
the park. 

The Rainier National Park Co., post-office 
address Tacoma, Wash., will operate 12 pas- 
senger auto stages from Ashford to points 
within the National Park, this service to con- 



i;2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

nect with the trains of the Chicago, Milwaukee 
& St. Paul Railway Co. Rates are as follows : 



One Round 

way. trip. 

Between Ashford and park entrance $0.75 $1.00 

Between Ashford and Longmire Springs. 1.50 2.00 

Between Ashford and Nisqually Glacier.. 2.25 3.001 

Between Ashford and Narada Falls 3.00 4.00) 

Between Ashford and Paradise Valley. . . 3-75 5-00; 



There is at present but one automobile-road 
entrance to this portion of the park. This 
road leads out from Tacoma, Seattle, Olym-I 
pia, and other Puget Sound cities, and for the 
greater distance from those cities is a highly 
improved thoroughfare, to the park 'entrance* 
where it joins the Government road in thej 
park. The distance from Tacoma is 57 miles| 
and from Seattle 96 miles. 



Auto stage service from Tacoma and Seattle ta 
Mount Rainier National Park. 

1 

The Rainier National Park Co. will operate 

regular daily automobile service from Tan 

1 For transportation, within the park, see p. 16. 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 173 

coma and Seattle to points within the park at 
the following rates : 

One Round 
way. trip. 

From Tacoma to Longmire Springs $4.00 $7.00 

From Tacoma to Nisqually Glacier 4.75 8.00 

From Tacoma to Narada Falls 5.50 9.00 

From Tacoma to Paradise Valley 6.25 10.00 

From Seattle to Longmire Springs 5.00 9.50 

From Seattle to Nisqually Glacier 6.00 10.50 

From Seattle to Narada Falls 7.00 1 1.50 

From Seattle to Paradise Valley 8.00 12.50 

Transportation Within the Park — Auto Stage 
Service 

Park headquarters of the Rainier National 
Park Co. are located at Longmire Springs. 
Rates quoted are "between stations," as the 
same charge is made in either direction. 

Auto stage rates within park limits. 

One Round 
way. trip. 

Between Longmire Springs and park en- 
trance $0.75 $1.50 

Between Longmire Springs and Nisqual- 
ly Glacier 75 1.00 

Between Longmire Springs and Narada 

Falls 1.50 2.00 

Between Longmire Springs and Paradise 

Valley . . 2.25 3.00 



174 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 
Automobile Service 

Standard seven-passenger touring cars will 
be furnished for the exclusive use of private 
parties at the following rates per passenger; 
minimum of four fares for this special car 
service : 

Automobile rates within park limits. 

One Round 
way. trip. 

Between Longmire Springs and park en- 
trance $1.00 $2.00 I 

Between Longmire Springs and Nisqual- 

ly Glacier 1.00 2.00 ! 

Between Longmire Springs and Narada 

Falls 1.75 3.00 j 

Between Longmire Springs and Paradise 

Valley 2.50 4.00 j 

Horses and Guides 

The Rainier National Park Co. will main- 
tain adequate saddle and pack horse service j 
for park trails. Arrangements for this service | 
should be made at the company's office, Long- 
mire Springs. For parties of five or more 
guide and horse will be furnished without 
charge. For parties of less than five a charge 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 175 

of $3.50 per day will be made for guide and 
horse. Following are the authorized rates : 

Rates for saddle and pack horse and guide service. 

Saddle horse and equipment, per day $3-5o 

Pack horse and equipment, per day 3.50 

Guide and horse per day for less than 5 in party 3.50 
Saddle horse and equipment, between Narada 

Falls and Paradise Valley, round trip 1.50 

Saddle horse and equipment, between Narada 

Falls and Paradise Valley, one way 1.00 

Guide Service — Special Trips 

The three most popular trips in the National 
Park requiring guide service are : ( 1 ) Climb to 
the summit, (2) climb to Pinnacle Peak, (3) 
what is generally called the "side trip." This 
is from Paradise Valley to Stevens and Para- 
dise Glaciers. 

The summit climb requires from 15 to 20 
hours for the round trip. Only those accus- 
tomed to climbing and in practice should at- 
tempt the journey. Guides to the summit will 
be supplied at the rate of $10 per person in par- 
ties of not less than five persons, or minimum 
charge of $50 for each ascent, with an addi- 



176 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

tional charge of $2.50 per person added for 
clothing and equipment. 

The Pinnacle Peak climb requires from six 
to eight hours for the round trip. Guides for 
this trip will be supplied at the rate of $4 per 
person, including clothing and equipment, with 
a minimum of three persons, or $12 for the 
trip. 

The side trip to Stevens and Paradise Gla- 
ciers requires four or five hours for the round 
trip. Guides will be supplied for this trip 
at the rate of $1.50 per person, including cloth- 
ing and equipment. 

What to See 

From Ash ford, whence runs the only wagon- j 
road entrance to the Park, to the National j 
Park Inn, is a drive of 13 miles through the j 
forest. Half-way to the inn is the Park en-| 
trance — four huge rough logs stood upright ! 
and joined together by others, and cross- 1 
beams of the same sort laid parallel on top. 
Just inside the gate is a log house where the; 
park superintendent keeps a register of all who 
enter. | 

The narrow road runs cathedral-wise! 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 177 

through a forest of great trees, some of which 
exceed in height the giants of Sequoia and 
General Grant Parks, California. To stand 
at the base of one of them and look toward 
the top gives precisely the same impression as 
standing at the front door of the Woolworth 
building and trying to see the fifty-fifth story. 
And when, branchless for seventy-five feet 
above the ground, their tops are hazed and 
feathery in the moonlight, they call to mind 
the paintings of Maxfield Parrish and make 
them seen like rank realism in comparison. 
To traverse this stretch of road in the full of 
the moon is to live a Grimm's fairy tale. A 
man with half an imagination can see sprites 
and elfins, and ogres and giants a quarter way 
up those great sticks of timber. 

The visitor may have «an excellent view of 
Mount Rainier from the Inn porch. As one 
looks upon the solitary peak lifting its head 
nearly three miles into the sky, seamed with 
age-old glaciers that swerve sinuously down 
its sides, scarred with great outcropping rocks, 
bidding defiance to time — he does not wonder 
that the Indians called it " the mountain that 
was God ! '' 



178 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

If you number horseback riding among your 
accomplishments, you will have a distinct as- 
set to your capacity for enjoying the Park; 
but if you have never sat astride a horse be- 
fore, do not let that (comparatively) unim- 
portant consideration deter you from making 
the trips that cannot be taken otherwise than 
by pony trail. Ask the man for a cayuse that 
has a soft spot in his heart for a tenderfoot, 
and then trust — the animal. He knows the 
trail and is careful on his own account, if not 
for yours. 

It is seven miles to Indian Henry's Hunt- 
ing Ground, and the trip in one direction! 
takes about four hours. The beginning of 
the trail is a few hundred feet from the Inn,! 
and it starts to ascend at once. You plunge 
directly into the deep heart of the forest, where! 
the cool air comes straight from being filtered' 
through the pine boughs, and is different from! 
anything you ever breathed before. It is very 
quiet in here, or so it seems at first, and the 
principal sound is the thud of the ponies' hoofs 
on the soft earth. Presently you will hear the. 
birds calling in the high branches of the tree?! 
or a squirrel will stand almost within reacrj 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 179 

and chatter an inquiry as to what is going on 
in the outside world. 

There are three ridges to be crossed, so 
there is a good deal of the trail that is down 
hill. Your guide will take pleasure in point- 
ing out The Ramparts, a steep cliff that looks 
to be fully five hundred feet above, and say- 
ing, " We'll be on top of that in half an hour." 
You doubt it, but not audibly. In half an 
hour you are glad you didn't contradict. The 
trail keeps on going up through the woods, 
zigzagging on side hills that slope ninety de- 
grees and more, until the top of the ridge is 
reached and you are on The Ramparts. Trees 
obstruct what might otherwise be a splendid 
view, but on this first strip the panorama is 
reserved as a climax, and you must be con- 
tent with panel pictures until then. 

You will find evidence of forest fires be- 
fore you have gone very far — whole acres 
of gray tree trunks, denuded of most of their 
limbs, and looking like a forest of telegraph 
poles. And, as if to atone for the ugliness 
of these blots, the sunlight that has been al- 
lowed to enter has carpeted the ground with 
glorious wild flowers of all colors. Lying 



18b THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

across the trail at intervals are trees that, dry 
and brittle from long standing after the fire 
that dried up their sap, have been blown down 
since the trail-menders last went this way. 
Your horse steps over the obstructions, or 
makes detours. There are numberless diver- 
sions that banish monotony. A pheasant 
starts across the way, a chipmunk plays along 
the surface of a wayside log, a deer halts on 
its way through the dim trees just beyond 
and is out of sight before there is time for a 
second look. There are streams to be crossed 
— little brooks that tumble down the moun- 
tainside in a schoolboyish rush for freedom | 
and the larger forks of the Nisqually — some I 
easily forded and others bridged with great ! 
logs and split rail planking. 

Soon after crossing the third ridge, you 
come out into the open, ride through a grassy j 
canyon, and look out across a green valley to 
Mount Rainier, so close that it seems as 
though you could reach out and touch it. In- 
dian Henry's Hunting Ground is practically 
at the base of the peak, and from this natural 
park — it is a veritable garden of wild flow- 
ers in the summer — the view is one of un- 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 1S1 

paralleled beauty. It is said that here a tribe 
of Klickitat Indians came to hunt, and it is 
easy to imagine that there was a religious sig- 
nificance in their selection of the spot, for the 
presence of the mountain inspires awe and 
reverence. 

A camp is maintained at Indian Henry. 
There are tents where people sleep, and a log 
house from which issue odors of a wood fire, 
frying ham, and the like. Yes, the mountain 
will wait half an hour. It seems like a waste 
of time to eat, but — . Perhaps it will occur 
to you that there is an amazing amount of 
comfort in this camp, and you will wonder 
how all the supplies are conveyed. In reply 
to your questioning you will learn that they 
are " packed in on horseback " over the same 
trail you have just traveled, and it becomes 
more of a mystery than ever when you find 
that your meal has cost you only seventy-five 
cents. That is the regular charge for meals 
in the Park camps. If you stay over night, 
there will be an extra " six bits " in addition. 
Living in the Park is by no means expen- 
sive. 

One of the most notable views of Mount 



i82 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Rainier is from Reflection Lake, near the 
camp, where, in a little, smooth body of water, 
the snow-clad peak is mirrored upside down. 
It seems to be the picturesque culmination of 
a series of wonderful sights. But you have 
yet to climb Mount Ararat, a short distance 
to the south. At Indian Henry you are at 
considerably more than a mile above sea-level, 
so that an elevation of, say, 6,500 feet won't 
bother you, particularly in that all but about 
500 is already climbed. I mean to suggest 
that unless a man had rheumatism he could 
easily reach the spot where your guide will 
tell you the ark landed. 

The scene is stupendous. To the north the 
peak — overpowering, inscrutable ; sparkling 
white against a background of blue sky, above 
a foreground of greensward dotted with fir 
and pine and cedar. To the south you look 
down into the canyon of the Kautz River, 
which, from this point fully two thousand feet 
above, resembles nothing so much as a piece 
of white cotton thread laid along a strip of 
green velvet. 

The trip to Indian Henry and back to the 
inn can be made comfortably in a day, but it [ 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 183 

deserves a week. The shorter stay, however, 
will fix it in your mind, so if on the follow- 
ing day you are scheduled for a trip to Para- 
dise Valley, there need be no fear that it will 
blur your first impressions. It is fourteen 
miles to Paradise Valley, over one of the 
finest mountain roads in the world. Aside 
from the purely scenic features of this road 
it is remarkable as a triumph of engineering. 
From beginning to end it is twenty-five miles 
— a distance of only twelve miles as the crow 
flies — and it ascends 3,600 feet. Unlike most 
mountain roads, it has no undulations ; the as- 
cent is gradual but steady, and nowhere does 
it become steeper than a four per cent, grade. 
This does not mean that it is ever placid or 
monotonous, either. A hundred times during 
the day you are brought to views any one of 
which would make Mount Rainier National 
Park worth visiting. 

There is a pony trail to Paradise Valley, 
or one may go all of the way by automo- 
bile, but the road's the thing to-day; and so 
the motor is the logical means of transporta- 
tion. It is a matter of three or four miles be- 
fore you come to the foot of the Nisqually 



184 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Glacier, a great chunk of chocolate-colored 
ice from the base of which rushes out the be- 
ginning of the river that bears the same name. 
The glacial water is milky white, and remains 
so for miles down its tortuous course. Now 
the road begins to climb a more decided in- 
cline, and the mounting is the more apparent, 
in that the way lies along the side of a steep 
hill overlooking the canyon of the Nisqually. 
It gets higher and higher, swinging around 
half-circles and climbing to higher levels di- 
rectly above itself — the most perfectly zig- 
zagged road you could imagine — until, where 
it seems to end in space on the brink of a 
beetling cliff, you reach Ricksecker 1 Point, 
named after the engineer who built the road. 
A thousand feet below — at conservative es- 
timate — is the Nisqually River. Beyond are 
the mountains. The scene is one of terrifying, 
beauty, but even when you stop to consider 
that a slip over the side of the road would re-i 
suit in starvation before the end of the trip 
down, you are glad that you have arrived be- 
fore a railing has been put up to remind you 
that this is in a park. The elemental side o\ 
nature here is its greatest fascination. 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 185 

Your interest will not be confined entirely 
to scenery, for there are curious geological 
manifestations — crystallized rock, for in- 
stance, that reminds you of that of the Giant's 
Causeway in Ireland. And there are the mar- 
mots — big rodents that sit out on the rocks 
and sun themselves. They utter a shrill, plain- 
tive whistle that you imitate without much 
trouble and provoke answers from them. And 
there is always the possibility of seeing a bear 
or some other wild animal. 

There are cascades almost without number 
in the Park, and one of the prettiest is Narada 
Falls, where the Paradise River shoots over 
a cliff 185 feet high and swirls on down the 
narrow canyon. The road crosses a bridge 
just above the falls, and a two-minute walk 
brings you within snapshotting distance. 

Then Paradise Valley. It was named from 
an old, unpronounceable Indian appellation 
which had the same significance, and there 
are no records to show that any one has dis- 
puted the appropriateness of the term. The 
Park is about a mile and a half long, a narrow, 
open basin that snuggles close to the base of 
the peak, like a tiny emerald set next to a 



186 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

great diamond. The little Paradise River, 
newly escaped from its prison house of ice, 
meanders deviously through the bottom land 
and disappears in the forest to the west. In 
spring and summer time the place is carpeted 
with wild flowers — mountain asters, rhodo- 
dendron, heather, Indian paint-brush, valerian, 
mountain lily, gentian ; the list is too long to 
give in full. 

It is from Paradise Valley that the ascent 
of Mount Rainier is usually begun. For 
those who have neither the strength nor in- 
clination to climb the peak, but who wish to 
reach one of the glaciers, there is a foot trail 
leading from the valley to Paradise Glacier 
some hundreds of feet above. It is not too 
dangerous for " tenderf eet " who are unaf- 
flicted by giddiness in steep and unprotected 
places, and should be a part of one's experi- 
ence if possible. On the way there is a splen- 
did view of Sluiskin Falls (300 feet), and, 
from the spot where the trail meets the glacial 
moraine, a never-to-be-forgotten panorama of 
Paradise Valley. 

You turn to the glacier, there on the moun- 
tain's side. It is very quiet up there on the 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 187 

snow and ice ; very much the same as it was 
a thousand years ago, and as it will be a 
thousand years hence. When the dispute as 
to whether the peak should be called Mount 
Rainier or Mount Tacoma has been forgotten 
this same glacier will still be moving slowly 
down its sides. 

The top of the mountain is 8,000 feet above, 
but in the clear atmosphere it seems only a 
few hundred feet away. But as you climb 
up over the detritus of pumice and other vol- 
canic rock at the edge of the glacier, the peak 
recedes. At the top of a long and rather steep 
slope you walk out on the snow and look to 
the south, and far across a mass of hazy blue 
mountains rise the two snow peaks, Mount 
St. Helens and Mount Adams, lesser heights 
of the same Cascade Range of which Mount 
Rainier is a part. 

When you are ready to go, your guide says, 
" Follow me ! " which you had intended to do 
until you saw him sit down and coast some 
two or three hundred feet down the side of 
the glacier. You hesitate — and succumb to 
the lure of this natural toboggan slide. It is 
over too soon, and you are half inclined to go 



i88 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

back and do it again. Toboganning, an nat- 
urelj in summer time is an experience worth 
having. 

The following article by F. E. Matthes of 
the U. S. Geological Survey contains many 
valuable suggestions for those who are con- 
templating an ascent of the mountain : 

How to Climb Mount Rainier 

The ascent of Mount Rainier is ordinarily 
made from Paradise Park, by what is known 
as the Gibraltar route. This route, which is 
the one Gen. Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van 
Trump originally selected for their pioneer 
climb in 1870, has proven to be by far the 
safest and most convenient of all the routes 
by which the old volcano has been attacked. 
Besides, it is the only route readily available 
to the tourist public, as it starts on the south 
side of the mountain, which is the only side 
upon which permanent hotels and tourist 
camps are located. The country surrounding 
the other sides of the mountain is still in its 
virgin state of wildness, except for a few 
trails that traverse it, and is frequented only 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 189 

by parties of hardy mountaineers who carry 
their own camping outfits. 

Generally speaking, Mount Rainier is not 
an easy peak to climb. The great altitude of 
its summit (14,408 feet above sea level) and 
the low level of the region about its base (be- 
tween 2,000 and 5,000 feet) combine to make 
the ascent an exceedingly long and exhausting 
one. Dangerously crevassed ice covers a 
large proportion of the mountain's flanks, 
while the sharp ridges between the glaciers 
are composed of treacherous crumbling lava 
and pumice. Those who have set their am- 
bition on making the ascent will do well, there- 
fore, to realize at the outset that there is no 
choice of routes, and that should one lose the 
beaten trail there is little or no hope of ex- 
tricating one's self by another way. Several 
lives have been lost on the mountain, in every 
case by parties venturing out without the aid 
of guides. 

There are several reasons for securing the 
services of a competent guide. In the first 
place, the route does not consist of a definitely 
marked path. It leads for miles over snow 



igo THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

fields on which footprints melt away from one 
day to the next. In the second place, it is 
necessary, in order that one may be able to 
return before dusk, to start out at I o'clock 
in the morning; and, as a consequence, a con- 
siderable distance must be traversed in the 
dark, before daybreak. No one unfamiliar 
with the ground should undertake to do this 
without a guide. Again, the rock climbing up 
the Cowlitz Cleaver and Gibraltar Rock is not 
altogether without hazard, and is not to be 
attempted unaided except by experienced 
mountaineers. 

It is to be recognized, further, that most 
people do not know how to handle themselves 
on a long and difficult ascent, as mountain 
climbing is not with them a daily experience. 
They are apt to rush eagerly at the start, using 
up their strength before the really arduous 
part of the climb is reached. The guide is 
there not merely to show the way, but to tell 
the tourist how to climb, how fast to go, when 
to rest and to take nourishment, and to take 
care of him in case he is overcome with ex- 
haustion or is taken with mountain sickness. 

Finally, account must be taken of the ex- 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 191 

ceeding fickleness of the weather conditions 
on the mountain. Only guides familiar with 
Rainier's many moods can presume to foretell 
whether the day will turn out favorable for 
a climb or not. What may look to the uniniti- 
ated like harmless, fleecy vapors on the sum- 
mit may be the forerunners of a sudden snow- 
storm which no one could hope to live through. 
A majority of those who have perished on 
the mountain have been overcome by bliz- 
zardlike storms. Such storms may occur even 
in midsummer, and on the summit are always 
attended by fierce gales against which it is im- 
possible to hold one's footing. 

Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, is the logi- 
cal base from which to make the climb. It 
lies near the timber line, at an altitude of 
5,500 feet. Accommodations may there be 
had by the day or week ; guides may be se- 
cured, and through them such necessaries as 
alpenstocks, amber glasses, calks, hobnails, 
and actor's paint to protect the face from sun- 
burn, etc. 

The first 4,500 feet of the climb lie for the 
most part, though not wholly, over snow fields. 
These are crisp and hard before the sun 



192 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

touches them, but once softened make very 
heavy walking; hence another reason for 
starting before daybreak. By sunrise one ar- 
rives at Camp Muir (10,000 feet), a saddle 
at the base of a narrow rock spur known as 
the Cowlitz Cleaver. One may make a stop 
here, but there is little comfort to be expected, 
for the place is some 4,000 feet above the high- 
est vegetation and there is neither fuel nor 
water to be had. Rocks piled in low circular 
walls afford partial shelter from the keen 
winds. 

The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite 
taxing, being mostly over rough, angular lava 
blocks. By 8 o'clock, as a rule, the base of 
Gibraltar Rock is reached. A narrow ledge 
is followed along the face of the cliff, part of 
the way overhung by rock masses and huge 
icicles, and this ledge leads to the base of a 
narrow chute between the ice of the upper | 
Nisqually Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. I 
This chute offers the most serious difficulties | 
in the ascent, and women should not attempt | 
it with skirts. Bloomers are here a necessity. 
Ropes are usually suspended from the cliffs, j 
whereby one may assist himself upward. It | 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 193 

is wise to move one at a time, as there is ever 
danger of the persons above starting rock 
debris and ice fragments that may injure those 
below. The ascent and descent of the chute 
are therefore inevitably time consuming. Or- 
dinarily the saddle above Gibraltar (12,679 
feet) is not reached until 10 o'clock. 

From Gibraltar on there remains only a 
long snow slope to climb, but this snow slope 
is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping 
crevasses develop in it which must be skilfully 
avoided by detours. Freshly fallen snow may 
be so deep that one plunges into it to the 
waist, or else the snow may have melted out 
into tapering spines and so-called honeycombs 
many feet high, among which one can not 
travel without considerable exertion. 

The rim of the south crater is usually 
reached about 11 o'clock. It is always bare 
of snow, and shelter from the high gales may 
be found behind the great rock blocks on the 
crest. Metal cases are left here in wKich the 
tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent. 

The crater is always filled with snow and 
may be traversed without risk ; only one 
should be careful near the edges, as the snow 



194 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

there is melted out in caverns by the steam 
jets which rise from beneath it in many places. 
Those having the strength may go on to Co- 
lumbia Crest, the snow dome that constitutes 
the highest summit of the mountain. The re- 
turn to Reese's Camp is easily made in from 
five to six hours. 

In conclusion it may be well to say a word 
of caution to the overambitious. The climb 
is such a long one and the altitude gained so 
high that none but those who have previously 
prepared themselves by preliminary shorter 
climbs can hope to accomplish the feat with 
anything like genuine enjoyment. Altogether 
too many people have attempted the ascent 
immediately upon arrival from the city, with- 
out having permitted their hearts and lungs 
to become accustomed to the rarefied air of 
the higher altitudes, and without having tough- 
ened their muscles for the great task. As a 
consequence they have either come back ex- 
hausted to the verge of collapse or else theyj 
have altogether failed in the undertaking.; 
And there is unfortunately more than one case 
on record of persons who have permanently; 



MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 195 

injured their health by such ill-considered pro- 
ceeding. 

It is wise upon arrival to spend several days 
— the more the better — in climbing about at 
lesser altitudes. A favorite try-out is an as- 
cent of Pinnacle Peak, on the Tatoosh Range. 
It affords useful lessons in every kind of 
climbing that one may be called upon to do in 
conquering the main peak. 

Moderation in diet and the avoidance of 
heavy food of any sort are precautions that 
cannot be too urgently recommended. One 
should bear in mind that he is preparing for 
the most heroic kind of athletic work, and 
that such work is impossible on the conven- 
tional diet followed by most people. 

Before starting on the ascent of Mount 
Rainier, do not eat such articles as fried eggs, 
fried potatoes, hot cakes or heavy pastry. 
Abstain from coffee and tobacco if possible. 
Spirituous liquor of any kind is tabooed, ex- 
cept as a stimulant in case of collapse. Beef 
tea, lean meat, all dry breakfast foods, cocoa, 
sweet chocolate, crackers, hard tack, dry 
bread, rice, raisins, prunes, dates, and tomatoes 



196 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

are in order. The simpler the diet, on the 
whole, the more beneficial it is likely to be. 
Never eat much at a sitting during the ascent, 
but eat often and a little at a time. These 
are rules well known to mountaineers. The 
more faithfully one complies with them the 
higher one's efficiency will be and the keener 
the enjoyment of the trip. 

The northern half of Mount Rainier Na- 
tional Park is almost wholly without tourist 
conveniences, and the visitor must of neces- 
sity carry a camping outfit. Yet for those 
who find their greatest enjoyment in being 
away from the comforts demanded by the 
majority there is much in this section of the 
Park to reward a trip. Carbon Glacier, di- 
rectly north of the peak, is called the most 
beautiful glacier on the mountain. Over the 
Elysian Fields, valleys in the Sluiskin Moun- 
tains, large bands of mountain goats roam 
free. There are lakes and lesser peaks, and 
the same rivers gushing from the glaciers that 
flow imperceptibly down all sides of the moun- 
tain. But the northern half of the Park is for 
the explorer rather than the sightseer. 



VI. 

SEQUOIA AND GENERAL GRANT 
NATIONAL PARKS 

These parks are so nearly contiguous that 
they are generally mentioned and visited to- 
gether. They are situated in Tulare and 
Fresno Counties, California, and are celebrated 
mainly for the groves of big trees within their 
borders. Sequoia is 161,597 acres in extent, 
while General Grant Park covers only 2,536 
acres. 

The tourist season is from June 15 to Octo- 
ber 1. 

How to Reach the Parks 

Sequoia National Park may be reached from 
Visalia on the Southern Pacific and the Atchi- 
son, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroads, and Exeter 
on the Southern Pacific Railroad, thence by 
way of Visalia Electric Railway to Lemon 

Cove, thence 40 miles by stage or private con- 
197 



198 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

veyance to Giant Forest in the park. Auto 
stages leave Lemon Cove Mondays, Wednes- 
days and Fridays at 10 a. m. ; arrive Giant 
Forest, Sequoia National Park (40 miles), 3 
p. M. 

Stages leave Giant Forest Tuesday, Thurs- 
days, and Saturdays at 7 a. m. ; arrive Lemon 
Cove 1 p. m. 

Special trips will be made on alternate days 
under the same time schedule when two or 
more passengers are available, 

Stage fares to Sequoia National Park. 

Between Lemon Cove and Giant Forest, one way, 
$6.50; round trip, $12. 

Between Three Rivers and Giant Forest, one way, 
$5; round trip, $10. 

Children under 12 years of age, one-half fare. 

Baggage allowance, 40 pounds; excess baggage, 2 
cents per pound. 

Express, 2 cents per pound; minimum charge, 25 
cents. 

General Grant National Park can be reached 
from Sanger, on the Southern Pacific Railway, 
thence by automobile stage or private con- 
veyance, a distance of 46 miles to the park. 



GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK 199 

Stage fares to General Grant National Park. 

From Sanger to General Grant National Park, 
$5-50. 

From General Grant National Park to Sanger, $4. 

Round trip, $8. 

Baggage allowance, 50 pounds; excess baggage, 
$1.25 per 100 pounds. 

Touring cars, operated by the Kings River- 
Hume Auto Service Co. (address, Sanger, 
Cal.), will leave Sanger each morning (except 
Sunday) at 9 a. m. and arrive at General 
Grant National Park at 2 .-30 p. m., leaving 
General Grant National Park at 9 a. m. and 
arriving in Sanger at 2 p. m. 

An automobile, operated by Calvin Marple 
(address, Sanger, Cal.), will leave Sanger 
for Hume via General Grant National Park, 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday of each week 
at 9 a. m. Leave Sanger for Hume Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday of each week at 7 
a. m. Leave Hume for Sanger via General 
Grant National Park daily at 7 a. m. 

General Grant National Park may also be 
reached from Dinuba and Reedley on the 
Southern Pacific and Atchison, Topeka & Santa 
Fe Railways, but special arrangements must 



200 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

be made for transportation from these points to 
the park. 

Camps and Transportation Within the Parks 
Sequoia National Park 

At the Giant Forest there is a general store, 
telephone station, feed yard, photogragh gal- 
lery, and post-office ; the name of the post- 
office is Giant Forest, Cal. 

Walter E. Kenny, Madera, Cal, has a li- 
cense to maintain a camp and to furnish meals 
and lodging. The authorized rates are as fol- 
lows: 

i 

Authorised rates at camp of Walter E. Kenney. J 

Board and lodging in camp : 

One person, per day $325! 

One person, per week 18.00J 

One person, four weeks 68.oq 

Two persons, per day, each 3.00 

Two persons, per week, each 16.50 

Two persons, four weeks, each 60 

Meals without lodging: 

Breakfast and lunch, each 75 

Dinner 1.00 

Lodging without meals 1.00 

Baths .351 

Guests desiring extra tent room will be charged as 

follows ; l 



00 



GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK 201 

Tent capacity of four people occupied by two, 50 
cents each per day extra. 

Tent capacity of two people occupied by one, 50 
cents per day extra. 

The Sequoia National Park Transportation 
Co., operates an auto stage service from Giant 
Forest to points of interest in the park at the 
following rates ; 

Authorized rates of Sequoia National Park 
Transportation Co, 

Parker Group, Moro Rock, and return — 

One person $1.00 

Four or more, each 75 

Admiration Point and return — 

One person 3.00 

Four or more, each 1.50 

General Sherman Tree and return — 

One person 1 .00 

Four or more, each , 50 

General Sherman Tree and Wolverton — 

One person 2.00 

Four or more, each . , , UMIM .75 

Chester Wright, Giant Forest, Cal., has a 
license to conduct a saddle and pack animal 
transportation service in the Sequoia National 
Park. The authorizel rates are as follows ; 



202 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Authorised rates of Chester Wright for guides 
and horses. 

Parties can hire saddle horses and pack mules at 
$1.50 per day each, but in all cases guide must ac- 
company same, at $3 per day, the guide taking charge 
of packing and relieving tourists of responsibility 
for animals. All animals will be equipped with 
riding or pack saddles. 

TRIPS IN THE PARK AND VICINITY. 

To Sherman Tree and return. $2.00 

To Sherman Tree, Wolverton, and return by 

Circle Meadow 3.00 

To Moro Rock and return 2. 

To Moro Rock and return by Crescent Log 

and Huckleberry Meadows 2 

To Alta and return ; 

To Twin Lakes and return. : 

To Admiration Point and return J." 

To Moro Rock, Crescent Log, Huckleberry 

Meadows, and Wolverton, and Sherman 

Tree 3-So 

Parties wishing to make long trips will be fur- 
nished with special rates. 

FEEDING ANIMALS. 

Feeding animals, hay, each, per night $0.75 

Feeding animals, hay and barley, each, per night 1.50 

General Grant National Park 

Mrs. Mattie Decker maintains a camp in the 
General Grant Park under annual license from 



GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK 203 

the Interior Department. The authorized rates 
are as follows : 

Rates for camp accommodations in General Grant 
National Park. 

Board and lodging: 

Per day $2.00 

Per week 14.00 

Per month 50.00 

Lodging, 1 night 75 

Single meal 50 

Feeding animals, hay, each, per night 75 

Feeding animals, hay and barley, each, per night 1.50 

At this camp there are also telephone sta- 
tion, general store, feed yard, photographic 
gallery, and post-office; the name of the post- 
office is General Grant National Park, Cal. 

Peter Haux, whose address is Travers, Cal., 
is authorized to operate a saddle, pack, and 
wagon transportation service in the General 
Grant National Park over roads and trails not 
suitable for automobile transportation, and his 
rates for such service are as follows : 

Authorized rates of Peter Haux for guides 
and horses. 

Per day. 

Two horses and wagon, including driver $5.00 

Saddle horse, fully equipped 1.50 



2o 4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Pack horse, fully equipped , - . $1.50 

Pack burro, fully equipped 1.00 

Guide, fully equipped 3.50 

Packs on horses and mules limited to 175 pounds; 
on burros to 140 pounds. 

In cases where guides do not accompany pack or 
transportation service, the parties hiring the animals 
will be held accountable for any loss or damage sus- 
tained by the animals or their equipment. 



What to See 

The streams and lakes in these parks afford 
splendid trout fishing, boating, and bathing. 
The waters are all pure and fit to drink. The 
forests contain the largest, oldest, tallest, and 
most valuable trees in the world. Aside from 
the giant sequoia, there are other forests of 
pine, fir, cedar, and many deciduous trees that 
are truly royal. There are many shrubs, wild 
flowers, ferns, and mosses of superb beauty, 
while frolicking wild animals and beautiful 
song birds are another enjoyable and attrac- 
tive feature of the parks. 

Within the forest of the parks, are 13 dif- 
ferent groves of sequoia timber. The follow- 
ing table gives the names of the groves, the 
approximate area, number of trees exceeding 



GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK 205 

10 feet in diameter, and the total number of 
trees of all sizes : 



Sequoia Groves of the Parks. 

Trees ex- 
Area ceeding 10 
Names. Acres. feet in 

diameter. 

Sequoia National Park : 

Giant Forest Grove 3,200 5,000 

Muir Grove 2,240 3,000 

Garfield Grove 1,820 2,500 

Atwell Grove 850 590 

Dennison Grove 480 500 

Swanee River Grove 320 129 

Squirrel Creek Grove... 90 91 

Redwood Creek Grove. . 70 70 

Salt Creek Grove 60 10 

Homer Nose Grove 25 5 

Lost Grove 10 9 

Eden Grove 10 6 

General Grant National 
Park: 

General Grant Grove... 235 190 



Total 
number 
trees of 
all sizes. 



500,000 

350,100 

3OO4OO 

2,000 

1,175 

1,000 

2O0 

500 

50 

25 

500 

50 



TO.OOO 



Total 9,410 12,100 1,166,000 



In four of the groves above mentioned cer- 
tain trees within them have been named, while 
in all other groves they have not. The fol- 
lowing is a list of a few of the principal trees, 
with their names, height, and diameter : 



2q6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 
Height and Diameter of Principal Trees. 

GIANT FOREST GROVE. 

General Sherman, height, 279.9 feet; diameter, 36.5 
feet. 

Abraham Lincoln, height, 270 feet; diameter, 31 
feet. 

William McKinley, height, 291 feet; diameter, 28 
feet. 

MUIR GROVE. 

Dalton, height, 292 feet; diameter, 27 feet. 

GARFIELD GROVE. 

California, height, 260 feet; diameter, 30 feet. 

GENERAL GRANT GROVE. 

General Grant, height, 264 feet; diameter, 35 feet. 
George Washington, height, 255 feet; diameter, 29 
feet. 

The General Sherman Tree, the largest in 
the world, was discovered by James Wolver- 
ton, a hunter and trapper, on August 7, 1879, 
at which time he named the tree in honor of 
General Sherman, under whom he had served 
during the war. The dimensions of this tree 
are as follows : 



Dimensions of General Sherman Tree. 

Feet. 

Height 279.9 

Base circumference .. 102.8 

Base diameter 32.7 



GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK 207 

Greatest diameter at base , 4 36.5 

Circumference 6 feet above ground. 86 

Diameter 6 feet above ground 27.4 

Diameter 100 feet above ground 17.7 

The General Grant Tree was named by Mrs. 
Lucretia P. Baker, who was a member of the 
party which camped near the tree in August, 
1867. This tree has a height of 264 feet and 
a base diameter of 35 feet. 

There are many trees in some of the groves 
and in fact some in each of the groves that 
compare favorably in size to those herein 
given. It is to be understood that the sequoia 
in these groups do not grow to the exclusion 
of other kinds of trees, but are interspersed 
with other growths of coniferous species. 

Although the big trees are the most dis- 
tinctive features of these parks, there are many 
other points of interest that the traveler 
thither should make any effort to visit. At 
Twin Lakes on the northern border of Sequoia 
Park (reached by pony trail) is one of the 
most beautiful sights, and those who like to 
fish will be able to gratify their taste admira- 
bly. Another interesting horseback ride is to 
Hospital Rock, where in a prehistoric age 



208 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

lived a race of people who left painted hiero- 
glyphics which may be read, but not translated, 
to-day. Paradise Cave, which can be reached 
by wagon, has, besides beauty, the added in- 
terest of never having been fully explored. 
At Elk Park a herd of elk is kept. 



VII 

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 

Like Mount Rainier National Park, this is a 
park of one great distinguishing feature. The 
159,360 acres which comprise Crater Lake Na- 
tional Park embrace some of the finest scenery 
in the Cascade Range of southern Oregon, 
but the principal point of interest is Crater 
Lake, a body of water having an area of 20 T 4 
square miles, which is situated in the crater of 
an extinct volcano. 

The tourist season extends from July 1 to 
September 30. 

How to Reach the Park 
The park may be reached from Klamath 
Falls and Medford, on the Southern Pacific 
Railroad. Medford is on the main line between 
San Francisco and Portland — the Shasta 
Route, while Klamath Falls is on the Klamath 
Falls branch, which connects with the main 
line at Weed, Cal. 



209 



210 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The Southern Pacific Co. will sell excursion 
tickets to Crater Lake from June 29 to Sep- 
tember 25, inclusive. Rates may be obtained 
from local agents. 

Section 27 of circular 2917 of the Southern 
Pacific Co. contains the following regulations 
governing stop-overs to visit Crater Lake : 



All classes of tickets covering passage between 
Roseville or Davis, Cal., or points beyond, and Port- 
land, Oreg., or points beyond, will be honored inl 
direction they read any day from July 1 to September 
25, 1917, and during same period of subsequent years,| 
via Weed, Cal., to Klamath Falls or Kirk, Oreg., and! 
from Medford, Oreg., or vice versa, without addi-j 
tional charge, when passengers desire to visit Craterj 
Lake National Park, Oreg. 

Between Klamath Falls or Kirk and Medford^ 
Oreg., passengers must pay their own transportation 
expense. . . . (Rates will be found on page 9.) 

Passengers desiring to make the side trip should 
so inform train conductor into Klamath Falls 01 
Kirk or Medford, as may be. The latter will indorse 
tickets, "Off at Klamath Falls," or "Off at Kirk," 01 
"Off at Medford," as may be, showing train numbe^ 
and date, thereafter signing his name. 

Extension of limits. — On application of holder t<j 
agent at Klamath Falls on southbound tickets ant 
to agent at Medford on northbound tickets, limit? 
on first or second-class one-way continuous trij 
tickets will be extended the number of days conl 



CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 211 

sumed in making the Crater Lake National Park trip, 
not to exceed 10 days. The time consumed in mak- 
ing Crater Lake trip will be reckoned from date of 
conductor's indorsement on ticket as per item 1, this 
section. 

Baggage. — Hand baggage not to exceed 25 pounds 
in weight will be transported with each whole-fare 
passenger free of charge between Klamath Falls or 
Kirk and Medford. Excess baggage charges will be 
at rate of 2 cents per pound. Trunks or other heavy 
•baggage will not be handled over the route shown, 
necessitating their transportation over Southern Pa- 
cific Co. direct. 

See baggage tariff No. 3 (F. W. Hodges, agent), 
I. C. C. No. 7, C R. C. No. 5, P- S. C. Or. No. 1 
supplements thereto or reissues thereof, relative 
waiving charge for storage of baggage at specified 
points for passengers making Crater Lake National 
Park trip as above. 



The Crater Lake Co. operates a daily auto- 
mobile service between Medford and Crater 
Lake and between Klamath Falls and Crater 
Lake. 

Automobiles leave the Hotels Medford and 
Nash, Medford, at 9 a. m. daily, stop for lunch 
at Prospect, and reach Crater Lake at 4 p. m. 
Returning leave Crater Lake at 9 a. m. daily, 
reaching Medford in time to connect with the 
outgoing evening trains, 



212 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Automobiles leave White Pelican Hotel, 
Klamath Falls, at 7 130 a. m., and arrive at 
Crater Lake Lodge at noon ; returning, leave 
Crater Lake Lodge at 1 p. m., and arrive at 
Hotel Pelican at 6 p. m. 



Automobile rates from Medford and Klamath Falls 
to Crater Lake. 

Medford to Crater Lake and return $15.00 

One way (either direction) 8.50 

Klamath Falls to Crater Lake and return. .... 12.50 
One way (either direction) 8.00 

Medford to Crater Lake, thence to Klamath 

Falls, or vice versa 15.00 

Accommodations and Transportation— Costs 

The Crater Lake Company, under a conces- 
sion from the Department of the Interior, 
operates a camp 5 miles from the lake and a 
hotel and camp on the rim of the lake, but 
every person is at liberty to provide his own 
means of transportation and to camp, subject 
to regulations. 

Crater Lake Lodge, on the rim of the lake, 
is of stone and frame construction and contains 
64 sleeping rooms, with ample bathing facilities 



CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 213 

as well as fire protection. Tents are provided 
at the lodge as sleeping quarters for those who 
prefer them, meals being taken at the lodge., 
At Anna Spring Camp, 5 miles below the 
rim of Crater Lake, the company maintains a 
camp for the accommodation of guests, a gen- 
eral store (with branch at Crater Lake lodge) 
for the sale of provisions and campers' sup- 
plies, and a livery barn. 

The authorized rates are as follows ; 

Rates at Crater Lake Lodge. 

Board and lodging (lodging in tents), one per- 
son : 

Per day $3.25 

Per week i7-5o 

Board and lodging, two or more persons in one 
tent: 

Per day, each 3.00 

Per week, each 15.00 

Lodging in tents : 

One person, per night 1.00 

Two or more persons in one tent, per night, 

each 75 

Board and lodging (lodging in hotel), one per- 
son: 

Per day 3-75 

Per week 20.00 



2i 4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Board and lodging, two or more persons in one 
room : 

Per day, each $3.50 

Per week^ each 17-50 

Lodging in hotel: 

One person, per night 1.50 

Two or more persons in one room, per 

night, each 1.25 

In hotel rooms, with hot and cold water : 
Board and lodging, one person — 

Per day 4.25 

Per week 22.50 

Board and lodging, two or more persons 
in room — 

Per day, each 4.00 

Per week, each 20.00 

Lodging- 
One person, per night 2.00 

Two or more persons in one room, per 

night, each 1.75 

Baths (extra) — to house guests, 25 cents: 

to others 50 

Fires in rooms (extra) 25 

Single meals 1.00 

Rates at Anna Spring tent camp. 

Board and lodging, each person : 

Per day 2.50 

Per week 15.00 

Meals : 

Breakfast or lunch 50 

Dinner .75 

Children under 10 years, half rates at lodge or 

camp. 



CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 215 

Automobiles are allowed in the park under 
regulations. The Crater Lake Co., under a 
concession from the Department of the Inter- 
ior, operates an automobile, saddle horse, and 
stage transportation service for the accommo- 
dation of the hotel guests and other tourists ; 
but every person is at liberty to provide his 
own means of transportation and to camp, 
subject to regulations. 

Fares for automobile and launch trips and 
rates for guides, horses, and rowboats are as 
follows ; 

Transportation rates. 

AUTOMOBILE. 

Fare between Anna Spring Camp and Crater 
Lake Lodge : 

One way $0.50 

Round trip 1.00 

Transportation, per mile, within the park 10 

Special trips will be made when parties of four 
or more are made up, as follows : 
To Anna Creek Canyon, including Dewie 
Canyon and Garden of the Gods, 24-mile 

trip, for each person 2.00 

To Cloud Cap, including Kerr Notch, 
Sentinel Rock, and Red Cloud Cliff and 
Pinnacles, 40-mile trip, for each person.. 3.00 



216 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The Sunset Drive, from Crater Lake Lodge 
to summit of road at Watchman, at sun- 
set, io-mile trip, for each person $1.00 

HORSE. 

Saddle horses, pack animals, and burros (when 
furnished) : 

Per hour $0.50 

Per day 3.00 

Service of guide, with horse: 

Per hour 1.00 

Per day 3.00 

On Crater Lake. 
Launch trip: 

Wizard Island and return, per person 50 

Around Wizard Island and Phantom Ship 

and return (about 15 miles), per person. 2.00 

Around the lake 2.50 

Rowboats : 

Per hour 50 

Per day 2.50 

With boat puller, per hour 1.00 

With detachable motor — 

Per hour 1.00 

Per day 5.00 

What to See 

No scenic wonder of America has quite the 
same fantastic interest at Crater Lake. Ages 
ago fire and lava belched forth from the bowels 
of the earth where now lies a lake of the 



CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 217 

purest ultramarine water nearly a third of a 
mile deep (1996 feet). And to its beauty is 
added mystery, for there are neither rivers 
flowing into the lake, nor outlets, and yet the 
water remains pure and sweet. Scientists be- 
lieve that subterranean rivers are responsible. 

The subsiding of a volcano the size of 
Mount Shasta (14,380 feet) made a place for 
Crater Lake. It is a roughly circular body of 
water nearly five miles from shore to shore, 
and its enclosing walls of igneous rock rise 
from 500 to 2,000 feet above the surface of 
the water. Seen from any point, the lake pre- 
sents a beautiful and spectacular view. The 
surface of the lake was 6,177 feet above sea- 
level in 1908. Near the west shore is Wizard 
Island (763 feet high), an extinct volcanic 
cone, which furnishes a curious example of 
a crater within a crater. Just off the south 
shore is Phantom Ship, composed of columns 
of rock extending 162 feet in the air, and re- 
sembling a ship. 

A trip to Wizard Island by launch and a 
cruise around the lake should be on the pro- 
gram of every visitor. Following are the prin- 
cipal points of interest in the Park. 



.218 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



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VIII 

mount Mckinley, Hawaii, and 
lassen volcanic 

Mount McKinley National Park was estab- 
lished in 1917, and its area of 2,200 square 
miles is second only to that of the Yellow- 
stone. It is in the south-central part of Alaska 
and contains the loftiest mountain in North 
America — Mount McKinley, 20,300 feet. It is 
reached from Seattle, Washington, via the 
"Inside Passage" to Skagway, by rail through 
White Pass to Whitehorse, and thence by 
river steamer to Nenana from where the park 
is reached by pack train. It is totally unde- 
veloped for tourist, but it offers much to the 
man or woman who is used to camp and 
saddle. 

The south side of Mount McKinley, which 
is the stupendous climax of the Alaskan range, 
is nearly impassable. It is covered by glaciers 
of enormous bulk, and the annual snowfall in 

219 



22o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



some places reaches a depth of sixty feet. On I 
the north side is a rolling country dotted with 
beautiful lakes and forests and inhabited by j 
great herds of caribou, bighorns, moose and 
deer, as well as the huge Alaskan bear. This 
region says Stephen R. Capps, 1 "offers re-, 
markable opportunities for the lover of wildi 
life to study our big game animals in their 
natural surroundings. Not only are mountain 
sheep, caribou, moose and bear present in 
astonishing numbers, but in this area so far 
removed from traveled roads they are un- 
afraid and frankly curious of man. . . A 
At the north edge of the park we camped for' 
two days near a high clay bluff, to which the| 
mountain sheep came to eat the mud and thus! 
obtain the salts they crave. . . . Mountain' 
sheep are usually the shyest and most cautious! 
of animals, but here they watched me in aston-i 
ished interest until I approached within a hun- 
dred feet or so of them, upon which they re- 
luctantly left the lick. A spring only a fewl 
miles farther seems in a like way to supply! 
the moose with mineral salts. There we saw, 



'Travel, May, 1917, "Mount McKinley, a New National 
Park." 



Mckinley, hawaii & lassen volcanic 221 

a group of seven or eight moose, bulls, cows 
and calves, that refused to take fright until 
we were in their very midst. . . . 

"There are many valleys in the high moun- 
tains where only the most unobserving could 
fail to see daily large bands of mountain sheep. 
On many excursions into these valleys I have 
in a single day counted from ioo tp 325 sheep 
without making any especial effort to locate 
the herds. ... Of the big game in this district 
the caribou are next in abundance to the sheep 
and they congregate in even larger bands. As 
far eastward as the Nanana River we saw cari- 
bou, most of them old bulls, singly or in groups 
of three or four. During the summer months 
most of the bulls leave the cows and calves and 
retire into seclusion for the period during 
which their horns are in the velvet. . . . One 
day on Toklat River I came upon a herd of 
190 caribou standing out upon the bare gravel 
bars of the river to secure what relief the wind 
could bring them from the insects. . . . Al- 
though watchful and cautious, they had so little 
fear of my approach that they only moved off 
slowly, so as to keep a respectful distance away 
from me. For the next week we daily saw 



222 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA ( c 

caribou by the hundreds. The climax camef 
when, on the divide between Toklat and Stonyf 
Rivers, our two pack trains and eight men'' 
stood in the midst of a vast herd of caribou u 
scattered over the valley floor and mountain 
sides on all sides of us. Immediately below us 
and only a couple of hundred yards away one 
band of over 500 animals moved slowly abouti 
To the right and but a little farther away an-ii 
other band equally large was feeding, while m\ 
the distance many smaller groups were scat J; 
tered. We all counted what we could of the;' 
nearest herds and estimated the numbers of 
those farther away, and our most conservative- 1 
estimate of the number of caribou actually in}' 
sight at one time was 1,500." 

Scenically, Mount McKinley National Park 
is beyond adequate description. Robert Ster^ ; 
ling Yard of the National Parks Service says ^ 
"Its gigantic ice-covered bulk rises more than 
17,000 feet above the eyes of the observer! 
standing within the national park. It is ice-|j 
plated 14,000 feet below its glistening summit. 
It matches the Himalayas ; as a spectacle 1 
Mount McKinley even excels their loftiest,- 1 
peaks, for the altitude of the valleys from 



Mckinley, hawaii & lassen volcanic 223 

which the Himalayas are viewed exceeds by 
many thousand feet that of the plains from 
which the awed visitor looks up to McKinley's 
towering height." 

Plans are under way to make this park ac- 
cessible to the tourist. 

Hawaii 

The Hawaii National Park is in four sec- 
tions aggregating 75,295 acres. Within these 
sections, on the islands of Hawaii and Maui, 
are two of the most famous active volcanoes 
in the world, Mauna Loa and Kilauea, and 
another volcano, Haleakala, now dormant for 
nearly 200 years. There is also a lava lake, a 
mass of fire 1,000 feet in diameter. 

The Hawaiian volcanoes are unique of their 
kind. Kilauea crater has been almost continu- 
ously active for a century. Mauna Loa is the 
largest active volcano and mountain mass in 
the world, erupting about once every ten years, 
and has poured out more lava in the last cen- 
tury than any other volcano. Haleakala is 
10,000 feet high, and the crater in its summit 
lis eight miles in diameter and 3,000 feet deep. 
|A11 of these volcanoes present magnificent spec- 



224 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

tacles, both by day and night. The park also | 
includes gorgeous tropical jungles and fine for- f 
ests, and sandalwood, which is elsewhere ex- [ 
tinct, grows there luxuriantly. 

Lassen Volcanic 

This park was established in 19 16, two years [ 
after the recent eruptions began. It is in north- f 
central California, 210 miles from San Fran- 
cisco, and is 124 square miles in area. It in- 
cludes the famous Lassen Peak (10,465 feet), J 
which is the only active volcano in the United 
States. Cinder Cone (6,907 feet), another} 
peak within the park, also showed some activity I 
a few years ago. Among the other attractions [ 
are hot springs and mud geysers, lakes and 
trout streams, ice caves, lakes of volcanic glass, 
and beautiful canyons and forests. 

Nearly 10,000 people a year are now visiting 
Lassen Volcanic National Park, although the 
only accommodations for tourists are to be had 
from owners of patented lands within the 
boundaries of the park. It is accessible to 
motorists from the California State highways 
and from the Southern Pacific Railroad at Red- 
ding:. 



Mckinley, Hawaii & lassen volcanic 225 

' Lassen is the southern terminal peak of the 
Cascade Range, and is one of the celebrated 
series of peaks including Mount Ranier and 
Mount Shasta (which still emit hot gases), 
Mount Baker, Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood, 
and what was once Mount Mazama (now 
Crater Lake). As late as 1843 Mounts Baker 
and St. Helens were in eruption. 

Recent eruptions of Lassen Peak began on 
May 30, 1914, and more than 150 occurred the 
first year. In some of these smoke was dis- 
charged to a height of 10,000 feet. A few 
stones were thrown a mile high, the largest of 
those dropped on the rim weighing sixty tons. 
Devastating eruptions occurred on the evening 
of May 19, 1915, and the other in the afternoon 
three days later. Luminous fragments could 
be seen flying through the air and flashes of 
light were reflected in the clouds over the 
crater. Snow on the slopes was instantly con- 
verted into water, and its tremendous force, 
with the hot gases, swept a path ten miles long 
and nearly a mile wide. 

There is no record of any fatalities as yet 
from the volcano, but those who contemplate 
attempting to ascend the peak should seek ad- 



226 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

vice from experienced members of the United 
States Geological Survey. 

Smaller National Parks 

The Wind Cave National Park is in the 
Black Hills of southwestern South Dakota. It 
is twelve miles from Hot Springs, on the Chi- 
cago, Burlington and Quincy and the Chicago 
and Northwestern Railroads, and is reached by 
private conveyance. It is celebrated for a lime- 
stone cave whose extent can only be guessed 
at. It is called Wind Cave from the current 
of air, often very swift, that blows intermit- I 
tently in and out of its mouth, varying in speed | 
and direction in response to changing condi- j 
tions of atmospheric pressure. The park's area j 
is 10,522 acres. 

The Piatt National Park in southern Okla- 1 
homa was established for the conservation of 
its curative springs. Its extent is only 850 ' 
acres, only slightly more than that of Central 
Park, New York City. 

Casa Grande Ruin in south-central Arizona 
includes but 480 acres. The ruin is an inter- 
esting one, however. The Pima Indians claim 
i f as the home of their ancestors, and many 



Mckinley, hawaii & lassen volcanic 227 

mounds in the neighborhood indicate that it 
was once one of a large group of dwellings of 
some importance. It was discovered by the 
Jesuit missionary Father Eusebio Francisco 
Kino at the end of the 17th century. 

Sullys Hill Park is in northeastern North 
Dakota and contains 768 acres. It is of slight 
importance compared with the other national 
parks, 



IX 

MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 

Mesa Verde National Park comprises 41,- 
920 acres 1 in Montezuma Co., Colo., adjacent 
to the Southern Ute Indian Reservation. 
Here are the ruins of the habitations of a race 
that vanished ages ago, perhaps contemporane- 
ous with or even antedating the monuments of 
ancient Egypt. In the numerous canyons of 
the Mesa Verde (Spanish for "green 
plateau") are about 300 cliff-dwellings, of 
which the three largest have been repaired and 
made to appear as near as possible to their 
original state. 

The highest point in the park is 8,574 feet 
above sea level, and the months of July, 
August and September offer the best time for 
the trip thither, although the tourist season is 
from June 1 to September 30. 

1 About three times as large as the borough of Manhattan, 
New York City. 

228 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 229 

How to Reach the Park 

The headquarters of the park is at Mancos, 
Colo., 8 miles from the park boundary. This 
town is on the Rio Grande Southern line, a 
part of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad 
system, and from this point an automobile stage 
line is operated to and through the park. The 
trip to Mancos may be made by diverse routes. 
The tourist may procure through tickets cover- 
ing rail transportation going and returning via 
Alamosa, Colo., or going and returning via 
Ridgway and Gunnison, Colo. Or the trip 
may be made in one direction via Alamosa, and 
in the other direction via Ridgway and Gun- 
nison. A third route is in one direction via 
Alamosa, and in the other direction via Ridg- 
way and Grand Junction, Colo. Through 
round-trip tickets to the park itself (Spruce 
Tree House) are only $10 higher than the 
railroad ticket to Mancos. 

Automobiles will leave Mancos, 2 p. m. ; 
leave Spruce Tree Camp, 8 a. m. Time con- 
sumed each direction, between Mancos and 
Mesa Verde National Park, three hours. 

Tickets to Mancos, Colo., will be validated 



2 3 o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

for return passage by agent for Rio Grande 
Southern, while those sold to Mesa Verde Na- 
tional Park will be validated at Spruce Tree 
Camp, Mesa Verde National Park, or by agent 
for Rio Grande Southern Railroad, Mancos, 
Colo. 

Baggage should only be checked to Mancos, 
Colo. The auto stage company will carry not 
to exceed 50 pounds free allowance. Persons 
having baggage in excess of 50 pounds can 
make special arrangements at Mancos, Colo., 
with the Kelly Auto Livery Co. for its trans- 
portation to Mesa Verde National Park and 
return. 

Transportation and Camps in the Park 

Parties desiring to camp within the park 
may obtain suitable outfits and provisions in 
Mancos, Cortez, or Dolores at market rates, 
which are reasonable. Guides may be had 
either at Mancos or Cortez. Mancos is prefer- 
able as a starting point for the ruins, as it is 
on the line of the railroad. Cortez may be 
reached by stage from Dolores. The two 
towns are about equal size. 

Mrs. Oddie L. Jeep, Mancos, Colo., main- 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 231 

tains a tourist camp near Spruce Tree House. 
Rates, 75 cents for each meal and 75 cents for 
bed. 

The Kelly Auto Livery has a concession to 
transport tourists by automobile through and 
in the park. Autos leave Mancos on arrival 
of train from west, returning the following day 
in time for train going west ; rate, $10 for the 
round trip. A service will also be maintained 
from Spruce Tree Camp to Cliff Palace and 
Balcony House, at $1 for the round trip; and 
from Spruce Tree Camp to Sun Temple, $1 for 
the round trip. 

What to See 1 
This mysterious region is reached from 
Mancos, a pretty little town that nestles at the 
foot of the great La Plata Mountains, whose 
backbone and ribs are gold, silver, lead, copper, 
zinc and precious stones, and where men are 
delving into the earth by a system of shafts, 
cross-cuts and tunnels miles in extent. Our 
road passes through this beautiful Mancos 
Valley, whose every acre is owned and culti- 
vated by prosperous farmers, and at a distance 

1 Quoted largely from " The Cliff Dwellings of Colorado," 
by S. E. Shoemaker. — Travel, Aug., 1912. 



232 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

of eight miles from the town we reach the park 
line. Here is the beginning of what will be 
when completed the finest scenic road in all 
the world. Rising on our left a thousand feet 
or more is Lookout Point, a sentinel at the 
gateway of the Park. Foot by foot the road 
rises and gradually there is unfolded one of 
the most beautiful panoramas in the South- 
west. At the head of Morfield Canyon we are 
about one-third the way up, and here the road 
forms a half circle around a cone-shaped hill. 
From one saddle in the rim rock Montezuma 
Valley is spread before you — a checkerboard 
of farms brown with ripening grain and green 
with orchards. At the highest point on the 
Mesa, 8,574 ^ eet above sea level, we have a 
splendid panoramic view of the whole park. 
Looking west of north, over and beyond Mon- 
tezuma Valley we see the Blue Mountains in 
Utah, 140 miles away, made famous years gone 
by through being the rendezvous of all the 
malefactors of the Southwest. Those moun- 
tains you see in the distance are the La Sals, 
nearly 200 miles from where we stand as the 
crow flies. To the right is the Uncompahgre 
Plateau, whose history is a long and interest- 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 233 

ing one. Off here to the west is the famous 
McElmo Canyon, where the prettiest apples in 
all the world are grown. Just south of the 
McElmo is the Ute Mountain, said to hold 
some very rich treasures of gold and silver. 
To the south the great Mesa Verde National 
Park is spread out in one grand panorama. 
The rim rock of the south, east and west is 
accessible only by way of very rough trails 
made by Indian hunters when the park was 
full of game. Just at your feet you see deep 
scars in the evergreen face of the park. They 
are the great canyons in whose walls are found 
the dwellings that have been mute and silent 
for many, many moons, whose owners were 
as numerous in their day as many of our well- 
populated counties of the New England States. 
No one knows when this ancient people lived 
and flourished, but if these silent canyons could 
speak, what a weird and wonderful story might 
be revealed ! 

That dark, lone Sierra, eighty miles dis- 
tant, is the far-famed Cariso Mountain on the 
Navajo Indian Reservation, whose legends out- 
rival the stories of the Arabian Nights. Count- 
less murders and dark deeds are attributed to 



2 3 4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

that famous old war chief of the Navajo, Black 
Horse, and his clan, whose summer home was 
on Beautiful Mountain or Sake He Zune, 
which you can see just off the southern slope 
of the Carisos. That spire of red sandstone 
that rises in the plains beyond the rim rock 
of our park is known by the white settlers as 
Ship Rock, to the Navajo as Sabeti, or the 
eagle feather, because from some points on the 
Cariso Mountains Sabeti looks much like an 
enormous bird resting on its wings. A legend 
of the Navajo is that it is the remains of the 
monster bird who came from far north, 
freighted with a human cargo of the first Nav- 
ajos, or Dena people, who were driven south 
by the extreme cold and began the population 
of the great Navajo country. 

As we pass along you will observe some very 
large ruins, a reservoir and other signs of 
rnodes and methods of existence, and we soon 
reach the camp near the ruin known as Spruce 
Tree House. I am not aware who named this 
ruin, yet it is said that they were the early 
curio hunters and that they chose the title be- 
cause there was a large spruce tree growing 
out of one of the buildings at this village. The 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 235 

walls of the buildings are of stone and bespeak 
for the ancient builders considerable knowledge 
of architecture and masonry. Each stone is 
dressed to fit its particular place and bound into 
the wall as well as and even better than some 
of our modern masonry. The surfaces of the 
walls are smooth and plumb. By actual meas- 
urement this silent city of the ancients is 216 
feet long by 89 feet wide. It contains 114 
rooms and eight ceremonial chambers, or ki- 
vas, and the number of inhabitants is sup- 
posed to have been between three and four 
hundred. 

These builders must have had a knowledge 
of close measure. Here are eight kivas, round 
as a wheel, all alike in size, the fireplaces ex- 
actly in the center of each. The two- and 
three-story buildings are placed in regular or- 
der, being built square, one above the other, 
until the last story found a roof in the ceiling 
of his great cave. You must make your own 
deductions as to the age of these old places. 
We have the theory of those who have been 
delving into this wonderful work for the past 
quarter of a century, yet even they hesitate 
to name the people or say who or what they 



236 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

were, or name the number of seasons that 
have passed since they chanted their strange 
songs. 

We will now pass on to Cliff Palace, which 
is much larger than Spruce Tree House but 
similar in architecture, although in some in- 
stances superior in workmanship and prepared 
for defense. Cliff Palace stands a thousand 
feet above the trail in the bottom of the canyon 
and some 300 feet below the rim rock. It 
has a commanding view of this remarkable 
gorge. In the opposite walls of the canyon are 
numerous dwellings of the same character but 
smaller. All of these you see from the plaza 
where w r e stand. We know nothing of the 
kind of government in use by these people, yet 
we may assume that they, like all other mem- 
bers of the human race, had their family trou- 
bles. As the sun gets low its rays are reflected 
back against the majestic wall of the canyon' 
in masses of color that no artist can repro-!> 
duce. 

In the morning the horses are brought and! 
we take the trail to Balcony House in Cliff' 
Canyon. This beautiful example of ancient'' 
work is the last of the repaired dwellings and' 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 237 

is certainly a marvel of ancient masonry. En- 
sconced high in the wall a thousand feet or 
more above the wash in the canyon is the pic- 
turesque fortress. A spring of pure water is 
in the innermost confines of the cave, and when 
provisioned for a siege Balcony House must 
have been impregnable Its defenders could 
view the canyon for a thousand yards in three 
directions — north, south and east One of the 
most remarkable features of this dwelling, as 
well as the others we have visited, is that the 
stone used in its construction must have been 
brought from a distance, as no signs of a 
quarry exist near by and the slab-like stones 
that appear in the several structures are not 
found nearer than a mile From the well-chosen 
location of Balcony House, as regards the con- 
venience of water, wood and the nearby fields, 
we may presume that in this place one of the 
strong clans ruled and resided. Here the walls 
of the canyon are abrupt and seemingly but a 
single trail breaks the rim rock for miles, and 
that trail leads to the foot of Balcony House, 
which is entered by a ladder and a series of 
steps. As the sun rises above the Mesa the 
canyon walls glow with their many colors, and 



238 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

I 

the cliff-dwellings are seen here, there andl 
everywhere, all within a frame of green andj 
gold. j 

As we contemplate these silent ruins it f| 
hard to believe that at one time they resounded 1 
with the hum of industry, the laughter ofj 
children, the droning of priests or the strident; 
cry of sentinels calling the warriors to battle.^ 
The dwellers in these abandoned communities; 
have left no written records, but the shape or; 
the structure and the relics that have been) 
dug from the debris of centuries give someJ! 
idea of how the people lived and moved andjj 
had their being. The main houses were built) 
on the front of a ledge close to its edge, ana] 
back of this was an open space that answered 
the purpose of a court, a street, a playgrouna 
or a place for industrial pursuits, such as weav-J 
ing and pottery making. At intervals along!- 
the front were towers and bastions and in the 
interior were kivas or secret chambers used foij 
religious ceremonies. In every village stood 
storehouses to provide a supply of provisions, 
in times of war or failure of crops. 

On the level mesas above the cliffs this an-, 

cient people cultivated the soil and raised thq 

I 
i 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 239 

corn that was their chief article of food. Stalks, 
husks, cobs and jars of shelled corn have been 
discovered in most of the ruins. Corn stalks 
have been found embedded in the adobe of the 
floors, and the cobs are frequently found in 
places where they were used to chink the walls. 
Reddish-brown beans, the stems, rind and seed 
of a gourd-like vegetable, and walnuts have 
also been unearthed. The turkey was evidently 
an important item in the life of the cliff- 
dweller. There is abundant evidence that this 
bird was domesticated and kept in the com- 
partments of the dwellings, and the broken 
bones in the refuse heaps show that many a 
juvenile cliff-dweller polished a drum-stick 
with the same relish as his prototype of the 
Twentieth Century. In addition to being used 
for food the feathers and quills of the turkey 
were used for ornaments and some of the bones 
were worked up into useful household utensils 
such as awls and needles. 

The men probably tilled the fields, hunted 
game and constructed the buildings that now 
line the canyon walls. The women, and per- 
haps the children helped in the building opera- 
tions, for the imprints of small hands are fre- 



2 4 o THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

quently found in the plaster. The womenf 
were probably occupied with the domestic 1 
work, such as grinding corn, weaving the 
yucca fiber into garments and making the pot-| 
tery which still exists in such abundance.' 
Either these people were indefatigable potters^ 
or they dwelt here for many years, because' 
pottery fragments are found over the mesa, 
in the valleys and in and around the cliff-dwell- 
ings. 

Metals were unknown to these primitive 
people. They used arrows of wood and reed 
tipped with flint and bone points. Flint and 
bone were also used for spear points and fori 
knives used in hunting and domestic work.} 
Stone axes were used for cutting wood and in 
many of the dwellings are found blocks ofj 
harder stone with deep grooves resulting fromj 
the laborious sharpening of the tools. As in] 
the case of other primitive people the corn| 
meal was ground by pounding and rubbing be-j 
tween polished stones. 

Notwithstanding the rude character of their 1 
implements these people were not ignorant of? 
some of the comforts of life. Fire-places are! 
found in most of the dwellings and matting 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 241 

made of rushes covered the cold stone floors. 
Stiff grasses tied in the middle and cut off 
squarely at both ends were used for scrubbing 
or perhaps for hair brushes. For clothing 
they had tanned hides, fringed buckskin and 
yucca fiber cloth. Even socks of yucca fiber 
have been found, and the feet were further 
protected by sandals of yucca with insoles of 
corn husk or soft bark fiber. Nor were the 
cliff-dwellers lacking in personal adornments. 
Bone beads, snail shells and feathers consti- 
tuted the chief ornaments of personal attire. 

Little is known of the exact era of the cliff- 
dwellers' existence. Their cities were in ruins 
at the time of the coming of the Spaniards 
and some authorities place 1,000 years ago 
as the most recent date of occupation. What- 
ever may have been the condition of these 
people before they inhabited the rock houses 
it is evident that when enemies began to 
threaten them they took refuge in the cliffs 
and built these communal houses for pur- 
poses of defense. 

Access to the lofty fortresses is obtained 
only by following narrow trails along the face 
of the cliffs, in places reduced to merely hand 



242 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

and foot holds carved in the sheer precipice, | 
and through tunnels cut in rock barely large I 
enough to admit the entrance of the diminutive | 
cliff-dweller. From some of the structures the i 
rock formations which permitted entrance 
have caved away, leaving them isolated on I 
high ledges and balconies in the cliffs, inac- j 
cessible and unexplored. 

The Government has taken every precau 
tion to preserve these priceless remains of a I 
vanished race and to protect them from van- j 
dalism and spoliation. Unfortunately many of! 
the ruins were ransacked and stripped of their ! 
most valuable contents many years prior to ' 
the enactment of the legislation for the preser- j 
vation of American antiquities. The Interior! 
Department has been actively engaged in the i 
work of keeping these structures intact and 
of preventing further decay and disintegra- 
tion. The tottering and crumbling walls of, 
the larger ruins have been braced up and re-| 
enforced with steel and cement, the deep kivas i 
and underground chambers have been exca-: 
vated, cleaned out and restored, and drains, j 
culverts and ditches have bee*i built to carry 



MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 243 

off the storm waters and to prevent further 
erosion. 

Or. J. Walter Fewkes, of the Smithsonian 
Institution, who has been so intimately and 
usefully associated with the development of the 
park, uncovered the wonderful Sun Temple on 
top of the mesa not far from Cliff Palace, in 
191 5, and in 191 6 he unearthed and restored 
Far- View House, a splendid mesa pueblo hav- 
ing hundreds of rooms. 



X 

THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 

This government reservation is unique among 
national parks for its one great attraction is 
its medicinal springs. The city of Hot 
Springs is near the center of Arkansas, 50 
miles southwest of the Little Rock. In ad- 
dition to the hot springs of which there are 
46, there are many cold springs from which 
come palatable waters used both in the treat- 
ment of disease and as beverages. 

The Hot Springs Reservation contains 911.63 
acres, and includes Hot Springs Mountain, 
North Mountain, West Mountain, and Whit- 
tington Lake Park. The springs are all 
grouped about the base of Hot Springs Moun-; 
tain, their aggregate flow being 826,308 gal-! 
Ions per day. The hot water is supplied to! 
the various bathhouses, and the receipts from: 
this source are all expended under the direc-| 
tion of the Secretary of the Interior in im-i 
244 



THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 245 

proving the service and in developing and 
beautifying the reservation. There are more 
than 11 miles of well-built roads and foot- 
paths over the mountains. 

The Government is represented at the 
springs by a superintendent appointed by the 
Secretary of the Interior. The superintend- 
ent has supervision over all general matters 
connected with the Government's interests, is 
disbursing officer, enforces the rules and regu- 
lations of the department, has charge of sani- 
tation, hydrotherapy, the bathing of patients, 
the Government free bathhouse for the in- 
digent, the instruction and supervision of bath 
attendants, and the determination as to their 
fitness for employment. 

How to Reach Hot Springs 

From New York and points south, Hot 
Springs may be reached via the Southern 
Railway and connections; from St. Louis and 
the middle west by the Missouri Pacific ; and 
from the southwest by the Southern Pacific 
Railway. 



246 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The City of Hot Springs 

The city of Hot Springs has extended be- 
yond the narrow valley in which the springs 
are located and spread out over the open plain 
to the south and east. It is supplied with all 
the public utility services of the larger cities. 
There are churches of every denomination, 
public and private schools, hospitals and sana- 
toria, theaters and other places of amusement, 
a race track, and the State fair grounds. The 
resident population is about 16,000. 

There are many hotels, the largest affording | 
accommodations for 1,000 guests, and several! 
hundred boarding houses ranging in price 
from $5 a week up. Cottages and apartments I 
for light housekeeping, furnished or unfur-i 
nished, can be rented from $10 a month up. ! 
The cost of living is about the same as ini 
average cities of like size. 

List of Hotels and Rates. 

CAPACITY, 500 OR MORE. 

Arlington.— Capacity, 500. $4.00 to $8.00 per day;|, 
$21.00 and upward per week. Bath house in hotel. 1 
Open all the year. Joe W. Corrington, Manager.; 

Eastman. — Capacity, 1,000. $4.00 to $8.00 per dayij 
$21.0© and upward per week. Bath house in hotel. 

I 



THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 247 

Open from January to May. John R. Bogan, Man- 
ager. - 
Majestic. — Capacity, 500. New, modern, fireproof. 
Bath house in hotel. Open all the year. Rates, 
$2.50 per day and up. Special weekly rates. H. A. 
Jones, Manager. 

capacity, 100 to 200. 

Milwaukee. — Capacity, 100. $12.50 to $17.50 per 
week. Steam heat. Modern. Hot and cold wa- 
ter in every room. J. P. Hickey, Proprietor. 

Moody. — Capacity, 150. $12.50 to $21.00 per week. 
Bath house under same roof. N. M. Moody, Pro- 
prietor. 

Pullman. — Capacity, 150. American plan. $12.50 to 
$21.00 per week. European plan, $5.00 to $15.00 
per week. Open all year. Joseph Longinotti, Pro- 
prietor. 

St. Charles. — Capacity, 150. $1.50 to $2.50 per day; 
$10.50 to $17.50 per week. Apartments for light 
housekeeping. Adjacent to bath house. H. Dough- 
erty, Owner and Manager. 

The Eddy. — Capacity, 100. European plan, $5.00 to 
$15.00 per week. Eddy Hotel Co., Proprietors. 

The Marquette. — European. Capacity, 125. Eleva- 
tor and all modern conveniences. Moderate rates. 
T. J. Pettit, formerly of Waverly, Manager. 

Waukesha. — Capacity, 150. $2.00 to $3.00 per day; 
$12.50 to $21.00 per week. Bath house in hotel. 
Al. A. Reynolds, Proprietor. 

Townsend Hotel. — Capacity, 150. American and Eu- 
ropean ; $1.00 per day and up. New brick and stone 
building. Modern steam heat. Hot and cold wa- 
ter in every room. Chapel Street. Heart of city. 
J. A. Townsend. Proprietor. 



248 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

CAPACITY, 50 TO IOO. 

Jones Apartments. — $1.00 per day and up. J. T. 

Jones, Proprietor. 
Howard. — Capacity, 75. $2.00 and upward per week. 

Furnished rooms only. 
Hotel Richmond. — Capacity, 100. $7.00 to $12.00 per 

week. Mrs. F. B. Elliston, Proprietor. 
McCrary. — Capacity, 75. $7.00 to $15.00 per week. 
New Hot Springs. — European plan. Bath house in 

hotel. G. M. Smith, Manager. 
Putnam. — Capacity, 75. Rates, $7.00 to $10.00 per 

week. Modern. Opposite Auditorium Theater. 

Mrs. R. Fishback, Proprietor. J. G. Tuttle, Man- 
ager. 
Rockafellow. — Capacity, 75. $2.50 to $3.50 per day ; 

$15.00 to $21.00 per week. Bath house in hotel. 

E. S. Putnam, Proprietor. 
Sumpter. — Capacity, 75. $5.00 to $8.00 per week. 
The Goddard. — Capacity, 90. Furnished rooms.; 

Mrs. J. W. Hutsell, Proprietor. 
Knickerbocker Hotel. — Capacity, 75. Steam heat,! 

hot and cold water in every room. New brickj 

strictly American. $8.00 to $10.00 per week. Mrs. 

E, W. Lauher, Proprietor. 

CAPACITY LESS THAN 50 

Cozy Inn. — Capacity, 30. $10.00 and up per week. 
Chicago Stag. — Furnished rooms, steam heat, verj 

modern. 
Kemper Apartments. — Rooms, steam heat, etc. Mrs 

M. M. Otto, Proprietor. 
Delmar Hotel. — Steam heat and all modern conveni; 

ences. J. H. Pointer, Proprietor. 
Mrs. L. Gray. — Select private board. Rates reason! 

able. 



THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 249 

Home Hotel.— $6.00 to $8.00. Mrs. W. H. McCoI- 

lough, Proprietor. 
The Higinbotham. — $6.00 to $8.00 per week. Mrs. 

J. L. Higinbotham, Proprietor. 

BOARDING HOUSES, FURNISHED ROOMS, ETC. 

Besides the foregoing, there are 500 boarding 
houses and rooming houses, furnished cottages and 
apartments, housekeeping rooms and furnished rooms 
at various rates to suit all purses, and good res- 
taurants where meals can be had from 15 cents and 
25 cents up. 

FOR SPECIAL TREATMENT. 

St. Joseph's Infirmary. — Capacity, 250. Bath house 
in building. Modern brick and stone structure. 
Rates, $15.00 to $35-oo per week. Baths, $10.00 per 
course. 

The climate is good throughout the year. 
In the earlier days Hot Springs was exclu- 
sively a summer resort, the hotels being closed 
from October to March. In later years, how- 
ever, owing to the number who come during 
the winter months to escape the cold of the 
north, the resort is patronized throughout the 
year. There Is no malaria. 

The elevation of the city is 600 feet, and 
that of the surrounding hills about 1,200 feet 
above the level of the sea. 



250 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The Pay Bathhouses 

There are 23 pay bathhouses operated under 
rules and regulations approved by the Sec- 
retary of the Interior. Eleven are on the res- 
ervation at the base of Hot Springs Mountain, 
constituting what is known as " Bathhouse 
Row," and 12 are located at various points 
in the city. Eleven are in connection with J 
hotels, hospitals, or sanatoria. The water is 
the same in all, but the prices charged for the 
baths vary in the different houses in accord- 
ance with the equipments and accommodations I 
furnished. The rates are fixed in each in- j 
stance by the Secretary of the Interior. The 
charges for the services of the attendance are 
the same in all, and include all the necessities j 
of the bath except furnishing towels and bath 
robes, laundering bath robes, rubbing mer- 1 
cury, and handling helpless invalids, 

Any dissatisfaction relative to the adminis- 
tration of the baths or the treatment of pa- 
tients should be brought to the attention of 
the superintendent, who will investigate the 
complaint and adjust any differences. 



THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 251 



Scale of Rates for Baths at Different Bathhouses Re- 
ceiving Water from the Hot Springs Reservation. 



Single 
Bathhouse. baths. 

Arlington $0.55 

40 

55 
20 

55 
35 
40 

35 

45 
55 
45 
40 
50 
55 
45 
35 
40 
40 



Alhambra 

Buckstaff 

Crystal (colored) 

Eastman 

Great Northern . . . 

Hale 

Horse Shoe 

Hot Springs 

Imperial 

Lamar , 

Magnesia 

Majestic 

Maurice 

Moody 

Ozark 

Ozark Sanatorium 
Palace 



Park: 

Upstairs _ 55 

Downstairs 50 

Rector 45 

Rockafellow 40 

St.- Joseph's Infirmary 45 



Course 

of 2 1 

baths. 

$10.00 

7.0O 

IO.OO 
4.OO 

IO.OO 
6.00 
7.00 
7.00 
8.0O 

IO.OO 
8.00 
7.0O 
9.OO 

IO.OO 
8.0O 
6.0O 
7.0O 
7.00 



IO.OO 
9.0O 
8.0O 
7.00 
8.00 



In addition to the foregoing, bathhouse at- 
tendants, under the rules and regulations for 
the government of the bathhouses receiving 



252 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

water from the Hot Springs Reservation, are 
allowed to charge for their services not to ex- 
ceed 15 cents for a single bath, $1 per week, 
or $3 per course of 21 baths, to be collected 
for the attendant by the bathhouse manager 
and properly accounted for by him to the at- 
tendant. 

Bath tickets are redeemable for the same 
proportionate price for which they were sold, 
when presented by the original purchaser, pro- 
vided that when less than seven baths have 
been taken on any ticket presented for re- 
demption the bathhouse may charge the rate 
for single baths for the number of baths taken 
on said ticket. 

Physicians 

The only physicians who are allowed to pre- 
scribe the waters of the hot springs are those 
licensed practitioners of the State of Arkansas 
who have been examined by a Federal board 
of medical examiners appointed by the Sec- 
retary of the Interior. Visitors are warned 
that physicians who have not passed the Fed- 
eral . board and been registered in the super- 
intendent's office, are not permitted to make 



THE HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 253 

use of the baths in the treatment of their pa- 
tients. This rule is for the protection of vis- 
itors who, if they desire the baths, should be- 
fore employing a physician, procure from the 
superintendent of the reservation a list of the 
qualified practitioners. 

While the baths may be taken without the 
advice of a physician by procuring a permit 
at any of the bathhhouses receiving water 
from the hot springs oH the reservation, this 
practice is not recommended. Patients who 
assume to determine the nature of their ail- 
ments and to prescribe for themselves often 
fail to obtain the desired relief. The waters 
are not beneficial in all diseases and in some 
are harmful. It is a useless expenditure of 
time and money to take the baths for a dis- 
ease that will not be benefited by them. 

Physicians' fees are from $25 a month up, 
according to the treatment required. 

Visitors are advised for their own protec- 
tion that soliciting for hotels, boarding houses, 
or doctors on the trains running into Hot 
Springs is in violation of law, and are warned 
against heeding the advice of irresponsible and 
unknown persons. 



254 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

In the interest of the public it has been 
found necessary to prohibit the bathing of any 
one stopping at a hotel or boarding house in 
which the solicitation of patronage for doc- 
tors is allowed. Such solicitation usually 
takes the form of advising the patient that the 
doctor to whom he has been recommended by 
a friend at home is out of town, but that Dr. 
X is as good a man and will treat him for 
less money. The drummer commonly poses 
as a greatly benefited and grateful patient of 
the doctor who employs him. Doctors who 
make use of agents to induce patients to take 
treatment from them usually divide their fees 
with the solicitors or drummers. 

The moral responsibility of good citizen- 
ship demands that visitors should make known 
to the superintendent of the reservation any 
instance of soliciting for doctors, thus effec- 
tively aiding the department in eliminating an 
obnoxious practice, and insuring to themselves 
the full benefits of proper treatment at this re- 
sort. 



XI 

THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 

The Grand Canyon of Arizona is not a part 
of a national park, but of a government reser- 
vation. Its preeminence among the scenic 
wonders of America, however, makes it un- 
necessary to apologize for its inclusion in this 
book. Its length is 217 miles, its width 13 
miles, and its greatest depth considerably more 
than a mile. Despite its great size, statistics 
can give only a very dry impression of its 
grandeur. It is accessible at any time of year, 
for the climate is moderately cool in summer 
and generally mild in winter. 

How to Reach the Grand Canyon 

The Grand Canyon is approached from both 
east and west by the Santa Fe. Tourists leave 
the transcontinental train at Williams, Ariz., 
for a 64-mile ride in another train to the 
Canyon's rim. Stopovers are allowed at Wil- 
255 



256 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Hams on all classes of tickets for a visit to 
the Canyon. 

Accommodations and Transportation— Costs 

Hotel and camp accommodations at the 
Grand Canyon are excellent, and suited to all 
pocketbooks. 

El Tovar, the Santa Fe hotel at Grand 
Canyon, is the most luxurious. It is conducted 
on the American plan, with the following 
rates : Rooms without bath, $5.00 a day : with 
bath, $7.00 a day upward. 

Bright Angel Camp is operated as an ad- 
junct to El Tovar, on the European plan., 
Rooms in the cottage or tent are $1 to $1.50 
a day, per person ; meals extra at the cafe. 

There is also a hotel at Grand View, near 
the Grand View Trail, 14 miles east of El 
Tovar ; and in summer limited accommoda- 
tions are provided at Bass Camp, 25 miles west 
of El Tovar. 

Regular Trip Drives 

Mohave Point. — Four and a half miles , 
west ; leave 9.30 a. m. and 2 p. m. ; rate $2.00. 
Hopi Point. — There are three " regular 

i 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 257 

trip " drives, El Tovar to Hopi Point, three 
miles west, and back. The first starts at 7 
a.m.; rate, $1.50. The second leaves at 2 
p. m ; rate, $1.00. The third, for the sunset 
view, leaves at an hour timed to reach the 
point before sunset; rate, $1.50 

Hermit Rim Road. — This drive is 8 miles 
west of El Tovar (16 miles round trip) — once 
in the forenoon and once in the afternoon. The 
first starts at 9.30 a. m., and reaches El Tovar 
returning at 1 p. m. ; rate $3.00. The second 
starts at 2.30 p. m., and reaches El Tovar re- 
turning at about 5.30 p. m.; rate $3.00, which 
includes sunset view. Stops are made en 
route, for both drives, at Hopi, Mohave and 
Pima Points. 

Yavapai and Grandeur Points. — This drive 
is three miles east of El Tovar; start 10.15 
A. m.; rate, $1.00. 

Grand View. — Leaving El Tovar at 10.00 
a. m. and 2.00 p. m. daily, the automobile makes 
the round trip of 28 miles in about 3% hours. 
The ride is through the tallest pines of the 
Tusayan Forest. Time is allowed for visiting 
the near-by outlooks. From here may be 
seen that section of the Canyon from Bright 



258 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Angel Creek, west, to Marble Canyon, on the 
north, including the great bend of the Colo- 
rado. On the eastern wall are Moran, Zuni, 
Papago, Pinal, Navaho and Comanche (Des- 
ert View) points; and the mouth of the Little 
Colorado River. Still further beyond is the 
Painted Desert, and Navaho Mountain — the 
latter plainly seen, though one hundred and 
twenty miles away. The " rim trail " to 
Moran Point is very interesting. 

Grand View Trail enters the Canyon near 
Grand View Point. Near by is Grand View 
Hotel, under management of Mr. Berry, who 
also cares for visitors at his ranch. This hotel | 
is a large frame edifice, with log cabin annex, j 
About fifty guests can be accommodated here. J 

Dripping Springs (Boucher Trail). — This! 
trip is made on horseback all the way, or car-j 
riage to rim and saddle horses down trail; ten) 
miles west, start at 8.30 a. m. ; rate, $4.00 each 
for three or more persons ; for less than three 
persons, $5.00 extra for guide. Private par- 
ties of three or more persons, $5.00 extra for 
guide. Boucher Trail goes down the west 
side of Hermit Basin, opposite the new Hermit 
Trail. 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 259 
Private Conveyance Rates 

Private conveyances may be hired for the 
following trips, on terms named : 

Hermit Rim Road, forenoon, one to three 
persons, $12.00; over three persons, $4.00 
each additional. 

Mohave Point, one to three persons, $8.00; 
more than three persons, $3.00 each addi- 
tional. 

Hopi Point or Yavapai Point; one to three 
persons, $5.00; over three persons, $1.50 each 
additional. 

Hopi and Yavapai points (both) from one 
to three persons, $10.00; over three persons, 
$2.50 each additional. 

Grand View; one to three persons, $14.00; 
over three persons, $4.00 each additional. 

Down Bright Angel Trail 

The trail here is generally open the year 
round. In midwinter it is liable to be closed 
for a day or two at the top by snow, but such 
blockades are not frequent. The trail reaches 
from the hotel seven miles to Colorado River, 
with a branch terminating at the top of the 
granite wall immediately overlooking the 



260 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

river. At this latter point the stream is 1,272 
feet below, while the hotel on the rim is 3,158 
feet above. The trip is commonly made on 
horseback, accompanied by a guide. 

Those wishing to reach the river leave the 
main trail at Indian Garden and follow the 
downward course of Indian Garden and Pipe 
creeks. Another feature of this section of the 
trail is the " corkscrew," a spiral pathway up 
an almost perpendicular wall. 

Leave El Tovar at 8.30 a. m. for the river 
trip; return to rim 5.30 p. m.; rate $5.00 each J 
for three or more persons; less than three j 
persons, $5.00 extra for guide. Leave Eli 
Tovar 10.30 a. m. for trip to plateau, five| 
miles; rate $4.00 each for three or more per- 
sons ; less than three persons, $5.00 extra fori 
guide. To plateau and river same day; ratej 
$6.00 for each person and $5.00 extra for 
guide for parties of one or more ; start at 8.00 

A. M. 

It is necessary that visitors who walk down! 
Bright Angel Trail and desire that guide and 
mules be sent to meet them, be charged full! 
price and special guide fee of $5.00. This id 
unavoidable, as the mules and guides are not 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 261 

available for any other trip, and in addition 
a toll fee of $1.00 must be paid by the man- 
agement for each animal, whether the entire 
trail trip is made or not. 

Horseback Trips 

There are many trips possible here for those 
fond of horseback riding, on bridle paths along 
the rim and through the pines of Tusayan 
Forest. Saddle horses are furnished at $4.00 
a day, or $2.50 a half day. English, Mc- 
Lellan, Whitman or Western stock saddles fur- 
nished as requested. Side saddles not pro- 
vided. The rate for special guides is $5.00 a 
day or $2.50 a half day. Horseback trips over 
any of the trails into the Canyon are per- 
mitted only when accompanied by guide. 
This is necessary to avoid risk in meeting trail 
parties and pack trains. 

Camping Trips 

Camping trips with pack and saddle ani- 
mals, or with wagon and saddle animals, are 
organized, completely equipped, and placed in 
charge of experienced guides. 



262 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

For climatic reasons it is well to arrange so 
that camping trips during the season from 
October to April are mainly confined to the 
inner Canyon. For the remainder of the year 
they may be made to include both the Canyon 
itself and the rim country. 

Some of the many camping trips are : Her- 
mit Trail Loop, Hermit Trail Overnight, 
Boucher Trail Loop, Cataract Canyon, Grand) 
View Trail Loop, Hance-Moran-Zuni points, 
Desert View, Little Colorado River, Painted 
Desert and Hopiland. The rates vary fromi 
$10.00 to $15.00 a day for one person; $6.00! 
to $8.00 a day, each additional person. 

Such rates specially include services of guide! 
and camp equipment; provisions are extra. | 
Figures quoted are approximate only, varying j 
with the different outings. 

Hermit Trail Loop is a favorite three-days 
trip down one trail and up another ; 50 miles : 
start 9.00 a. m. ; rate, $14.00 a day, one person ; 
$8.00 a day extra for each additional person ; 
provisions extra ; includes guide. 

On account of weather conditions camping! 
trips from October to April should be planned 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 263 

chiefly for points in the Canyon ; from April to 
October they may be planned both in the 
Canyon and on the rim. 

Hermit Creek Overnight Trip 

A limited number now can be provided for 
on Hermit Trail trip, staying overnight at 
Hermit Creek Camp. 

Start from El Tovar or Bright Angel Camp 
at 1. 00 p. m., driving to head of trail and re- 
turning next afternoon. The round trip 
charge is : Fifteen dollars for each person. 
Private guide, $5.00 a day extra. Rates 
quoted include regular guide, overnight accom- 
modations, also supper, breakfast and lunch 
at camp. 

Bass' Camp 

At the western end of the granite gorge is 
Bass' Trail, down to the Colorado River and 
up to the other side to Point Sublime and 
Powell's Plateau, the river being crossed by 
ferry. The panorama eastward from Hava- 
supai Point takes in fifty miles of the Canyon, 
while westward is the table-like formation 



264 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

which characterizes the lower reaches of the 
river. 

At Bass' Camp, near the head of this trail, 
is a frame cabin and several tents; meals are 
served by advance arrangements with Mr. 
Bass, the proprietor. Bass' Camp is reached 
by team from El Tovar, a distance of about 
twenty-four miles. 

Cataract Canyon and Havasupai Village 

A visit should be made to the Havasupai In- 
dian village in Cataract Canyon. This is an 
unique trip of about fifty miles, first by wagon, 
thirty-five miles, across a timbered plateau, i 
then on horseback down precipitous Topo- j 
cobya Trail, along the rocky floors of Tobo- 
cobya and Cataract canyons, deep in the earth, j 
to a place of gushing springs, green fields, and | 
enchanting water-falls. Here live the Hava- i 
supai Indians, one of the most interesting 
tribes in Arizona. The round trip from El I 
Tovar is made in three days, at an expense of ! 
$15.00 a day for one person, $20.00 a day for ! 
two persons, and $25.00 a day for three per- i 
sons. Each additional member of party, $5.00 \ 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 265 

a day. These rates include services of guide 
for parties of four or less, and expenses of 
guide and horse feed, but do not include board 
and lodging at Supai Village for members of 
party. 

What to See 

When you reach the Grand Canyon, says 
Agnes C. Laut, 1 you have come to the utter- 
most wonder of the Southwestern Wonder 
World. There is nothing else like it in Amer- 
ica. There is nothing else remotely resem- 
bling it in the known world; and no one has 
yet been heard of who has come to the Grand 
Canyon and gone away disappointed. If the 
Grand Canyon were in Egypt or the Alps it is 
safe to wager it would be visited by every 
one of the 300,000 Americans who yearly 
throng continental resorts. As it is, only 30,- 
000 people a year visit the Canyon ; and a large 
proportion of them are foreigners. 

You can " do " Grand Canyon cheaply, or 
you can do it extravagantly. You can go to 
it by driving across the Painted Desert 200 
miles ; or motoring in from Flagstaff — a half 

l " Through Our Unknown Southwest," by Agnes C. 
Laut. McBride, Nast & Co. New York. 1913. 



266 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

day trip — or by train from Williams, return 
ticket something more than $5. Or you can 
take your own pack horses and ride in your- 
self. Or you can employ one of the well- 
known local trail makers and guides, like John 
Bass, and go off up the Canyon on a camping 
trip of weeks or months. 

Once you reach the rim of the Canyon you 
can camp under your own tent roof and get 
your own meals. Or you may go to the big 
hotel. Or you may get tent quarters at the 
camp. 

First of all, understand what the Grand 
Canyon is, and what it isn't. We ordinarily 
think of a canyon as a narrow cleft or trench 
in the rocks, seldom more than a few hun- 
dred feet deep and wide, and very seldom more 
than a few miles long. But the Grand Canyon 
is 217 miles long, from thirteen to twenty 
wide, and a straight drop a mile deep, or 
seven miles as the trail zig-zags down. You 
think of a canyon as a great rocky trench be- 
tween mountains. The Grand Canyon is a 
colossal trench with side canyons going off lat- 
erally its full length, dozens of them to each, 
mile, like ribs along a backbone. Ordinarily, 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 267 

to climb a 7,000-foot mountain, you have to go 
up. At the Grand Canyon you come to the 
brink of the sage brush plain and jump off — 
to climb these peaks — peak after peak, you 
lose count of them in the mist of primrose fire 
and lilac light and purpling shadows — to 
climb these peaks you go down, down a sheer 
7,000 feet a good deal steeper than the ordi- 
nary stair and in places quite perpendicular. 
In fact, if the Metropolitan Tower and the 
Singer Building and the Flatiron and Wash- 
ington's Shaft in Washington, D. C, were 
piled one on top of another in a pinnacled 
pyramid they all would barely reach up one- 
seventh of the height of these massive peaks 
swimming in countless numbers in the prim- 
rose fire of the Canyon. So much for dimen- 
sions. Now as to time — if you have only one 
day, you can go in by train in the morning and 
out by night; and between times go to Sun- 
rise Point or Sunset Point or — if you are 
a robust walker — down Bright Angel Trail 
to the bank of Colorado River, seven miles. 
If you have two days at your disposal you 
can drive out to Grand View — fourteen 
miles — and overlook the panorama of the 



268 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Canyon twenty miles in all directions. If you 
have more days left at your disposal, there are 
good trips on eerie wild trails to Dripping 
Springs and to Gertrude Point and to Catar- 
act Canyon and by aerial tram across the Colo- 
rado River to the Kaibab Plateau on the other 
side. In fact, if you stayed at Grand Canyon 
a year and were not afraid of trail-less trips, 
you could find a new view, a new wonder 
place each day. Remember, that the Canyon 
itself is 217 miles long, and it has lateral 
canyons uncounted. 

When you reach El Tovar you are told two 
of the first things to do are take the drives 
— three miles each way — to Sunrise and to 
Sunset Points. You may do this, or you may 
walk them both. By carriage the way leads 
through the pine woods back from the rim 
for three miles to each point. By walking 
you can keep on an excellent trail close to 
the rim and do each in twenty minutes ; for 
the foot trails are barely a mile long. 

You can walk down Bright Angel Trail to 
the river at the bottom of the Canyon ; but un- 
less your legs have a pair of very good benders 
under the knees you'll not be able to walk up 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 269 

that trail the same day, for the way down is 
steep as a stair and the distance is seven 
miles. In that case, better spend the night at 
the camp known as the Indian Gardens half- 
way down in a beautiful water dell, or else 
have the regular daily party bring down the 
mules for you to the river. Or you can join 
the regular tourist party both going down and 
coming up. Mainly because we wanted to see 
the sunrise, but also because a big party on 
a narrow trail is always unsafe and a gabbling 
crowd on a beautiful trail is always agony, 
two of us rose early — 4 a.m. — and walked 
down the trail during sunrise, leaving orders 
for a special guide to fetch mules down for us 
to the river. Space forbids details of the 
tramp, except to say it was worth the effort, 
twice over worth the effort, spite of knees that 
sent up pangs and protests for a week. 

It had rained heavily all night and the path 
was very slippery, but if rain brings out the 
colors of the Petrified Forests you can imagine 
what it does to sunrise in a sea of blood-red 
mountain peaks, lilac mist gold-shot with 
primrose fires! Much of the trail is at an 
angle of 45 degrees, but it is wide and well 



270 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

shored up at the outer edge. The foliage 
lining the trail was dripping wet, and the sun- 
light struck back from each leaf in spangles 
of gold. An incense as of morning worship 
filled the air with the odor of cedars and cloves 
and wild nutmeg pinks and yucca bloom. 
There are many more birds below the Canyon 
rim than above it, and the dawn was filled 
with snatches of song from blue birds and 
yellow finches and water ousels, whose notes 
were like the tinkle of water. What looked 
like a tiny red hillock from the rim above is 
now seen to be a mighty mountain, four, five,| 
seven thousand feet from river to peak, with, 
walls smooth as if planed by the Artificer of all j 
Eternity. In any other place, the gorges be-l 
tween these peaks would be dignified by the; 
names of canyons. Here they are mere wings | 
to the main stage setting of the Grand Canyon.j 
We reached the Indian Gardens Camp in time 1 
for breakfast, and rested an hour before goingi 
on down to the river. The trail followed al 
gentle descent over sand hills and rocky 1 
plateaus at first, then suddenly it began to; 
drop in the section known as the Devil's Cork-| 
screw. The heat became sizzling as you de-fj 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 271 

scended, but the grandeur grew more impos- 
ing from the stupendous height and sides of 
the brilliantly colored gorges and masses of 
purpling shadows above. Then the Devil's 
Corkscrew fell into a sandy dell, where a tiny 
water-fall trickled with the sound of many 
waters is a great silence. A cloudburst would 
fill this gorge in about a jiffy; but a cloud- 
burst is the last thing on earth you need ex- 
pect in this land of scant showers and no 
water. Suddenly, you turn a rock angle and 
the yellow, muddy, turbulent flood of the Colo- 
rado swirls past you, tempestuous, noisy, sul- 
len and dark, filling the narrow canyon with the 
war of rock against water. What seemed to 
be mere foothills far above now appear colossal 
peaks sheer up and down, penning the angry 
river between black walls. It was no longer 
hot. We could hear a thunder shower rever- 
berating back in some of the valleys of the 
Canyon, and the rain falling between us and 
the red rocks was as a curtain to the scene 
shifting of those old earth and mountain and 
water gods hiding in the wings of the vast 
amphitheater. 



2 7 2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

And if you want a wilder, eerier trail than 
down Bright Angel go from Dripping Springs 
out to Gertrude Point. I know a great many 
wild mountain trails in the Rockies north and 
south, but I have never known one that will 
give more thrills from its sheer beauty and 
daring. You go out round the ledges of preci- 
pice after precipice, where nothing holds you 
back from a sheer fall 7,000 feet straight as 
a stone could fall, nothing but the sure-footed- 
ness of your horse, out and out, round and 
round peak after peak, till you are on the tip 
top and outer edge of one of the highest moun- 
tains in the Canyon. This is the trail of old J 
Louis Bucher, one of the beauty-loving souls j 
who first found his way into the center of) 
the Canyon and built his own trail to one of its I 
grandest haunts. Louis used to live under | 
the arch formed by the Dripping Springs, but 1 
Louis has long since left, and the trail is fall- 
ing away and is now one for a horse that! 
can walk on air and a head that doesn't feel' 
dizzy when looking down a straight 7,000 feet 
into darkness. If you like that kind of a trail, 
take the trip, for it is the best and wildes 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 273 

view of Grand Canyon; but take two days to 
it and sleep at Louis' deserted camp under the 
Dripping Springs. 



America's Pantheon 1 

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is the 
Pantheon, the Valhalla of the Gods. 

The silent majesty of the wonderful abyss, 
invisible until you stand upon the brink, takes 
possession of your soul, investing it with the 
solemnity which will pervade it when at the 
end your feet enter the Valley of the Shadow. 

You shudder at the distant shriek of the 
anachronistic locomotive, while the laughter of 
your late companions sounds like the crackling 
of thorns under a pot. 

Beside you men and women clasp hands 
as their fascinated gaze sinks deeper and 
deeper into the fathomless gulf. Before you 
is spread out an epitome of creation, a micro- 
cosm of the universe, of infinite antiquity 
when history began. 

There are Buddhist temples and tombs of 
the Ptolemies antedating tradition, Moham- 

1 By A. W. Dimock, Travel, Nov., 191 0. 



274 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

medan mosques that were ancient when the 
barefoot Mohammed first tended his camels, 
forums of Pompeii and theaters of Hercula- 
neum that existed before Vesuvius was cre- 
ated. 

In this mighty chasm, which compares with 
Niagara as yards with inches, were born 
castles and cathedrals, columns and colos- 
seums, Druidical altars and temples of Baby- 
lon. 

Here Phidias found the Parthenon, and 
Cheops' architect borrowed blue-prints for the 
pyramid of Ghizeh. 

Here are preserved the records of all re- 
ligions, the symbols of every faith, and even 
altars to the unknown God, while within its 
boundaries are collected the monuments and 
works which made Egypt great and Greece 
beautiful. 

The Colorist of the Canyon dipped His brush 
in the spectrum and with broad strokes fore-i 
ran the work of artists for all time. His col-l 
ors were borrowed by Giotto in Padua, Goz-i 
zoli in Florence, and Perugino in the Vatican.; 

Standing near the edge of the chasm I sawj 
a topographer of the Government with his 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 275 

chart spread upon a table before him, trans-- 
lating the wonders of Hades into terms of his 
theodolite. He talked of arc and azimuth, 
curves and contour, tablets of altitude and 
monuments of record. He pointed out tem- 
ples of Vishnu and the destroying Siva, and 
explained that the erosive power of water, 
greater in its effect than any ascribed to the 
creative Brahma, had carved these and other 
wonders of the great gulf. 

He spoke with the familiarity of long ac- 
quaintance of the Canyon, the uttermost re- 
cesses of which he was about to invade, and 
complied with my request that he be to me 
what Sibyl was to Eneas, and Virgil to 
Dante. 

We first descended to the top of a moun- 
tain where sparks flew from the tips of our 
tingling fingers, each hair stood erect and fire 
flashed before our eyes, while a sharp report 
followed contact with the profane tablet which 
my guide had inserted in the solid rock. 

Assured that we were on Mt. Olympus, I 
pointed out fragments of thunderbolts that 
surrounded us, but my iconoclastic companion 
talked of peculiar conditions of insulation, of 



276 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

atmospheric disturbances and a not unusual 
electric storm and suggested that with proper 
conductors, currents of dynamic value might 
be obtained. I charged him with sacrilege 
and reminded him of the fate of Prometheus. 
He replied that he represented the Govern- 
ment of the United States whose livery he 
wore and that its acts must not be questioned 
by other powers, human or superhuman. 

We visited a temple which my Virgil told 
me had been duplicated in every essential of 
terrace and statue and dedicated to Moham- 
med, in Boro Budar, Central Java, and from j 
its entrance he pointed out the model of the j 
town erected by the Jains to commemorate the 
defeat of that same Mohammed, 

The shadows of the Crescent and the Cross 
alike fell about us as we gazed upon mosques 
and tabernacles, upon pagan temples and j 
churches of the Christ, upon the tomb of Ab- 
salom and the Chaldean Birs Nimroud of i 
Nebuchadnezzar, upon the temple of Diana I 
of the Ephesians and its Babylonian prede- i 
cessor of Bel Nippur with its forty centuries ; 
of added antiquity. 

He showed me cromlechs of Britain and 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 277 

Peru, pagodas of Tanjore and Maulmain, tem- 
ples of Pekin and Syracuse, tombs of Nan- 
king and Thebes, as well as the model from 
which Pythias constructed the prototype of all 
sepulchres, the tomb of Mausolus at Halicar- 
nassus. 

We zigzagged down Jacob's ladders on the 
face of precipices and at every turn gazed 
into abysses that seemed bottomless. We 
passed the habitations of cliff-dwellers, whose 
long history ended before ours began, and 
monoliths which might have served as the very 
gates of hell. 

As we continued our inverted climb, the 
walls above contracted and grew vertical, and 
the sky receded. A great rock came thunder- 
ing down beside us, but my Sibyl smiled when 
I spoke of Sysyphus, and called my attention 
to the hanging gardens of Babylon on a cliff 
opposite, to the fossils in a nearby rock and 
the geological system to which they belonged. 

I followed my guide in silence through 
twisting labyrinths, narrow gorges, long ra- 
vines that grew deep as we traveled them, be- 
tween walls crowned with battlements and tur- 
rets above, and enclosing caverns and cata- 



278 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

combs beneath. As the daylight faded, the 
slowly unfolding panorama of the rocks be- 
came indistinct and dreamlike. Strange mur- 
murs filled my ears and ghostly visions flitted 
past. I asked my companion what realm of 
spirits we had invaded, and he replied that we 
stood within the Archean System, earth's ear- 
liest known formation. 

As we continued to descend, the shadows 
deepened, and there opened beneath us a black 
gulf from which vibrations volleyed as from 
the hammer of Thor. Entering, we found 
ourselves upon the bank of a rushing river, 
beside the dark waters of which we encamped 
to await the coming of the ferryman who j 
would bear us to the other side. 

We built a fire, for cheer, from drifted j 
wood, and its red flames covered the rocks! 
with fluttering shadows of ghosts and goblins, ! 
foul- faced harpies and birds of ill omen, while 
the wavering column of heated air, distorting i 
all things, changed drifting tree trunks into 
pallid corpses, and transformed the river's 
steady roar into chaotic murmurs, ghostly 1 
wmisperings and fearsome cries. In the eddy-! 
ing smoke, I saw phantoms of the past, bases 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 279 

of the myths of mythology and inspirations 
of heroic poems. Nothing was real but the 
unreal. I looked with the eyes of Eneas upon 
the ghostly procession of Griefs, Diseases, Pov- 
erty, Hunger, and Death ; upon Discord, and 
the avenging Furies whose heads were 
wreathed with serpents; upon the hundred- 
armed Briareus, the fifty-headed Hydra, and 
the fire-breathing Chimeras ; upon Ixion bound 
to the revolving wheel, the torture of Tan- 
talus, and Prometheus chained to the rock 
with his vitals eternally torn by vultures in 
payment for his service to humanity; until I 
felt that Elysium was impossible while Tar- 
tarus existed. I heard the cries of those col- 
orless ones, of whom Dante wrote, who living 
without infamy and without praise, were cast 
out by Heaven and rejected by Hell, but I 
saved my sympathy for the fallen Lucifer in 
the magnificence of his defiance. I viewed 
with Dante the spirits of Homer and Horace, 
Socrates and Democritus, Cleopatra and 
Helen. 

Drifting clouds reflected other and later- 
day faces and forms. Sterner lines added 
majesty to the Father of his Country; Mon- 



280 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

roe gazed with puzzled expression upon a large 
map which he held, as if he were looking for 
a lost doctrine ; the face of John Law was 
recognizable, although he was garbed as an 
infant, with bib and tucker, while the Erie 
gang floated past as cherubs resting on a big 
white cloud, suggesting that accounts of the 
ship-building and other trusts had reached 
Tartarus. Jefferson looked as if he were not 
on his way to a reception at the White House, 
while Ben Franklin's philosophic smile sug- 
gested that he had an invitation to dine at 
Newport and was amused that society found 
it so much easier to imitate his morals than to 
observe his maxims. Lincoln's tired expres- 
sion may have been due to his attempts to 
keep up with current events at the Capitol, 
while the grief of Columbus as he shook his j 
head over a badly torn map in his hand was I 
natural in view of what must have seemed to 
him the mistake of his life. 

A boat with a solitary oarsman touched the j 
bank near me and my companion stepping j 
aboard told me the ferryman was his assistant 
who would ferry us across. But recognizing 
Charon and The Styx, I pleaded unprepared- 1 

i 
i 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 281 

ness for the voyage and standing upon the 
bank as my friend departed gazed sadly upon 
the melting of another soul into the infinite. 

When the interminable night had worn 
away, the sun's first rays fell with unfamiliar 
light upon the pinnacles above me. It was 
long before I could arouse myself from that 
strange borderland between vision and verity. 
I walked upon the bank of the river made fa- 
mous by Powell and upon which his own fame 
rests, and paid mental tribute to the spirit that 
placed life in the balance so freely in the cause 
of science. I remembered, too, the engineer 
Stanton who in the line of plain professional 
duty counted all peril in the day's work and 
death merely an incident thereof and who sup- 
plemented the tragedy of his trip through the 
Canyon in May, 1869, by his triumph in De- 
cember of the same year. 

As I gathered pebbles from the river's brink 
and flowers from crevices in the rocks, I hon- 
ored the geologists who rifled the earth of its 
secrets, reading the pages of Nature's book 
of the Grand Canyon and presenting to the 
world the history of its creation. . . . The 
bridal path from the brink to the bottom of 



282 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the Grand Canyon continues to be called a 
trail, although worn to safety and perma- 
nence by the feet of generations of horses and 
mules. It is exciting to the " tenderfoot," but 
not perilous, and if any tourist has been lost, 
his fall has not been recorded nor his remains 
located. 

Sometimes a horse hesitates over a sheer 
drop of two or three feet, and then comes 
down with a suddenness that is unpleasant to 
the rider who lacks experience. In climbing 
the zigzags there is a moment at each turn, 
when the head and neck of the animal hangs 
over a precipice, while his body slowly turns 
upon his feet as pivots and the rider usually 
clings to the cantle of his saddle. Even a 
bad horse behaves himself on the trail and the 
only accident likely to happen is his going to 
sleep. Tourists usually insist upon having 
safe horses and so get those that are nearest 
dead. Occasionally the horse of a guide, if 
properly encouraged, will caper about a bit 
and evince a desire to jump into space. Noth- 
ing cures him so quickly as giving him the 
rein and the opportunity he seems to seek, 
which develops his caution amazingly. 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 283 

The half-way house of the principal trail 
is on a small plateau containing a stream of 
water, grass, and a thicket of young trees, but 
although surrounded by extraordinary scenery 
it is not often overcrowded. The journey to 
the top of the Canyon looked slight, but an 
hour of continuous climbing made small im- 
pression upon it. Distances are deceptive in 
Arizona and the surveyor who reported the 
width of the Canyon at thirteen miles is called 
Ananias by the traveling public which usually 
estimates the distance at half a mile. As we 
reached the top the spirits of the climbers rose 
and there was much shouting to others on 
lower levels while members of the party scur- 
ried around for a photographer to take their 
pictures with the party and Canyon as a back- 
ground. Tastes differ and those pictures may 
have value in the future as heirlooms. 
Things had changed since I left the world 
for my descent into Avernus. 

Special trains had arrived and many people 
were camping in private cars in the Cocomino 
forest, on the border of the Canyon. There 
were railroad men of the kind who build roads 



29 4 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

under the Rockies and over the Great Salt 
Lake, bankers bound for the Pacific Coast 
and a great conference, pending the conclu- 
sion of which the financial earth was expected 
to cease to revolve, women of the opera and 
the horse show, and a great political editor 
with a parcel of Congressmen, organizing a 
presidential boom in the southwest, taking 
statehood to the territorial politicians and irri- 
gation to the people. The atmosphere was of 
Washington and Wall Street, Newport and 
the Waldorf-Astoria. 

The remorseless river was gnawing into the 
earth before our race existed; it will be cut- 
ting yet deeper channels after it has been for- 
gotten. Its work is destruction — in the 
Canyon. Even in arid Arizona the desert re- 
sponds instantly to the rare floods with mil- 
lions of tender blades of grass. On fire-swept! 
lands of hemlock and pine, forests of beech, 
birch and maple spring up. With energy, in- 
tense and unflagging, Nature repairs ravages' 
of earthquake, hurricane and tidal waves.: 
Flowers spring alike through the snow of the 
avalanche and from the scarred side of the 

I 



THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA 285 

volcano while yet the lava is red. Inspira- 
tion should be sought in the open where life 
abounds and not in the haunts of death. 

The Canyon may well typify the tomb — 
the broad, glad earth the resurrection. 

Nothing upon earth is better worth one visit 
than the Grand Canyon of Arizona — nothing 
is less worth two. 1 

1 And yet Congress has not seen fit to make it a national 
park, while the dignity of that condition has been conferred 
on Sullys Hill National Park, an unimportant track of land 
of hardly more than a square mile. 



XII 
THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 

There are now in Canada about a dozen 
national parks. Of this number seven may 
be classed as the scenic parks and include the 1 
Rocky Mountains Park, popularly known asj 
the Banff Park, on the eastern slope of the! 
Rockies; Yoho Park, adjoining the former in) 
British Columbia on the western slope of the! 
Rockies with Field as a center; Glacier Park} 
at the summit of the Selkirks — all three) 
traversed by the main line of the Canadianj 
Pacific Railway; Jasper Park and Mount! 
Robson Park adjoining one another in Alberta'; 
and British Columbia respectively in the disn 
trict recently opened up by the construction; 
of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway through 
the Yellowhead Pass ; Waterton Lake Park ir 
Southern Alberta, just across the Canadiar 
border and a favorite resort for sportsmen! 
286 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 287 

and the St. Lawrence Islands Park, which 
comprises twelve reservations among the 
Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence. 

There are also two government animal pre- 
serves in Alberta, Buffalo Park near Wain- 
wright and Elk Island Park near Lamont. 

The recently established Strathcona Park in 
British Columbia is, at this writing, in process 
of organization and not yet ready for general 
use. 

There is, finally, the extensive and very ac- 
cessible vacation territory of Eastern Ontario 
known as the Algonquin Park. 

In addition to the above there are several 
historic parks scattered throughout the East- 
ern Provinces, in particular. The scope of 
this book will not permit of an extensive treat- 
ment of all of these national parks. Attention 
will be centered on the few which afford the 
greatest interest to the general tourist. 

Rocky Mountains Park 

This park is the oldest and one of the larg- 
est of the Dominion national parks. It 
originally included the whole valley between 
Bourgeau and Sulphur Mountains, but was 



288 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



reduced in 191 1 to its present size of 1,800 
square miles. 

The park is on the main line of the Cana- 
dian Pacific, Banff, its center, being almost 
fifty miles from Calgary. Banff and Laggan 
are the chief « headquarters for the tourist. 
They differ widely in general character. At 
Banff, there is the restful, quiet scenery of a 
lovely mountain valley. Although there are 
no snow-peaks, the Rundle, Cascade and 
Edith mountains rise 900 feet above the wind- 
ing Bow River. 

Laggan is the station for the Lake Louise j 
district, reached by tramway or a three-mile [ 
drive through the forest. The scenery here is | 
truly alpine and the wildness and loneliness 
contrast sharply with the peaceful serenity of j 
the Bow valley. 



Accommodations at Banff with Rates 
C. P. R. Banff Springs Hotel. American Plan. 

Rates from $4.00 per day up. Manager, G. H. 

Rawlins. 
Sanitarium Hotel. European Plan. Rates from 

$1.00 per day up. Manager, P. N. Edmonds. 
Mount Royal Hotel. American Plan. Rates from 

$3.00 per day up. Manager, G. M. Colladay. 
Alberta Hotel. American Plan. Rates $2.00 and 

$2.50 per day. Proprietor, C. E. Stenton. 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 289 

King Edward Hotel. American Plan. Rates $2.00 

per day. Proprietor, H. G. Gordon. 
Alpine Hotel (Private). European Plan. Rates 

from $1.00 per day up. Manager, C. E. Ross. 
Homestead Hotel (Temperance). American Plan. 

Rates from $1.50 per day up. Proprietor, J. 

Locke. 

AT UPPER SPRINGS 

Grand View Villa. American Plan. Rates from 
$2.00 per day up. Proprietor, Dr. Brett; Pro- 
prietress, Miss McColl. 

Hot Springs Hotel. American Plan. Rates from 
$2.00 per day up. Proprietor, B. Ashton. 

Attractions for the Tourist at Banff 

The Hot Sulphur Springs on the slopes 
of Sulphur Mountain are highly curative. 
Dressing-rooms, etc., are provided — charge, 
25 cents. 

Golf, tennis, mountain climbing, fishing and 
shooting are all possible at Banff. 

There are also a buffalo park and a museum 
with zoological gardens. 

There are numerous rides and drives to be 
taken from Banff. Some of these are as fol- 
lows : 



2Qo THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Carriage and Pony Tariff 
Brewster Transfer Co., Limited 

Lake Minnewanka and return via Banff Village, Buf- j 

falo Park and Bankhead Coal Mines ; distance, I 

18 miles. 
Carriage, team and driver; time, 4 hrs. ; 2 

or 3 persons $ 5.00 | 

Carriage, team and driver ; full day ; 2 or 3 

persons 7.00 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 4 hrs. ; 4 or 

5 persons 6.00 

Carriage, team and driver; full day; 4 or 5 

persons 8.00 

Tunnel Mountain, Cave and Basin, and Sun Dance 
Canyon, or Loop, Cave, Basin and Sun Dance 
Canyon : 
For either of these drives the price is : 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 4 hrs. ; 2 

or 3 persons $ 5.00 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 4 hrs. ; 4 or 
5 persons 6.00 

To Tunnel Mountain, Cave and Basin, or to Buffalo 
Park, or to the Loop, Cave and Basin : 

Carriage, team and driver; time, 3 hrs.; 2 or 
3 persons $ 4.00 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 3 hrs. ; 4 or 
5 persons 5.00; 

To Brewster Creek : 

New Trail, 18 miles. Time required, 3 days, which; 
includes one day in camp. Rates, including guide, 
cook, pack horses, saddle horses, saddles, cooking 
utensils : 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 291 

For one person $15.00 per day 

For two persons 12.50 per day each 

For three or more 10.00 per day each 

To Cave and Basin only : 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 1 hour ; 3 
or more persons, each 50 cents 

To Upper Hot Springs only: 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 2 hrs. ; 2 

or 3 persons $ 3.00 

Carriage, team and driver ; time, 2 hrs. ; 4 or 

5 persons, each 1.00 

Saddle Ride to Observatory on Sulphur Mountain : 
Distance, 12 miles; pony for round trip, 6 
hours $ 3.00 

Tunnel Mountain Pony Ride: 
General pony rate, viz. : $1.00 for first hour. Each 

subsequent hour, 50 cents; $3.00 per day. 

Additions — New Road to Mount Edith Pass : 

2 or 3 persons $ 5.00 

4 or 5 persons 6.00 

Single trap, per hour 1.00 

General Banff Tariff 

Single traps, phaeton without driver, first hour $ 1.00 

Each subsequent hour 50 

Two-seated carriage, team and driver, per hour 2.00 
For half day (4^2 hrs.), $5.00; per day 

(9 hrs.) 8.00 

Three-seated carriage, team and driver, per 

hour 2.50 

For half day (4 J / 2 hrs.), $6.00; per day 
(9 hrs.) 10.00 



2Q2 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Special trap to station, 2 persons 1.50 ; 3 per- 
sons $ 2.50 

Saddle ponies, first hour : 1.00 

Each subsequent hour, 50 cents; per day 3.00 
Bus, between station and C. P. R. Hotel, each 

way 25 

Trunks and heavy baggage, each way . . ". 25 

Small hand bags free. 

Guides for fishing, hunting or pleasure trips 
into any part of the Rocky Mountains Park 
may be obtained at Banff. For rates and par- 
ticulars address : 

Brewster Transport Co., Ltd., Banff. 
James Simpson, Banff. 
S. J. Unwin, Banff. 

Rates for all hunting and fishing trips de- 
pend entirely upon the size of the party, dura- 
tion of trip, and season of the year in which 
trip is made, but as a guide the following is the 
standard rate : 

$15.00 per day for one person. 
25.00 per day for party of two. 
10.00 per day each for party of three or more. 

This includes one guide, one cook, all the 
necessary saddle horses, pack horses, tents, 
cooking utensils and provisions, and, in fact, 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 293 

everything necessary for your comfort and the 
success of the trip with the exception of your 
personal effects and blankets. 

Season, Climate, etc. 

Banff enjoys an ideal climate both summer 
and winter ; the heat is always tempered by the 
mountain air, and the nights are always cool. 
In winter there is much sunshine, little snow" 
and very little cold wind, temperature seldom 
remains lower than 20 degrees below zero for 
more than two or three days. 

Information for Motorists 

Motorists may now enter Banff by a good 
road from Calgary, 85 miles, passing the 
Stony Indian Reservation at Morley, and pro- 
ceed west for about 5 miles, road being un- 
der construction to the Windermere - Valley, 
via Vermilion and Simpson Passes. 

Use of automobiles is prohibited, except on 
straight road to C. P. R. Hotel and Motor 
Garage at Boat House, and each one must be 
registered at Police Barracks or Government 
Office. 



294 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Laggan and the Lake Louise District 

Excellent accommodations may be had at 
the Chateau Hotel maintained by the Cana- 
dian Pacific Railway. Rates from $4.50 per 
day, American plan. 

Points of Interest at Lake Louise 

Three days' climbing and zvalking tour from 
Lake Louise. — First day : Paradise Valley, 
by either of routes enumerated, thence to 
the Valley of the Ten Peaks, by way of the 
Watsatch or Sentinel Passes. The night is 
spent in the Moraine Lake Cabin. Second 
day: Up the Valley of the Ten Peaks, past 
Wenkchemna Lake to the summit of the 
Wenkchemna Pass (altitude, 8,521 feet) ; 
thence into Prospectors' Valley, halting for a 
brief period by the Eagle's Eyrie, a peculiar 
rock formation. The journey is then con- 
tinued upward over the Opabin Glacier and 
Opabin Pass (altitude, 8,450 feet). Lake 
O'Hara is next reached and the night spent 
in the hut near there. Next day Lake Mc- 
Arthur may be visited and the return journey 
made to the Chalet, via the direct trail to Lake 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 295 

Louise, or by way of the Cataract Brook trail 
to the railway at Hector. 

Motor tramway, between Lake Louise Station and 
Chateau Lake Louise, each way, per person, 50 cents. 

Hand baggage, not exceeding two pieces for each 
person, free. 

Additional pieces of hand baggage, each, 25 cents. 

Trunks — Lake Louise Station to Lake Louise 
Chalet and return, each, 75 cents. 

Tariff of Brewster Transfer Company 

Carriage drive on Moraine Lake Road — 2 or 3 per- 
sons, $5.00; 4 or 5 persons, $6.00; Tally-Ho — reg- 
ular trips — per seat, $2.50. Time of two hours for 
lunch. 

SADDLE TRIPS 

Pony to Lakes Mirror and Agnes $ 1.50 

Pony to Victoria Glacier and return 2.00 

Pony to Saddleback and return 2.50 

Pony to Mirror Lake and Mt. St. Piran 3.00 

Pony to Great Divide, 1 day 3.00 

Pony to Upper Lakes and Glacier, via Grand 

View Trail, round trip 2.50 

Pony to Saddleback and return, via Paradise 

Valley, 1 day 4.00 

Pony to Moraine Lake and return 3.00 

Pony to O'Hara Lake and return from Hector ; 

time, 1 day 3.00 

Pony to Ptarmigan Lake and return ; time, 1 day. 3.00 

Additional time for ponies charged at rate of 50 

cents per hour. Guides furnished at $4.00 per day, 



2Q6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

wkh pony. Where four or more ponies are con- 
tracted for by one person, on short trips, a guide will 
be furnished free; pony to be paid for at $2.00 per 
day. 

Note — One day's limit is nine hours, and a half-day's limit j 
is 4^ hours. 

Yoho Park 

Reached by direct line on Canadian Pacific : 

Railway to Field. Situated on the western 

slope of the main chain of the Rockies and 

adjoining Rocky Mountains Park. Area 560 1 

square miles. 

! 
Accommodations, Rates, Etc. 

The Mount Stephen House, maintained by the C P. 1 
R., from $4.00 per day. American plan. 

Emerald Lake, seven miles from Field, from $3.50 j 
per day. 

Camps in Yoho Valley, $4.00 per day. 

Field is an excellent center for hunting expeditions. 
See above for guides, rates, etc. 

I 

Pony Trips and Drives from Field to Emerald 
Lake 

Field to Emerald Lake and Return — 

Single carriage ($1.00 per hour) .....$ 3.00 j 

Carriage, team and driver 400 ; 

50 cents extra, if via Natural Bridge. 
Time limit, 4^2 hours. 
Regular stage rate, between Field and Em- 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 297 

erald Lake is $1.00 per passenger each 
way, or $1.25 via Natural Bridge. 

General Drives from Field — 
For all day — carriage, team and driver; 2 or 3 

persons $ 7.00 

For all day — carriage, team and driver ; 4 or 5 

persons 8.00 

Seating capacity of the carriage over 5 

persons 8.00 

Whole day to be 9 hours, and not more 
than 22 miles. 

Carriage, team and driver — 

1, 2 or 3 persons ; per hour $ 2.00 

1, 2, or 3 persons ; 9 hours, and not more than 

22 miles, per hour 1.50 

In tally-ho or coaches, regular trip, Emerald 

Lake and Natural Bridge, each seat.... 2.50 

Drive along the Kicking Horse River Road to Mon- 
arch Cabins and other points of interest — 
Carriage, team and driver; 1, 2, or 3 persons $3.00 
Four or more persons, each, to seating capa- 
city of carriage 1.00 

Yoho Drive to Takakkaw Falls — 

Time, all day (9 hours). A popular drive. 

Carriage, team and driver; 2 or 3 persons. . . .$ 8.00 

Carriage, team and driver; 4 or 5 persons. .. 9.00 

Tally-ho will run regular trips at $3.00 per seat. 

Baggage to Field and Emerald Lake Chalet — 

Two hand valises or suitcase, free. 

Additional hand valise or suitcase $ .25 

Trunks, each 50 



298 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Saddle horses — 

To Fossil Beds and return $ 3.00 

First hour, 75 cents ; subsequent hours, each .5c 
Guide or packer, per day 2.50 

Glacier National Park 

Reached by direct line of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway. Station is Glacier. Situ- 
ated in the heart of the Selkirks. Area 468 
square miles. 

Accommodations, Rates, Etc. 

The Glacier House, maintained by the C. P. R., is 
open all the year. Rates, $4.00 to $6.00 per day, 
with special rates for long visits. 

Mountain Climbing in Glacier Park 

Asulkan Valley and Glacier to Asulkan 
Pass. The Asulkan Pass (alt. 7,710 ft.) may 
be reached by an easy one-day trip across the 
glacier. The view of the Dawson Range 
from the Pass is beautiful. 

A day on the great glacier. The formation 
of crevasses, seracs, moulins, etc., may best be 
studied by spending a day with a Swiss guide 
on the great glacier. Perley Rock may also 
be visited and the great crags of Mt. Sir 
Donald viewed from this vantage point. 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 299 

Asulkan Pass and return, via Swanzy 
Glacier and Lily Pass (alt. 8,228 ft.), a long, 
but splendid trip traversing many glaciers. 
The route may be reversed by making the 
trip via the summit of Mt. Abbot and rear 
slope of the Rampart. 

Uto and Eagle Passes. A circuit of Eagle 
Peak, making the trip via the Pass between 
Uto Peak and Mt. Sir Donald, and the return 
by the Pass between Eagle Peak and Mt. 
Avalanche. Imposing views of the north- 
west ridge of Mt. Sir Donald and of the whole 
Beaver Valley. 

Mts. Abbot and Afton (alts. 8,081 and 
8,425 ft.). A delightful one-day climb, with 
splendid views of the Mt. Bonney Region. 

Mt. Avalanche (alt. 9,381 ft.). The climb 
starts from the station platform, the trail to 
Avalanche Crest being followed. From that 
point easy rocks lead to the summit. 

Castor and Pollux (alts. 9,108 and 9,176 
ft). The twin peaks may be climbed via 
Asulkan Valley and Glacier. They present 
no difficulty to a well-equipped party. 

Mt. Grizzly (alt. 9,061 ft.). The train may 
be taken to Rogers Pass and from there a 



3 oo THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 



short walk via Bear Creek Valley leads to | 
the actual climb. From the summit the view I 
northward reveals the monarch of the Sel- j 
kirks, Mt. Sir Sanford (alt. 11,634 ft.), as 
yet unclimbed. 

Swiss guides are stationed at the hotel and are j 
available for the service of tourists for the fee of 
$5.00 per day. The guides provide rope, ice axes, 
etc., and visitors intending to climb should be equipped 
with stout boots, well nailed. 

I 

GLACIER PONY TARIFF 

Great Glacier and return ; time, 2 hours $ 1.00 j 

Asulkan Glacier and return ; time, 4 hours .... 2.00 j 

Marion Lake and return; time, 4 hours 2.00 

Overlook on Mt. Abbot ; time, 1 day. 3.00 1 

Summer House ; time, 3 hours . . . 1.50 i 

Caves of Nakimu, via the Loops and Cougar 
Valley returning over the Baloo Pass, per 

person . 5.00 

Divided skirts or rain coats, rented at, per day .50 

Ponies, per day 3.00 j 

Jasper Park 

Situated in Northern Alberta on the line of \ 
the Grand Trunk Pacific. Although only a 
small part of it has been explored, the scenic 
attractions already discovered leave no room | 

for doubt that it will be eventually one of 

l 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 301 

the most attractive of the Dominion parks. 
Its area was recently increased from 1000 
square miles to 4400 square miles, making 
it the largest of the parks of Canada. 

There is every diversity of natural feature 
to gratify the mountaineer or the explorer or 
the general tourist. It is an expanse of in- 
spiring mountain scenery with a succession 
of majestic peaks which tower above a con- 
tinental water shed wherein are the head- 
waters of five great rivers, the Saskatchewan, 
the Athabaska, the Thompson, the Columbia, 
and the Fraser. The chief charm of this new 
National Park lies in its primeval and pris- 
tine beauty. This is the fishing and hunting 
country of the Canadian Rockies par ex- 
cellence and, for those who prefer moun- 
taineering, the peaks of this locality exceed 
the Alps in their attractions. 

About twenty miles from the entrance to 
Yellowhead Pass are valuable hot springs 
which possess great medicinal value. These 
springs are located at an altitude of 4,209 
feet. In their vicinity the Grand Trunk 
Pacific will shortly erect a large hotel which 
will be known as the Chalet Miette. 



302 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

At present the accommodations in the Park 
are confined to tents and a few local hotels in 
Jasper. 

Maligne Lake, which was discovered in 
1907, has the reputation of being the most 
beautiful lake in the Rockies. Trails 
throughout the Park are fast being opened 
up and the whole territory is being organized 
for the accommodation of the visitor. 

For guide and rates in Jasper Park terri- 
tory, fishing, hunting, camping, etc., address 
Donald Philips, Jasper, Alberta. 

Mount Robson Park 

To the Jasper Park reserve has recently 
been added by the government of British 
Columbia a large area in the Yellowhead Pass 
district, which will be known as Mount Rob- 
son Park. The central feature of this park 
is the famous Mt. Robson, the highest peak in 
the Canadian Rockies, and it is the intention 
of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway Company 
to build a large hotel in this park in the near 
future. 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 303 
Alberta Game Laws 

OPEN SEASON FOR BIG GAME 

Bag limit 

Mountain sheep . . .Sept. 1st to Oct 15th — 2 males only 
Mountain goat.. Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th — 2 males only 
Moose and deer . .Nov. 1st to Dec. 15th— 1 male only 
Bear Open all year — None 

Hunting License: Residents $2.50. Nonresidents 
$25.00. These may be procured at Banff. 

British Columbia Game Laws 

OPEN SEASON FOR BIG GAME 

Bag limit 
Mountain sheep. .Sept. 1st to Nov. 15th — 2 males only 
Mountain goat . .Sept. 1st to Dec. 15th— 3 males only 

Moose ...Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st — 2 males only 

Caribou Sept. 1st to Dec. 31st — 3 males only 

Deer Sept. 1st to Dec. 15th — 5 males only 

Bear Closed July 15th to Aug. 30th — None 

Hunting License : Non-residents, other than mili- 
tary men of the British Army and Canadian Militia 
in actual service in the Province, are required to se- 
cure a hunting license. For each the Fee is $100.00. 

A Special License for Hunting Bear in the Spring 
will be issued for the sum of $25.00. 

These may be procured at Field or Golden, B.C. 

Buffalo Park at Wainwright 

Buffalo Park is situated near Wainwright, 
Alberta, on the line of the Grand Trunk 
Pacific Railway. 



304 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

It has an area of 160 square miles and be- 
sides containing the largest herd of buffalo in 
the world, numbering 1649 head, possesses 
many features of scenic interest for the 
tourist. 

Waterton Lake Park 

This park which has recently been increased 
to 423 square miles in area is just across the 
border from Glacier National Park in the 
United States, from which park it may readily 
be visited by horseback, or it may be reached 
from Cardston on the southern branch of the 
Canadian Pacific Railway. It is a noted cen- 
ter for big game hunting and fishing. 

Algonquin Park 

This extensive provincial vacation territory 
is the most accessible and also the most highly 
developed of all the Dominion parks. It is 
situated in eastern Ontario and has an area of 
some 3900 square miles. 

The Grand Trunk Railway crosses the 
southwestern corner of the Park, which is 
easily reached from either Ottawa or Toronto. 
Rock Lake, Algonquin Park, Joe Lake, Brule 



THE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 305 

Lake and Rainy Lake are the main stations 
within the Park. 

The territory abounds in lake and wood- 
land, offering splendid opportunities for 
fishing, canoeing and camping. No hunting 
is allowed within the confines of the park. 

Accommodations 

Highland Inn — at Algonquin Park Station — first- 
class hotel — rates $2.50 to $3.50 per day. $16.00 to 
$18.00 per week. Open all year. 

Hotel Algonquin — Joe Lake Station — first-class 
hotel — from $2.50 per day. Open June 25th to Sep- 
tember 25th. 

Nominigan Camp on Smoke Lake. Rates $2.50 per 
day. Reached by road from Algonquin Park Station 
or by canoe. 

Camp Minnesing on Island Lake, reached by road 
from Algonquin Park Station. Particulars upon 
application. 

Camping Facilities in Algonquin Park 

All essentials for camping and complete 
equipment may be rented at either of the two 
large hotels. Canoes also rented and guides 
provided for fishing and camping trips. Rates 
upon application. 



306 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Revelstoke Park 

Revelstoke Park at the Summit of Mount 
Revelstoke in British Columbia was created 
by the government in 19 14. It has an area of 
about 95 square miles. It is at present in an 
undeveloped condition. 

Owing to the great danger from fire both in 
Revelstoke Park and in Strathcona Park, both 
of which are not patrolled, tourists are not ad- 
vised to visit these places until they are better 
organized. 



XIII 
NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 

There are thirty-four National Monuments 
in the United States and Alaska, aggregating 
in area nearly two and a half million acres. 
National monuments differ from National 
parks principally in area, the object in so des- 
ignating them being for the purpose of con- 
servation. Unfortunately Congress makes little 
provision for their maintenance and develop- 
ment, and by reason of the fact that many are 
difficult of access, they are for the most part 
comparatively little visited by tourists. 

They are of three kinds : ( I ) Historic land- 
marks or places of historic interest such as the 
Big Hole Battlefield, or the spot on Point Loma 
which marks the place where Cabrillo first 
sighted the coast of Southern California; (2) 
historic monuments, comprising prehistoric 

307 



308 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

structures such as Montezuma Castle, Gila Clifl 
Dwellings, or historic buildings, of which the 
Hydah Village at Old Kasaan is an illustra- 
tion; and (3) natural monuments comprising 
a variety of objects of scientific interest such 
as caves, natural bridges, Muir Woods and the 
Grand Canyon of Arizona. The monuments 
are as follows : 



Administered by the Department of the Interior. 



Name. 


State. 


.L'a.ie, 

Established. 


Area. 


Devils Tower 


Wyoming . . 


Sept. 


24. 


1906 


1,152.00 


El Morro 


New Mexico. 


Dec. 


8, 


1 906 


160.00 


Montezuma Castle. 


Arizona 




do 




160.00 


Petrified Forest."... 


do 


(Dec. 

Mar. 


8, 
3i, 


1906 ) 
1911 J 
1907 


25,625.00 


Chaco Canyon 


New Mexico. 


1 20, 629. OO 


Muir Woods 2 


California. . . 


Jan. 


9' 


1908 


295.OO 


Pinnacles 


do 


Jan. 


16, 


1908 


2,091.21 






fApr. 


16, 


1908 


I20.00 


Natural Bridges... 


Utah 


< Sept. 


25. 


1909 


1 2, 74O.OO 






LFeb. 


1 1, 


1916 


1 2, 74O.OO 


Lewis and Clark 
Cavern 2 


Montana . . . 


(May 
( May 


1 tj 

16, 


1908 
1911 


160.OO 
160.OO 


Tumacacori 


Arizona ... 


, ^ pt - 


15. 


1908 


IO.OO 


Navajo 


do 


(Mar. 

JMar. 


20, 
14. 


1909 
1912 


1 6oo.oo 
360.00 




Mukuntnweap .... 


Utah 


July 


3i, 


1909 


1 i 5,840.00 


Shoshone Cavern.. 


Wyoming 


Sept 


21, 


1909 


210.00 


Gran Quivira 


New Mexico 


. Nov. 


1, 


1909 


1 i6o.oo 


Sitka 


Alaska .... 
Utah 


Mar. 
May 


23, 
30, 


1910 
1910 


1 57-oo 


Rainbow Bridge... 


160.00 


Colorado 


Colorado .. 


May 


24, 


1911 


13,883.06 


Papago Saguaro... 


Arizona 


Jan. 


3i, 


1914 


2,050.43 


Dinosaur 


Utah 


Oct. 


4. 


I9i5 


80.00 


Sieur de Monts 2 . .. 


Maine .... 


July 


8, 


1916 


5^00.00 


Capulin Mountain. 


New Mexico 


. Aug. 


9, 


1916 


680.37 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 309 

Administered by the Department of Agriculture. 

Date, 
Name. State. Established. Area. 

Gila Cliff Dwellings New Mexico. Nov. 16, 1907 160.00 

Tonto Arizona .... Dec. 19,1907 1 640.oo 

Grand Canyon do Jan. 11, 1908 ^oe, 400. 00 

Jewel Cave So. Dakota.. Feb. 7,1908 1 i,28o.oo 

Wheeler Colorado ... Dec. 7,1908 300.00 

fMar. 2, 1909 608,640.00 

Mount Olympus... Washington. .-< Apr. 17,1912 608,480.00 



Oregon Caves Oregon July 12,1909 480.00 

Devil Postpile California .. July 6,1911 800.00 

Walnut Canyon... Arizona Nov. 30,1915 960.00 

Bandelier New Mexico. Feb. 11,1916 22,075.00 

Old Kasaan Alaska Oct. 25,1916 38.30 

3 Estimated area. 



Administered by the War Department. 

Date, 

Name. State. Established. Area. 

Big Hole Battle 

Field 1 Montana ... June 23, 1910 5 

Cabrillo California .. Oct. 14,1913 x 

1 Set aside by Executive order. 

The Mukuntuweap National Monument 

The Mukuntuweap National Monument, in 
southwestern Utah, conserves a canyon that for 
fantastic outline and brilliant and varied color- 
ing probably equals any spot on this continent. 
Recent visitors have called it "the desert Yose- 
mite ;" others, "the mimic Grand Canyon." It 
inevitably suggests both. "You can't see it 
without shouting," reports one recent explorer. 

The Mormons of a former generation chose 



3io THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

this valley for a refuge in the event of being 
driven from Zion, as they called Salt Lake 
City, and named it Little Zion. It is locally 
called Zion Canyon to-day. The north fork of 
the muddy Virgin River flows through it, and 
in the spring streams cascade from the lofty 
walls. 

The canyon is a mighty cleft, as if the moun- 
tain had been violently divided to obtain a 
segment. The walls are inconceivably carved 
into domes, half domes, colonnades, and tem- 
ples. One gigantic cliff suggests a battleship, 
and is locally called "Steamboat." 

The faces of some of the walls contain thou- 
sands of square feet of plane surface, upon 
which the elements have sketched various fig- 
ures. At one point may be seen the picture 
of a woman, a horse, and a pig, forming a 
distinct group. At another an eagle perches, 
true to this noble bird's instinct, high upon the 
cliffs. At other points crypts have been formed 
in the walls by the shelling off of the stone 
surface. Nature seems to have fashioned here 
a fine art gallery of stupendous proportions. 

The coloring is beyond description. Glisten- 
ing white is the basic color. Below this a strip 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 311 

of maroon-colored sandstone has weathered 
into formations resembling those of the Grand 
Canyon. There are thousands of feet of pol- 
ished white sandstone streaked with vermillion, 
like a Roman sash. 

The canyon is more than fifteen miles long 
and varies from fifty feet wide in the narrows 
to twenty-five hundred feet wide in Zion prop- 
er. The neighborhood is rich in striking phe- 
nomena. There are natural bridges of great 
size and beauty. The country was settled by 
Mormons many years ago, and possesses much 
historical interest. Old-time Mormon customs 
obtain in the prosperous villages. Mukuntu- 
weap may be reached by automobile and horse- 
back from Lund, Utah. 

Muir Woods 

Within ten miles of the city of San Fran- 
cisco, in Marin County, California, lies one of 
the noblest forests of primeval Redwood in 
America. That it stands to-day is due first 
to the fact that its outlet to the sea instead of 
to San Francisco Bay made it unprofitable to 
lumber in the days when redwoods grew like 
grain on California's hills. 



312 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

The Muir Woods National Monument con- 
tains three hundred acres. Interspersed with 
the superb Redwood, the Sequoia sempervirens, 
sister to the Giant Sequoia of the Sierra, are 
many fine specimens of Douglas fir, Madrona, 
California Bay, and Mountain Oak. The for- 
est blends into the surrounding wooded coun- 
try. It is essentially typical of the redwood 
growth, with a rich stream-watered bottom 
carpeted with ferns, violets, oxalis, and azalea. 

Many of the redwoods are magnificent speci- 
mens and some have extraordinary size. Cathe- 
dral Grove, and Bohemian Grove, where the 
famous revels of the Bohemian club were held 
before the club purchased its own permanent { 
grove, are unexcelled in luxuriant beauty. 

This splendid area of forest primeval was j 
named by its donors, Mr. and Mrs. William I 
Kent, in honor of the celebrated naturalist of i 
the Sierra, John Muir. It is so near San Fran- 
cisco that thousands are able, to enjoy its j 
cathedral aisles of noble trees. 

Sieur de Monts 

By proclamation of July 8, 1916, creating j 
the Sieur de Monts National Monument, Presi- 

1 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 313 

dent Wilson extended the national park serv- 
ice for the first time to the Atlantic coast. The 
area which enjoys this honor is one of fasci- 
nating historical association as well as majestic 
natural beauty. It embraces more than five 
thousand acres of rugged mountain, directly 
south of Bar Harbor. In fact, its northern 
boundary lies within a mile of that famous 
resort. On the east it touches the Schooner- 
head Road. On its south it approaches within 
a mile of Seal Harbor. It lies less than a 
mile northeast of Northeast Harbor. It is sur- 
rounded, in short, by a large summer popula- 
tion. 

This area includes four lakes and no less 
than ten mountains. The lakes are Jordan 
Pond, Eagle Lake, Bubble Pond, and Sargent 
Mountain Pond. The Bowl lies just outside 
the boundary line. The mountains, several of 
which are widely celebrated, are Green Moun- 
tain, Dry Mountain, Picket Mountain, White 
Cap, Newport Mountain, Pemetic Mountain, 
The Tryad, Jordan Mountain, The Bubbles, 
and Sargent Mountain. 

The lands included in the Sieur de Monts 
National Monument have never formed a part 



314 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF -AMERICA 

of the public domain, but, through the patriot- 
ism and generosity of the former owners, 
known collectively as the Hancock County 
Trustees of Public Reservations, were pre- 
sented to the United States. The trustees were 
represented in the matter by Mr. George B. 
Dorr, of Boston, who, in the creation of this 
national monument, attained the object of 
years of public-spirited endeavor. 

Montezuma Castle 

This remarkable relic of a prehistoric race 
is the principal feature of a well-preserved 
group of cliff dwellings in the northeastern 
part of Yavapai County, Arizona, known as the 
Montezuma Castle National Monument. The 
unique position and size of the ruin gives it 
the appearance of an ancient castle; hence its 
name. 

The structure is about fifty feet in height 
by sixty feet in width, built in the form of a 
crescent, with the convex part against the cliff. 
It is five stories high, the fifth story being back 
under the cliff and protected by a masonry 
wall four feet high, so that it is not visible from 
the outside. The walls of the structure are 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 315 

of masonry and adobe, plastered over on the 
inside and outside with mud. 

Devils Tower 

This extraordinary mass of igneous rock is 
one of the most conspicuous features in the 
Black Hills region of Wyoming. 

The tower is a steep-sided shaft rising six 
hundred feet above a rounded ridge of sedi- 
mentary rocks, about six hundred feet high, on 
the west bank of the Belle Fourche River. Its 
nearly flat top is elliptical in outline. Its sides 
are strongly fluted by the great columns of 
igneous rock, and are nearly perpendicular, ex- 
cept near the top, where there is some round- 
ing ; and near the bottom, where there is con- 
siderable outward flare. The tower has been 
scaled in the past by means of special ap- 
paratus, but only at considerable risk. 

The great columns of which the tower con- 
sists are mostly pentagonal in shape, but some 
are four or six sided. 

Natural Bridges 

The natural bridges for whose preservation 
this national monument in San Juan County, 



3i6 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Utah, was created are understood to be among 
the largest examples of their kind, the greatest 
of the three having a height of two hundred 
and twenty-two feet, and a thickness of sixty- 
five feet at the top of the arch. The arch is 
twenty-eight feet wide, the span two hundred 
and sixty-one feet, and the height of the span 
one hundred and fifty-seven feet. The other 
two bridges are a little smaller. All occur 
within about five miles. The whole constitutes 
a really imposing spectacle. 

In the neighborhood are found, in addition 
to a couple of fine cavern springs and other 
interesting and scientifically valuable natural 
curiosities, many prehistoric ruins of cavern 
and cliff dwellings and two cavern springs. 

The Chaco Canyon 

The Chaco Canyon National Monument pre- 
serves remarkable relics of a prehistoric people 
once inhabiting New Mexico. Here are found 
numerous communal or pueblo dwellings built 
of stone, among which is the ruin known asi 
Pueblo Bonito, containing, as it originally 
stood, twelve hundred rooms. It is the largest j 
prehistoric ruin in the Southwest. 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 317 

So difficult are they of access that little exca- 
vation has been done. 

Shoshone Cavern 

A few miles east of the celebrated Shoshone 
Dam, in Wyoming, is found the entrance to the 
picturesque cave to preserve which the Sho- 
shone Cavern National Monument was created. 

Some of the rooms are a hundred and fifty 
feet long" and forty or fifty feet high, and all 
are remarkably encrusted with limestone crys- 
tals. 

The passages through the cavern are most 
intricate, twisting, turning, doubling back, and 
descending so abruptly that ladders are often 
necessary. 

Colorado 

This area, near Grand Junction, Colorado, 
is similar to that of the Garden of the Gods 
at Colorado Springs, only much more beautiful 
and picturesque. With possibly two exceptions 
it exhibits probably as highly colored, mag- 
nificent, and impressive examples of erosion, 
particularly of lofty monoliths, as may be found 
anywhere in the West. 



3i8 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

These monofiths are located in several tribu- 
tary canyons. Some of them are of gigantic 
size ; one over four hundred feet high is almost 
circular and a hundred feet in diameter at base. 
Some have not yet been explored. 

Lewis and Clark Cavern 

The feature of this national monument is a 
limestone cavern of great scientific interest be- 
cause of its length and because of the number 
of large vaulted chambers it contains. It is of 
historic interest, also, because it overlooks for 
more than fifty miles the Montana trail of 
Lewis and Clark. 

The vaults of the cavern are magnificently 
decorated with stalactite and stalagmite forma- 
tions of great variety of size, form, and color, 
the equal of, if not rivaling, the similar forma- 
tions in the well-known Luray caves in Vir- 
ginia. The cavern has been closed on account 
of depredations of vandals. 

The Dinosaur 

The Dinosaur National Monument in North- 
eastern Utah was created to preserve remark- 
able fossil deposits of extinct reptiles of great 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 319 

size. The reservation contains eighty acres of 
Juratrias rock. 

For years prospectors and residents had been 
finding large bones in the neighborhood, and 
in 1909 Prof. Earl B. Douglass of the Carnegie 
Museum of Pittsburgh, under a permit from 
the Department of the Interior, undertook a 
scientific investigation. The results exceeded 
all expectation. Remains of many enormous 
animals which once inhabited what is now our 
Southwestern States have been unearthed in a 
state of fine preservation. These include com- 
plete and perfect skeletons of large dinosaurs. 

The chief find was the perfect skeleton of a 
brontosaurus eighty-five feet long and sixteen 
feet high which may have weighed, when liv- 
ing, twenty tons. 

The Papago Saguaro 

Within this national monument, which lies 
about nine miles east of Phoenix, Arizona, and 
less than a dozen miles from the Apache Trail, 
grow splendid examples of characteristic desert 
flora, including many striking specimens of 
giant cactus (saguaro) and many other inter- 
esting species of cacti, such as the prickly pear 



320 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

and cholla. There are also fine examples of 
the yucca. All here attain great size and per- 
fection. The saguaro is that variety of cactus 
which grows in a cylindrical form to a height 
of thirty or thirty-five feet. There are also 
prehistoric pictographs upon the rocks. 

Rainbow Bridge 

This natural bridge is located within the 
Navajo Indian Reservation, near the southern 
boundary of Utah, and spans a canyon and 
small stream which drains the northwestern 
slopes of Navajo Mountain. It is of great 
scientific interest as an example of eccentric 
stream erosion. 

Among the known extraordinary natural 
bridges of the world, this bridge is unique in 
that it is not only a symmetrical arch below 
but presents also a curved surface above, thus 
suggesting roughly a rainbow. Its height 
above the surface of the water is three hun- 
dred and nine feet and its span is two hun- 
dred and seventy-eight feet. 

The existence of this natural wonder was 
first disclosed to William B. Douglass, an ex- 
aminer of surveys of the General Land Office, 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 321 

on August 14, 1909, by a Piute Indian called 
"Mike's boy," later "Jim," who was employed 
in connection with the survey of the natural 
bridges is White Canyon, Utah. 

El Morro 

El Morro, or Inscription Rock, in western 
central New Mexico, is an enormous sandstone 
rock rising a couple of hundred feet out of the 
plain and eroded in such fantastic form as to 
give it the appearance of a great castle. A 
small spring of water at the rock made it a con- 
venient camping place for the Spanish ex- 
plorers of the sixteenth, seventeenth, and 
eighteenth centuries, and its smooth face 
well adapted it to receive the inscriptions of 
the conquerors. 

The earliest inscription is dated February 18, 
1526. Historically the most important inscrip- 
tion is that of Juan de Ofiate, a coloni|er of 
New Mexico and the founder of the city of 
Santa Fe, in 1606. It was in this year that 
Ofiate visited El Morro and carved this inscrip- 
tion on his return from a trip to the head of 
the Gulf of California. There are nineteen 
other Spanish inscriptions, among them that 



322 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

of Don Diego de Vargas, who in 1692 recon- 
quered the Pueblo Indians after their rebellion 
against Spanish authority in 1680. 

Pinnacles 

The spires, domes, caves, and subterranean 
passages of the Pinnacles National Monument 
in San Benito County, California, are awe-in- 
spiring on close inspection, and are well worth 
a visit by tourists and lovers of natural phe- 
nomena. 

The name is derived from the spirelike 
formations arising from six hundred to a thou- 
sand feet from the floor of the canyon, forming 
a landmark visible many miles in every direc- 
tion. Many of the rocks can not be scaled. 

A series of caves, opening one into the other, 
lie under each of the groups of rock. These 
vary greatly in size, one in particular, known 
as the Banquet Hall, being about a hundred 
feet square, with a ceiling thirty feet high, 

Capulin Mountain 

Capulin Mountain is a volcanic cinder cone 
of recent origin, six miles southwest of Folsom, 
N. Mex. It is the most magnificent specimen 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 323 

for a considerable group of craters. Capulin 
has an altitude of eight thousand feet, rising 
fifteen hundred feet above the surrounding 
plain. It is almost a perfect cone. 

The Petrified Forest of Arizona 

The Petrified Forest of Arizona lies in the 
area between the Little Colorado River and 
the Rio Puerco, fifteen miles east of their junc- 
tion. This area is of interest because of the 
abundance of petrified coniferous trees. It has 
exceptional scenic features, also. 

The trees lie scattered about in great pro- 
fusion ; none, however, stands erect in its origi- 
nal place of growth, as in the Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park. 

The trees probably at one time grew beside 
an inland sea ; after falling they became water- 
logged, and during decomposition the cell 
structure of the wood was entirely replaced by 
silica from sandstone in the surrounding land. 

Sitka 

This monument reservation is situated about 
a mile from the steamboat landing at Sitka, 
Alaska. Upon this ground was located formerly 



324 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the village of a warlike tribe — the Kik-Siti 
Indians — where the Russians under BaranofT 
in 1802 fought and won the "decisive 
battle of Alaska" against the Indians and ef- 
fected the lodgment that offset the then active 
attempts of Great Britain to possess this part 
of the country. The Russian title thus acquired 
to the Alexander Archipelago was later trans- 
ferred to the United States. 

A celebrated "witch tree" of the natives and 
sixteen totem poles, several of which are ex- 
amples of the best work of the savage genealo- 
gists of the Alaska clans, stand sentry like 
along the beach. 

The Tumacacori 

The Tumacacori National Monument in 
Santa Cruz County, Arizona, was created to 
preserve a very ancient Spanish mission ruin 
dating, it is thought, from the latter part of the 
sixteenth century. It was built by Jesuit priests 
from Spain and operated by them for over a J 
century. 

After the year 1769 priests belonging to the | 
order of Franciscan Fathers took charge of j 
the mission and repaired its crumbling walls, 



NATIONAL PARKS IN EMBRYO 325 

maintaining peaceable possession for about 
sixty years, until driven out by Apache Indians. 

Gran Quivira 

The Gran Quivira has long been recognized 
as one of the most important of the earliest 
Spanish church or mission ruins in the South- 
west. It is in Central Mexico. Near by are 
numerous Indian pueblo ruins, occupying an 
area many acres in extent, which also, with 
sufficient land to protect them, was reserved. 
The outside dimensions of the church ruin, 
which is in the form of a short-arm cross, are 
about forty-eight by one hundred and forty 
feet, and its walls are from four to six feet 
thick and from twelve to twenty feet high, 

Navajo 

This tract encloses three interesting and ex- 
tensive prehistoric pueblos or cliff-dwelling 
ruins in an excellent state of preservation. 
These are known as the Betata Kin, the Keet 
Seel, and Inscription House. 

Inscription House Ruin, on Navajo Creek, -is 
regarded as extraordinary, not only because of 
its good state of preservation, but because of 



326 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

the fact that upon the walls of its rooms are 
found inscriptions written in Spanish by early 
explorers and plainly dated 1661. 



XIV 

EQUIPMENT FOR THE NATIONAL PARK 
VISITOR 

It is not with any intention of being epigram- 
matic that I cite as a first requisite to the 
proper enjoyment and appreciation of the na- 
tional parks a suitable mental attitude. Go 
with a light heart and an open mind. Be pre- 
pared to admire, to wonder, to ponder. Leave 
your adjectives at home; they probably need 
a rest from even ordinary everyday use. Cer- 
tainly few of them are ever the same after a 
trip through any one of the national parks. 

Clothing 

In addition to the clothing required in trav- 
eling to the park, a serviceable outing suit that 
will withstand rough usage should be car- 
ried ; and a change of heavy underwear will 
often justify the space it occupies in one's lug- 
327 



328 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

gage. A sweater and a suitable outing hat 
are essential. Stout laced boots and heavy 
woolen socks should be taken, even if one does 
not expect to do any climbing. Every one 
who visits the national parks finds it necessary 
to do a certain amount of walking, and low 
or thin-soled shoes will be found very unsat- 
isfactory. Calks or hob-nails are often an ad- 
vantage as footwear is apt to develop slippery 
soles in the woods. 

Riding breeches, preferably of khaki, and 
puttees. are necessary if any horseback trips 
are to be made. Women who ride should re- 
member that side saddles are a rarity in the 
West and provide divided skirts and leggings. 

Incidentals 

A good pair of field glasses is a distinct aid 
to the enjoyment of mountain scenery and the 
study of the bird and animal life. 

A compact folding film camera with a lib- 
eral supply of films should by no means be 
omitted. Plates are too heavy, bulky and fra- 
gile to be easily carried, and the loading of 
plateholders presents many difficulties. 

Fishing tackle may be hired, but the de- 



EQUIPMENT FOR THE PARK VISITOR 329 

votee of this sport will wish to provide his 
own. 

Liquor is not sold in any of the national 
parks, so it is advisable for the traveler to 
carry a flask of brandy for medicinal purposes 
in case of need. 

For the rest, one should use his or her own 
judgment, keeping in mind that the maximum 
of luggage often makes for the minimum of 
enjoyment 



XV 

CONCERNING PARK REGULATIONS 

For his own good and for the good of ail 
those who are to enjoy the national parks, cer- 
tain slight inhibitions are imposed on the visi- 
tor. Many of the rules and regulations are 
of no significance to travelers whose good 
breeding makes unnecessary a stronger de- 
terrent from such peccadillos as the defacing 
of the natural wonders of the parks and carv- 
ing initials to remind succeeding visitors that 
one G. D. F. or S. X. W. was among those 
present. 

The more important rules that apply to prac- 
tically all the parks are as follows : 

Hunting or killing, wounding, or capturing 
any bird or wild animal, except dangerous ani- 
mals when necessary to prevent them from 
destroying life or inflicting an injury, is pro- 
hibited. The outfits, including guns, traps, 
teams, horses, or means of transportation used 
330 



CONCERNING PARK REGULATIONS 33* 

by persons engaged in hunting, killing, trap- 
ping, ensnaring, or capturing such birds or 
wild animals, or in possession of game killed 
in the park under other circumstances than 
prescribed above, will be forfeited to the 
United States, except in cases where it is 
shown by satisfactory evidence that the outfit 
is not the property of the person or persons 
violating this regulation, and the actual owner 
thereof was not a party to such violation. 
Firearms will only be permitted in the park on 
written permission from the superintendent 
thereof. On arrival at the first station of 
the park, guard parties having firearms, traps, 
nets, seines, or explosives will turn them over 
to the sergeant in charge of the station, taking 
his receipt for them. They will be returned 
to the owners on leaving the park. 

Fishing with nets, seines, traps, or by the 
use of drugs or explosives, or in any other way 
than with hook and line is prohibited. Fish- 
ing for purposes of merchandise or profit is 
forbidden. Fishing may be prohibited by 
order of the superintendent of the park in any 
of the waters of the park, or limited therein 
to any specified season of the year, until other- 



332 *THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

wise ordered by the Secretary of the Interior. 
All fish less than 8 inches in length should at 
once be returned to the water with the least 
damage possible to the fish. Fish that are to 
be retained must be at once killed by a blow 
on the back of the head or by thrusting a 
knife or other sharp instrument into the head. 
No person shall catch more than 20 fish in 
one day. Licenses for fishing should be pro- 
cured from the state fish and game warden. 

The greatest care must be exercised to in- 
sure the complete extinction of all camp fires 
before they are abandoned. All ashes and un- 
buriied bits of wood must, when practicable, 
be thoroughly soaked with water. Where 
fires are built in the neighborhood of decayed 
logs, particular attention must be directed to 
the extinguishment of fires in the decaying 
mold. Fire may be extinguished where 
water is not available by a complete covering 
of earth, well packed down. 

Especial care should be taken that no lighted 
match, cigar, or cigarette is dropped in any 
grass, twigs, leaves, or tree mold. 

No camp will be made at a less distance 
than 100 feet from any traveled road. Blank- 



CONCERNING PARK REGULATIONS 333 

ets, clothing, hammocks, or any other article 
liable to frighten teams must not be hung at 
a nearer distance than this to the road. The 
same rule applies to temporary stops, such as 
for feeding horses or for taking luncheon. 

Many successive parties camp on the same 
sites during the season, and camp grounds 
must be thoroughly cleaned before they are 
abandoned. Tin cans must be flattened and, 
with bottles, cast-off clothing, and all other 
debris, must be deposited in a pit provided 
for the purpose. When camps are made in 
unusual places, where pits may not be pro- 
vided, all refuse must be hidden where it will 
not be offensive to the eye. 

The greatest care must be exercised by per- 
sons using bicycles. On meeting a team the 
rider must stop and stand at side of road be- 
tween the bicycle and the team — the outer 
side of the road if on a grade or curve. In 
passing a team from the rear the rider should 
learn from the driver if his horses are liable 
to frighten, in which case the driver should 
halt and the rider dismount and walk past, 
keeping between the bicycle and the team. 

Dogs and cats are not permitted in the park. 



334 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

Drivers of vehicles of any description, when 
overtaken by other vehicles traveling at a faster 
rate of speed, shall, if requested to do so, turn 
out and give the latter free and unobstructed 
passageway. 

Vehicles in passing each other must give full 
half of the roadway. This applies to freight 
outfits as well as any other. 

Racing on the park roads is strictly pro- 
hibited. 

Freight, baggage, and heavy camping out- 
fits on sidehill grades throughout the park will 
take the outer side of the road while being 
passed by passenger vehicles in either direc- 
tion. 

In making a temporary halt on the road for 
any purpose all teams and vehicles will be 
pulled to one side of the road far enough to 
leave a free and unobstructed passageway. 
No stops on the road for luncheon or for 
camp purposes will be permitted. A team at- 
tached to a vehicle will not be left without the 
custody of a person competent to control it; 
a team detached from a vehicle will be securely 
tied to a tree or other fixed object before be- 
ing left alone. 



CONCERNING PARK REGULATIONS 335 

Special Park Rules 
Yellowstone 

It is forbidden to remove or injure the sedi- 
ments or incrustations around the geysers, hot 
springs, or steam vents ; or to deface the same 
by written inscriptions or otherwise; or to 
throw any substance into the springs or gey- 
ser vents ; or to injure or disturb in any man- 
ner or to carry off any of the mineral deposits, 
specimens, natural curiosities, or wonders 
within the park. 

It is forbidden to ride or drive upon any 
of the geyser or hot-spring formations. 

No person will be allowed on any forma- 
tions after sunset without a guide. 

Automobiles and motorcycles are now per- 
mitted in the park. There are important rules 
and regulations for their use, and a copy of 
these should be procured from the National 
Parks Service, Washington, D. C. 

Yosemite 

The taking of rare specimens of plants, 
flowers, shrubs, ferns, etc., is not permitted, 



336 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

but by special permission of the acting super- 
intendent a limited quantity of common va- 
rieties may be used for the adornment of 
dining-room tables. 

No one is allowed to throw anything into 
Mirror Lake, thereby causing ripples and dis- 
turbing the reflection. 

Camping in the Mariposa, Merced or Tuo- 
lumne Big Tree Groves is not permitted. 

Foot tourists on trails, if seated while ani- 
mals are passing them, should remain quiet 
lest they frighten the animals and cause acci- 
dents to others. The making of short cuts on 
trails is prohibited because of damage to trails 
by so doing, and of likelihood of dislodging 
rocks, which in coursing down might kill or 
injure some one on a lower level. 

No person shall ride or drive faster than a 
walk over any of the Government bridges 
within the park. Riding or driving at night, 
except on the floor of the Yosemite Valley, is 
forbidden. 

Motorcycles are now permitted in the park 
as well as automobiles, both subject to the 
rules and regulations of the National Parks 
Service. 



CONCERNING PARK REGULATIONS 337 

Mesa Verde 

i. It is forbidden to injure or disturb, except 
as herein provided, any of the mineral de- 
posits, natural curiosities, wonders, ruins, and 
other works and relics of prehistoric or primi- 
tive man, on Government lands within the 
park, or the ruins, and other works or relics 
of prehistoric man, on Government lands, 
within 5 miles of the boundaries of the 
park. 

2. Permits .for the examination of ruins, the 
excavation of archaeological sites, and the 
gathering of objects of antiquity, will, upon 
application to the Secretary of the Interior 
through the superintendent of the park, be 
granted to accredited representatives of repu- 
table museums, universities, colleges, or other 
recognized scientific or educational institu- 
tions, with a view to increasing the knowledge 
of such objects and aiding the general ad- 
vancement of archaeological science, under the 
conditions and restrictions contained in pres- 
ent or future regulations promulgated by the 
Secretary of the Interior. 

3. Persons bearing archaeological permits 



3 2 8 THE NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA 

from the department may be permitted to en- 
ter the ruins unaccompanied after presenting 
their credentials to the superintendent or other 
park officer. Persons without archaeological 
permits who wish to visit and enter the ruins 
shall in all cases be accompanied by a park 
ranger, or other person, duly authorized by the 
superintendent. 

4. The superintendent is authorized, in his 
discretion, to close any ruin on Government 
lands within the park or the 5-mile limit, to 
visitors, when it shall appear to Him that en- 
trance thereto would be dangerous to visitors, 
or might result in injury to walls or other in- 
secure portions thereof, or during repairs. 

THE END. 



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§ n= 

j Southern Pacific j 

I Offers you direct route to | 

| Yosemite and Crater Lake I 

| National Parks j 

I and to | 

J Lake Tahoe, Mt. Shasta, Del Monte | 

I Paso Robles, Santa Barbara j 

| as well as to j 

I ROOSEVELT DAM I 

| and I 

I CLIFF DWELLINGS 1 

On the old Apache Trail I 

I The trip from Globe to Phoenix, Arizona, | 

| has been described as the most jf 

| wonderful in the world | 

Be sure your tickets read | 

J Southern Pacific Sunset Route j 

g For literature address 1 

| 366 Broadway Metropolitan Bank Bldg. | 

1 New York New Orleans, La. 1 

1 Southern Pacific Bldg. Flood Building 1 

Houston San Francisco | 

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Glacier 
National Park 



The Great Northern Railway- 
has prepared a number of 
handsomely illustrated book- 
lets descriptive of Glacier 
National Park, its location 
and scenery, modes of trans- 
portation, etc., and contain- 
ing data and maps in colors 
invaluable to the intending 
visitor. 

This Glacier National Park 
Library will be sent free up- 
on application to the under- 
signed. 



H. A. NOBLE, Gen. Pass. Agent 
St. Paul, Minn. 




Remember "See America First" means See Glacier 
National Park on tht Great Northern Railway. 



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| The North American Alps | 

| Canadian Rockies | 

I Mount ROBSON Route 1 

= n 

1 As the Steel of the Grand Trunk Pacific | 

| has penetrated the Canadian Rocky Moun- a 

| tain Range, through the Yellowhead Pass, | 

| the Railway has opened up one of the i 

| most interesting territories on the Ameri- a 

I can Continent, from a scenic standpoint as | 

1 well as from the Alpine climbers' view. I 

| One hundred miles of continuous moun- 1 

| ' tain scenery, with gigantic peaks rising on | 

| all sides to heights of from eight thousand § 

| to fourteen thousand feet, are offered to | 

| those who desire new fields to explore. I 

| Great mountains are on every hand, but | 

| above all stands Mount Robson, "a giant | 

| amongst giants and immeasurably su- g 

| preme." | 

Jasper Park, Alberta and Mount 

Robson Park, British Columbia | 

| REACHED DIRECT BY | 

| The Grand Trunk Pacific 

| A handsome publication, entitled "The | 

| North American Alps," embodying most | 

| interesting data regarding the new region, | 

| has been issued by the Grand Trunk Pa- § 

| cific Railway, and copies may be had free | 
j for the asking. Write for a copy. 

G. T. BELL, Pass. Traffic Mgr., Montreal 
W. P. HINTON, Asst. Pass. Traffic Mgr., Montreal 
| W. E. DUPEROW, Asst. Gen. Pass. Agt., Winnipeg 

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I ESTABLISHED 1813 1 





JWTMIIC^T) 
^mtkmen'5 JJPurtiishutg (phw&jfc 

MADISON AVENUE COR. FORTY-FOURTH STREET 
NEW YORK 

Telephone Murray Hill 8800 

I00TH ANNIVERSARY 
APRIL, 1918 

FOR THE TRAVELER: 

Complete Outfits Ready-made or 
to Order 
Steamer Rugs and Holdalls 
Special Light-weight Trunks 
Collapsible Soiled Linen Bags 
Dressing Cases with only the 
necessary fittings 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue 
^ *2L and Centenary Booklet 

UNIFORMS FOR OFFICERS IN THE | 
SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES j 

BOSTON SALES • OrFICES NEWPORT SALES-OrFICE9 

TUCMONTCOB. BOYLBTON STSCCT 220 BCLLCVUC AVENUt 

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




003 449 788 6 



